wiltshire landyman said:
sounds like youre having some fun paul..
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Lots mate, thanks to your donation of said engine ;) How's the 300 doing btw?


Head is now off, pistons 1 & 2 have a little surface rust, but that was to be expected, carbon build up on all of them plus the valves, other than that it looks in good condition :)

Next up is to strip the head and clean, then the sump and oil pump removal.

Once i have the crankshaft gear off i'll be stripping it down to the pistons so i can replace the rings as cylinder 2,3 & 4 have alot of oil on the glowplugs and i'll expect the crankshaft an internals at that point. If all is oki then it's time to rebuild her, that's where the fun begins :D
 
PaulWilde said:
Lots mate, thanks to your donation of said engine ;) How's the 300 doing btw?


Head is now off, pistons 1 & 2 have a little surface rust, but that was to be expected, carbon build up on all of them plus the valves, other than that it looks in good condition :)

Next up is to strip the head and clean, then the sump and oil pump removal.

Once i have the crankshaft gear off i'll be stripping it down to the pistons so i can replace the rings as cylinder 2,3 & 4 have alot of oil on the glowplugs and i'll expect the crankshaft an internals at that point. If all is oki then it's time to rebuild her, that's where the fun begins :D
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300 was a lot of balls ache to make it fit..alot of adaption work is req..

let me know your findings with the 200 would be interested wot you may or may not find when its apart..it ran really well just the heavy breathing issue...rich
 
wiltshire landyman said:
300 was a lot of balls ache to make it fit..alot of adaption work is req..

let me know your findings with the 200 would be interested wot you may or may not find when its apart..it ran really well just the heavy breathing issue...rich
Click to expand...

I saw a few threads regarding it, how does it run though, much difference to the 200?

So far the oil skew gear bearing has a little play in it, but the gearing is sound, a little oil in the timing case and water ingress in there as well, but nothing you wouldn't expect, but it has caused a headache getting the crankshaft gear off ;)

As for breathing heavily, nothing found so far but the piston rings are going to need to be changed ( oil on the glowplugs ) plus a big build up of carbon on the piston crowns & valves, the waterways on the head & main block are a little gunked up as well, all this isn't bad for a 90k+ engine of nearly 20 years old though :D
 
abit of wear on the rocker seats plus broken metal which looks like the small semicircle washers that sit in the recess, if this was a problem before i stripped it ( it's possible i could of broke them, but i doubt it, fragile as they are ) then it would cause an upset in the rocker shaft which in turn would cause an issue with valve seating on each end ( wear showing on each end )

Not sure if it warrants a new head, will look into it and i'll post some pics from my phone as still haven't got a camera lead yet :rolleyes:
 
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I recognise that pic :) , forgot it was still on the forum lol :rolleyes: , have you taken out the cam followers yet ? if not take the tappet slide out first - then the roller - then the coller ( minus locating bolt in the block ) . I remember the first time I played around with these engines , I removed the coller first then had to fish out the cam roller :( :doh:

Hows the bores looking ? are they shiney ? well you know what to look for being a bike mech :) .
have a look for that cam lead :) we want piccys :D :p
 
Parts of the metal were the washes from the rocker bolts so nothing to be worried about there.

Removed the sump....forgot to drain the rest of the oil....muppet ;)

Bores aren't shiny at all, will look Into rebore If possible.
 
Thats not too bad then about the washers :) . Can you still see the cross hatching then if the bores arnt shiny ? , you could prob get away with glaze busting the bores and new rings !! best way to check is with a bore guage to see if its viable or not .

I take it you've got the 200 engine manuel ? , as that was a big help the first time around for me :) .
 
No i haven't got the manual, having it would help as to get the pistons out they have to go beyond the wear ring around the top of the bore, only way i can see is to tap the base of the piston from underneath with abit of wood and a hammer to push them out, this will wreck the rings ( replacing anyway ).

Can't see the cross hatching at all, will try and get a calliper to measure the bores but given the coloration of the bores, a rebore is probably best ( more money! )

If you could have a look in it for removal mate, i'd appreciate it, don't wanna go hitting nowt in there before i'm certain ( tbh i can't see any other way of it working without removing the crank and dropping the whole lot but that's gonna be a pain to refit)
 
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Went ahead and removed all 4 pistons ( cant wait to get some pics uploaded, makes the thread more interesting! ), the top ring on 3 of them fell apart on removal, 2 of the pistons have discolouration in between the rings ( 2&3 cylinder ) which coincides with the glowplugs being oily. Had a better look at the bores ( can see straight through now ) and i'm going to go with glazing them for now and see how it fairs.

