oil dripper
Well-Known Member
i ended up borrowin a Snap-on extractor to get mine off as anything less was failing/twisting miserably
Badger
Well-Known Member
Dont even think of it - last guy that did that needed a noo timing cover as well
I was as gentle as i could be given the stress, the wood will compact quicker than the pulley cover cracking, but i understand what you mean
Badger
Well-Known Member
Blow torch mate, for a minute on the last go, i'll have to make up a beefier puller of some description
Either that or strap the engine to a trailer and tie the tow rope to the pulley and go for a spin
sypher
Well-Known Member
rope will prb snap first lol , you might have to bite the bullet and go for broke ( new CVD ) heat the bugger right up and give it a go . the only prob with blow torches is they dont heat big lumps of steel up fast enough so it expands - they tend to heat everything up at the same rate .
Or get some thicker steel and longer bolts Paul like this
.Or get some thicker steel and longer bolts Paul like this
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Badger
Well-Known Member
Finally got the fooker out! Used a Teng tool puller which happened to be around a mates house, which i knew existed but didn't think it would work.
I had to lock the crank again and wrapped the whole thing up in a towel as i was expecting something to give, but it didn't
I had to lock the crank again and wrapped the whole thing up in a towel as i was expecting something to give, but it didn't
sypher
Well-Known Member
Nice one , I take it the end of the crank is rusty , as its off look for cracks in the pulley where the seal goes and where the keyway is . My bros had a hairline crack in it .
Clean up the end of the crank so its nice and shiney then coate in WD , your next task after you got the timing chest off ( watch for siezed bolts as the fookers Will snap off ) is to see if the cam belt gear on the crank will oome off ....... thats bastard number 2 - the rest is easy .
, I take it the end of the crank is rusty , as its off look for cracks in the pulley where the seal goes and where the keyway is . My bros had a hairline crack in it . Clean up the end of the crank so its nice and shiney then coate in WD , your next task after you got the timing chest off ( watch for siezed bolts as the fookers Will snap off ) is to see if the cam belt gear on the crank will oome off ....... thats bastard number 2 - the rest is easy
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Badger
Well-Known Member
I'm looking to remove the belt and the injector pump anorl to give it a good clean around that side of the engine, any tips for keeping the timing correct after removing all the gearing? If i line it all up and remove it without spinning owt i should be fine, but the injector pump requires locking in place, chances of the injector pump staying in the correct position after i remove the gear has to minute....
sypher
Well-Known Member
if you look at the side of the pump ( Ill find a pic in a mo ) theres a 10mm bolt with an arrow shapped washer under it keep this in mind . when shes on TDI and pinned through the slot at the front of the pulley 9.5mm drill bit , remove the 3 pully retaining bolts and remove the pulley . As your worryed about the timming pin falling out and it turning you can slacken off that 10mm on the pump and remove the arrowed shapped washer - then Nip the 10 mm back up ( this friction locks the pump shaft ) , you can then remove your timing pin .
Just dont loose that washer or attempt to turn the pump as it'll score the hell out of the pump shaft . easy .
, remove the 3 pully retaining bolts and remove the pulley . As your worryed about the timming pin falling out and it turning you can slacken off that 10mm on the pump and remove the arrowed shapped washer - then Nip the 10 mm back up ( this friction locks the pump shaft ) , you can then remove your timing pin .Just dont loose that washer or attempt to turn the pump as it'll score the hell out of the pump shaft . easy
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Badger
Well-Known Member
if you look at the side of the pump ( Ill find a pic in a mo ) theres a 10mm bolt with an arrow shapped washer under it keep this in mind . when shes on TDI and pinned through the slot at the front of the pulley 9.5mm drill bit
Just dont loose that washer or attempt to turn the pump as it'll score the hell out of the pump shaft . easy
Sweet trick, that'll do it, will check it out tomorrow mate, cheers Steve
Badger
Well-Known Member
Clean up the end of the crank so its nice and shiny then coat in WD , your next task after you got the timing chest off ( watch for siezed bolts as the fookers Will snap off ) is to see if the cam belt gear on the crank will come off ....... that's bastard number 2 - the rest is easy
Bastard number 2 is well n truly being a bastard
Gap between the case and gear is too small to get the puller in there coupled with the distance between the bolt head and the gear being too long for my puller, it's a right pain
sypher
Well-Known Member
Bastard number 2 is well n truly being a bastard
Time to get the heat out again Paul ... btw heres that pic of the pump locking bolt ( wasnt arrowed - getting mixed up with different IPs ) but anyway here it is on mine looking from underneath . You dont have to fully remove the bolt as the spacing washer is slotted
.... sorry **** pic , cam phone . 
