irish medic

irish medic

New Member
Whilst on holidays last week & whilst driving up a mountain road, the bloody radiator blew. Cracked open the whole length across the top, blew a hole in the soundproofing etc. Steam started coming from under the bonnet but the guage didn't go all the way up & no red warning light on either. After an hour of leaving it cool down (1500 ft up this road) & with the family I board, i filled up with water & coasted back down to a local garage (luckily enough at the bottom of the road). He put a temporary seal (fibreglass) across the top of the radio & told me to leave the expansion cap loose until i got home (157miles). Obviously I checked the water level on a very frequent basis on the return journey.
My mechanic (foreman at main dealer) ordered a new radiator & is fitting it on monday.

It used about 2 litres of water on the return journey (had the hot air on the whole way back - wife wasn't too happy).

No signs of the white sludge on oil dipstick & no sign of any bubbles in the expansion bottle when running.

Would it be safe to say that I haven't done any damage to the head/block??

I've read the many threads on this subject already but just hoping for the best.
 
good to hear you've no sludge on dipstick or bubbles in the tank........sounds like she'll be ok.......not so sure about the car though :D

Keep a close eye and your fingers crossed.......hopefully you've been lucky
 
Thanks mate. I've stopped driving it for the moment anyway just to be sure. Really don't want to be topping up before every journey. Now all i have to do is sort out the front passenger door lock which has stopped working & i'll be a happy camper again.
 
looks like you took some good steps there buddy. by the sounds of it should be fine. the radiators are notorious for splitting. a combination of bad design and the plastic getting brittle after time. when its back on the road just keep an eye for bubbles and sludge. also on a normal handy drive youd expect the needle to only be around 10-11 o clock position, gunning it at 12 o clock, if it starts running 12 o colock position all the time id be cautios and get a pressure test done.
 
Hey P, longtime no speak :). I had to rip all the sound proofing attached to the bonnet off that day. By any chance do any of your scrapped one have this still attached to their bonnets ?.
 
irish medic said:
Hey P, longtime no speak :). I had to rip all the sound proofing attached to the bonnet off that day. By any chance do any of your scrapped one have this still attached to their bonnets ?.
Click to expand...

hey buddy,

i have 1 breaker left and im sure its still there, only thing is i moved to Wexford. you not passing are you?? :D
 
irish medic said:
Whilst on holidays last week & whilst driving up a mountain road, the bloody radiator blew. Cracked open the whole length across the top, blew a hole in the soundproofing etc. Steam started coming from under the bonnet but the guage didn't go all the way up & no red warning light on either. After an hour of leaving it cool down (1500 ft up this road) & with the family I board, i filled up with water & coasted back down to a local garage (luckily enough at the bottom of the road). He put a temporary seal (fibreglass) across the top of the radio & told me to leave the expansion cap loose until i got home (157miles). Obviously I checked the water level on a very frequent basis on the return journey.
My mechanic (foreman at main dealer) ordered a new radiator & is fitting it on monday.

It used about 2 litres of water on the return journey (had the hot air on the whole way back - wife wasn't too happy).

No signs of the white sludge on oil dipstick & no sign of any bubbles in the expansion bottle when running.

Would it be safe to say that I haven't done any damage to the head/block??

I've read the many threads on this subject already but just hoping for the best.
Click to expand...

I reckon the fibreglass would have been more use on the radiator:rolleyes: you wouldn't have used so much water:)
Good luck, I hope it's not the head:D
 
Hi there currently had the same problem only mine was being revved for emissions test in the MOT and it blew up and split along the top of the radiator....:attention:

At present much swearing is going on to remove radiator :mil6:and am hoping too that it is not the head.... anyone want a p38 with new gearbox, and air suspension ??
 
@ data, thanks for pointing out my typo (bloody iPhone) :)

Got the new radiator finally fitted tonight. Going to see how it goes over the next few days
 
my radiator should be here tomorrow and the lovely [ i have to say that !] OH will fit it for me whilst i swan around fence judging...
@ P38 Ireland .... at this rate i may just throw it at you ....:biggrin1:
 
this is exactly what happened to me whilst on the way to bavaria, split accross the top of the radiator, but mine did overheat and the light did come on. but i ended up being towed to the local land rover garage, after a bit of argueing (me telling them to repair the radiator) they ended up changing the radiator, water pump, thermostat and the expansion tank cap (1200 euro) no need to say i wasn't happy, but since then it has run like a dream, and they did clean the car very well too
 
ash_g said:
this is exactly what happened to me whilst on the way to bavaria, split accross the top of the radiator, but mine did overheat and the light did come on. but i ended up being towed to the local land rover garage, after a bit of argueing (me telling them to repair the radiator) they ended up changing the radiator, water pump, thermostat and the expansion tank cap (1200 euro) no need to say i wasn't happy, but since then it has run like a dream, and they did clean the car very well too
Click to expand...

€1,200 WTF thats insane!! rad is €150 max, pump €20, thermostat €60, expansion cap €15 where did the other €900+ go?? thats complete madness.
 
HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! radiator arrived .... but without blanks for automatic... just 2 dustcaps over the pipe ends ... so yet another one arrives today
 
Last edited:
Right chaps ... new radiator is in , filled up with water to check if head is ok but radiator is boiling at the top not lower down , and heaters in car won't work, do we have an air lock somewhere or is the thermostat shot ? or do you have any other suggestions .... and no P38 Ireland i am not chucking it yet !!!
 
SADDLESORE said:
Right chaps ... new radiator is in , filled up with water to check if head is ok but radiator is boiling at the top not lower down , and heaters in car won't work, do we have an air lock somewhere or is the thermostat shot ? or do you have any other suggestions .... and no P38 Ireland i am not chucking it yet !!!
Click to expand...

Petrol or diesel? If it's diesel, your new rad may be faulty due to a missing baffle in the centre of the header or you have an airlock.
 
Thanks Datatek, i'm quietly letting the blue air settle at the mo.. must tread carefully as not only is whats left grey but most of his hair has gone and i'm worried as to what he might pullout instead... plus he is spending a lot of time looking at japanese :eek: cars online ... when this is sorted there is the fuel leak to fix and see if it will pass its MOT this time without any explosions.. this is going to take a lot of payment in kind !!!:hug:

ps it's the 2.5 diesel automatic
 
@ SADDLESORE

to make sure its not air locked..........

top up the level to normal, leave the expansion open, rev engine to 2000rpm for 10-15 seconds, go back to the rad and keep squeezing the top and bottom hoses to help circulate the water and push out and air,

let us know how you get on.
 
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