Crossroads now, do i rebore and replace the pistons at a large price or do i take the cheaper & possibly good enough route and glaze n replace the rings?

Meh, it's late, i need some sleep, not every Saturday night you strip down a 200TDi ;)
 
Typically after i locked up last night and sat down with a coffee i get a call from work to do a emergency job, went to bed at 4am in the end :(

In the clear light of day had a good mooch around the pistons, couple of pics:

Piston 1 and conrod, discolouration between the rings, although this is possible mild water damage due to it left outside for a few weeks with the manifold off:





Piston 2 again shows water damage but the piston also shows carbon deposits inbetween the rings, a sign of worn rings:




Piston 3 shows signs of carbon build up between the rings again:




Piston 4 shows water ingress again, to be expected:




3 of the pistons had cracked top rings, all lower and mid rings seemed to be in good nick, so i'm hoping a glaze and new rings will solve any issues as new pistons and rebores just makes the whole project too expensive.

Couple more pics, 1 of the flywheel casing removed and one of the crankshaft in situ:





The benefit of having it stripped this far down is at least i can pick the damn thing up and move it about abit ;)


And lastly, the gold colour is a standard block that has changed colour i believe?
 
Right decision made today, going to glaze the cylinders, replace the rings & all seals, timing belt & gaskets etc, so the cost is apprx £250 to rebuild.

Will be purchasing all items over the next few weeks, in the meantime i'm cleaning and painting various parts ready for assembly.
 
I was waiting for someone else to say it before me, but no bugger did! :eek:

Anyway, make sure your camera is nicely charged up - it'll be good to see some pics of a 200tdi getting a proper seeing to (mine's lucky if it gets an oil and filter change!)
 
PaulWilde said:
I love having you around to correct me :D ;)
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Dont you mean annoy ya :D :p . . . . .

that'll be a nice job for ya paul :D , Lap the valves anoll to make her like new :) but dont buy your head bolts from Paddocks - brother did and tbh they didnt look the best .....
 
Not sure if i need to, headbolts are fine for a few times re use ( 4-5 i think ) but may do so.

Just ordered the cylinder honing set thingy, off into to town to pick up some mr muscle oven cleaner for the pistons although this has to be the first pistons i've seen with such a large indent in them, kinda odd and a pain to clean...
 
Right cleaning time and first up was Piston 4, covered in carbon and 3rd ring damaged, it was time to remove the other 2 and get to work with the oven cleaner.

Using it in 2-3minute stages , spray on the first time to get rid of the main build up, then a few goes afterwards and scrub it with some plastic nail brush's.



Some of the carbon is seriously stuck on and a quick scrub with a plastic scourer only produced some scuff marks, although that is the least of the issues with this one.

Yup a nice valve indent in the top:



There is still some stubborn carbon build up in the ring seats, but a little trick with an old ring will sort that:



Given the relevant damage to this piston, there are some dents n scratch's along the body too ( not me! ) i may just bin it and go for a replacement, i haven't started on the others yet and tbh, this one had less carbon build up.
 
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Ive seen and used pistons a lot worse than that mate :) , as long as there not cracked etc and the ring to land tolerence ( checked with new rings ) are good then Id use them again . I see the pistons are standard size too so if the bores are worn at least you can go for a rebore . That is if you want to push the boat out that far ?? .
 
No not going for a rebore atm, but until the cylinders are honed and new rings are fitted, it remains to be seen.

The valve damage is evident on another one, but it is old scoring, well below the current carbon build up, plus checking the head gasket, it's a 3 hole fitted, which if i'm not mistaken is the largest gasket thickness to be fitted, ie after a head skim. If this is the case then it's going to be a careful rebuild as i can't afford to get the head re skimmed although it is in good true shape.
 
Working on piston 3 atm, some real thick carbon on the edge and top which is being a bugger to get off but i'm suffering from man flu atm, so feeling like **** ;)

Couple of pics, before:





& after, although still needs some work:



 
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