right i had a steady day today,
how i left it
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once i was in the garage the first thing i realised was that i needed to install the turret retaining rings before fitting the front springs, so the high lift was dragged out to lift the chassis enough to locate the rings in the spring mounts, a fairly easy job that should have been done properly the first time but oh well.

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then i slid underneath and fitted the axle bump stops new ones all around.

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then i had a go at the steering box which had been removed as a complete assembly but on dragging it out to fit it i kinked one of the steel hoses and split it so that will need replacing with a new one, now it was broken it made sense to split it to ease reassembly and the steering box was installed.

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looking at the above pic shows the new front bumpstop and my steering ball joint that needs replacing

steering box

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once the steering box was in i had a go at fitting the engine, so i could get rid of the engine stand to free up some room in the garage.
on the stand

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in the chassis

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then i had some time left so decided to finish up the towbar just need to decide what type of fitting to fit on it.
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spreader plate

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decisions? :tea:
 
Lookin great mate. Wish i had taken the time to do it all from scratch and prep everything on the fly.

Gonna have one hell of a job to rust proof everything now!!
 
Boris 113 have you posted your method before?, i did some research on here before painting my chassis and came across that method and so i followed it only applying the red oxide between the etch and top coat, as i either read or was told that its not recommended to top coat directly after etch primer so used the red oxide to bridge between the two. either way i can't see it being much of a problem.
pics
i have already posted the t washed chassis pic and completely forgot to get one of it etched so onto the red oxide,

Yes I think I have done. Your chassis looks great, what top coat did you use? It's a scary moment when the T-wash colours all the new galv! I used hammerite special metals primer, one of the tiny tins did the whole chassis surprisingly :eek: The normal hammerite on top because I had a load of it in the shed already.

I was going to use red-oxide in between but the hammerite products are directly compatible according to the tin, however if it was another brand of paint then I would have done. I was also in a hurry and couldn't spare 2 days of painting/drying time...although considering the 90 still isn't done I could have in hindsight :doh: :rolleyes:

Keep up the good work! :D
 
Yes I think I have done. Your chassis looks great, what top coat did you use? It's a scary moment when the T-wash colours all the new galv! I used hammerite special metals primer, one of the tiny tins did the whole chassis surprisingly :eek: The normal hammerite on top because I had a load of it in the shed already.

I was going to use red-oxide in between but the hammerite products are directly compatible according to the tin, however if it was another brand of paint then I would have done. I was also in a hurry and couldn't spare 2 days of painting/drying time...although considering the 90 still isn't done I could have in hindsight :doh: :rolleyes:

Keep up the good work! :D

cheers for the encouragement, i know the feeling i think i should have given mine a second topcoat really. the paint I'm using is vapourmatic tractor enamel (kind off fitting really) I've used it quite a bit during the rebuild it goes on well either a brush or spraying can't comment on how long it lasts but we shall see.

got a bit more done tonight stripped down the ball joint on the drop arm seemed fairly easy using the britpart tool from paddocks but having never done one without it can't comment. started fitting the new one and going well until it came to fitting the large spring clip to retain the gaiter. not going to lie frustration kicked in and a gave up. the spring wouldn't seat properly i presumed that the retaining lip had broken off looking at the instructions and busters how to on here, but looking at the pic of mine on here it looks as though the old one is still in the groove(which is the outcome I'm hoping for) but i will progress with that further tomorrow. thanks guys :tea:
 
Great stuff mate you're now a Landrover man!!! Don't forget to install some anti theft stuff as well !! I've got the lot on my 90 alarm ,quick release steering wheel , dead switch etc !! Thieving scum out there!!!!!!!!
 
Immense! It will be a better than when it left Solihull to begin with!

How much has it cost to this stage?

Looks great.

Thanks chap..... I'm not gonna comment on the cost, got quite a scare last time i added up my receipts and invoices and thats without the chassis, so thats an area I'm going to stay clear of.
anyway having your 110 project you should have an idea of what it costs to do some fairly extensive work, you have done some great work on it by the way not got round to commenting yet.

and security wise i shall deal with that once its all together deffo a pedal lock contraption and disc lock for the wheering steel.:cool:
 
good news, got a delivery from richards today, the gearbox cross member and turret tops have arrived so got them fitted along with the front shocks but having trouble with the spacers and bushes so will continue with them tomorrow. sorted out the issue with the ball joint so got that fitted along with the rod and steering damper.
turret tops,

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gearbox crossmember a nightmare to fit, using a bottle jack to spread the chassis legs and the unnerving creak..... leaving this in plain galvanised i like the contrast in colour honestly, nothing to do with the hassle of dragging out the spray equipment;)

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finally the drop arm and steering gubbins may have to take the damper off for the moment seems a tad difficult to move around the garage with the damping resistance.

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looking at that crossmember think i may whip out the grinder and cut the excess thread off the bolts they look a little long.
:D thats all folks :p
 
:D Got a little done today started by mounting the rear tub which seems to fit ok just need to re drill the mounting holes, the seatbox on the other hand is a bigger issue not having a chassis when i put it together i took a gamble which hasn't paid off and the internal battery box fouls on the ns chassis rail and the trailing arm bracket so that needs sorting. the whereas the rest of the panels seem to fit fairly well.....sorry couldn't resist

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i know its all got to come off again but it reminds me i have a landy not just a pile of bits

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final colour

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once i had finished pratting about i got some work done, starting with setting the bulkhead spacing so i could get the door gap set.... i say set like its a 2 minute job i think it needs some sort off shims?, anyway how i left it this evening

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hope someone finds it interesting Sam:rolleyes:
 
hello people bit of an update....
spent a few hours in the garage today got the final bulkhead positioning sorted and bolted up and sorted the front mounts on the rear tub, the door gaps aren't great but from what i am told they weren't best new.
drivers

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passenger

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drivers front

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cleaned and sprayed the chassis brackets

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and the overall shot

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slowly making more room in the garage
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also got the steering column bolted up but the picture is terrible so please excuse that,
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:rolleyes: thanks
 
Had a play with the seat box today i put it together before i had the chassis, when i tried to install it, it fouled both the the chassis rail and the trailing arm chassis bracket. so a pretty big mistake but one i will learn from...do not assemble stuff without checking clearance.

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about 3cm so drilled all the rivets and pulled it out recut the hole and refitted in the correct position fits fine now

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i have come across a slight issue with my lack of space although the garage is plenty big enough it is lacking in height meaning i have minimum clearance...
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and thats from the top of the door to the garage door, having new springs and still more weight to add I'm hoping it will lower a little, either way the roof can't go on until it goes out on the drive. thanks for looking Sam :tea:
 

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