Badger
Well-Known Member
Yup i got that Steve, cheers btw is the bolt supposed to go all the way in or sit a few mm proud...i know it's friction locking but still....
As for the crankshaft gear, i did some fiddling and fooked if the damn thing is coming off, i had grinded some of the feet on the puller so i could get it inbetween the casing and gear, but it broke at that point before moving anything ( i figured it was a gamble )
How much heat can i use? i don't wanna start damaging the crankshaft internally...is glowing red too much?? (not that i've got to that stage! )
Usual soaking hasn't worked, i even went on a limb and bought some shock spray but that did fook all, hammers, blowtorch's, pullers with clamps on, you name it i've tried it, looking at the crankshaft & gear there is no sign of a difference in the 2, ie they look like they're one piece of metal.
Will upload some pics when i find the cable for the camera.
btw is the bolt supposed to go all the way in or sit a few mm proud...i know it's friction locking but still....As for the crankshaft gear, i did some fiddling and fooked if the damn thing is coming off, i had grinded some of the feet on the puller so i could get it inbetween the casing and gear, but it broke at that point before moving anything ( i figured it was a gamble )
How much heat can i use? i don't wanna start damaging the crankshaft internally...is glowing red too much?? (not that i've got to that stage! )
Usual soaking hasn't worked, i even went on a limb and bought some shock spray but that did fook all, hammers, blowtorch's, pullers with clamps on, you name it i've tried it, looking at the crankshaft & gear there is no sign of a difference in the 2, ie they look like they're one piece of metal.
Will upload some pics when i find the cable for the camera.
sypher
Well-Known Member
Hey paul , Yes the bolt will stand off a bit from the pump body ( I know I keep saying it , but ffs dont forget you locked it that way ) .
I wouldnt go too mad with the heat as far as glowing because its surounded by Ally , unless you make up a heat shield of sorts . There about £25 for new ones ( ERR1642 ) so if it gets to that point and you havent damaged it already !!! Id get the grinder out and weaken then hell out of it then a couple of good blows with a hammer and chisel and off it pops .
You should see some threads in the face of the pulley for a puller ( unless there mashed up ) you might get a bite on !!!!! What ya need is to heat the thing up quick with oxy and pull it off that way , either way its got to come off to get to the seal behind it etc .
Come to think of it the whole case might just clear over the gear ???? Im sure one of the lads here will comferm if it does or not coz I cant remember . Might be worth a try tho as you can get to it a lot better with the case out the way .
( I know I keep saying it , but ffs dont forget you locked it that way ) . I wouldnt go too mad with the heat as far as glowing because its surounded by Ally
, unless you make up a heat shield of sorts . There about £25 for new ones ( ERR1642 ) so if it gets to that point and you havent damaged it already !!! Id get the grinder out and weaken then hell out of it then a couple of good blows with a hammer and chisel and off it pops . You should see some threads in the face of the pulley for a puller ( unless there mashed up ) you might get a bite on !!!!! What ya need is to heat the thing up quick with oxy and pull it off that way , either way its got to come off to get to the seal behind it etc .
Come to think of it the whole case might just clear over the gear ???? Im sure one of the lads here will comferm if it does or not coz I cant remember
. Might be worth a try tho as you can get to it a lot better with the case out the way .
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Badger
Well-Known Member
I tried the case over the gear, it doesn't as you have pointed out there are 3 threaded holes in the gear itself which i wasn't aware of, so off tomorrow to pick up a flywheel puller of some description to do the job
My hopes are up
Removed the oil skew gear to check for any internal issues on that side as this engine was ' breathing heavy ' according to WL, there is some excessive play in the bearing, about 3-4mm twisting left n right ( not on the wobble ) so will pick up a new bearing for that as well. The gearing on the ends is clean with a little discolouration to the metal, but not sure it'll warrant a replacement, will check prices first as it could prove to be a pain replacing it with the engine in at a later date.
as you have pointed out there are 3 threaded holes in the gear itself which i wasn't aware of, so off tomorrow to pick up a flywheel puller of some description to do the job My hopes are up
Removed the oil skew gear to check for any internal issues on that side as this engine was ' breathing heavy ' according to WL, there is some excessive play in the bearing, about 3-4mm twisting left n right ( not on the wobble ) so will pick up a new bearing for that as well. The gearing on the ends is clean with a little discolouration to the metal, but not sure it'll warrant a replacement, will check prices first as it could prove to be a pain replacing it with the engine in at a later date.
Badger
Well-Known Member
This one?
Mine looks like the one on the left thankfully, so i'm happy to just replace the bearing, now gotta find the part number
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
sounds like youre having some fun paul..
