popotla

Active Member
My Defender will be parked and not driven for a little over four months in a fairly hot and somewhat humid climate (Uruguay, where it’s now summer). The matter of keeping the batteries charged is taken care of but are there any other special precautions I should take regarding, for example, the tyres (best pressure to maintain?) or any other aspect? (I’m not sure yet whether or not it’ll be under cover.)

Thanks.
 
My Defender will be parked and not driven for a little over four months in a fairly hot and somewhat humid climate (Uruguay, where it’s now summer). The matter of keeping the batteries charged is taken care of but are there any other special precautions I should take regarding, for example, the tyres (best pressure to maintain?) or any other aspect? (I’m not sure yet whether or not it’ll be under cover.)

Thanks.
4 months isn't too bad tbh.... Mine goes that without turning over regularly, and its often 90 percent humidity here. Perhaps give it a spray with WD40 over various elements just in case. If its hot and humid its probably working to your advantage.. If you find out if its undercover cracking the windows open a little would help.
 
I'm really not sure if diesel fuel is affected by what I'm about to say but you often hear of people complaining about petrol mowers that will not start due to having been stored over the winter months with fuel left in the tank and in the engine system. This will produce a gungy disgusting looking substance known as Cladisporium Resinae which will block everything and is caused by fuel being held static where the fungus can germinate - especially in the humidity conditions you mention. When I was a technician in the RAF, any aero engine (piston or gas turbine) that was predicted to remain unused for 28 days had to be inhibited with a special oil which was pumped through the engine fuel system to drive out the fuel to be replaced by the said oil. I realise that this is a bit over the top for a vehicle engine but I would suggest that the fuel tank is left completely empty or filled to the brim.
 
I had to stand a motorbike for financial reasons a few yrs back.
I inflated the tyres and lifted it as brown has said to stop them getting flat spots, changed the oil as it gets acidic and removed the spark plugs and put some oil down the bores. I plugged the air intake and exhaust, filled the tank to prevent rust, drained the carbs to stop the fuel going off in them and shut the fuel off, stuck an optimate the on the battery and covered it with a sheet.
The following year I put a few drops of oil in the bores incase they had rust on them and turned it over by hand. Plugs back in and it fired straight up even on the old petrol.
 
ianc2051 some farmers use anti algae and sludge additives in their holding tanks to prevent problems with fuel that won't be used for some time to come.
 
ianc2051 some farmers use anti algae and sludge additives in their holding tanks to prevent problems with fuel that won't be used for some time to come.
Quite common a few years ago, after the diesel formulation changed to include bio.
At first the fuel was very unstable, and prone to diesel bug. At that time I was using diesel biocide in the red tank.
Not heard of so many problems lately, fuel formulation has improved.

DERV didnt seem to have so many issues, possibly because not usually stored for so long. If I was going to leave a vehicle for a while I would leave the tank filled to the brim of filler neck to minimise condensation. Biocide is quite cheap, though, and certainly wouldnt do any harm.
 
V interesting. Diesel flu can be grown by adding water to diesel and putting the mix in a sealed container. Part of an experiment I did some years ago to find the brand of fuel with least cost per mile driven, not cheapest per litre.

Also, vosa become very suspicious when there is green fuel in the tank as it means its been sitting unburned for a long time, and so start hunting for secondary tanks. I know this because a bus company were running 45 gallon drums hidden mid wheel base of untaxed fuel without any valve taps.
 
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I'd be concerned about the brakes binding as week as the hand brake and flat spots on the tires. Not sure what you can do to stop it though and shouldn't prove much of a problem really.
 
V interesting. Diesel flu can be grown by adding water to diesel and putting the mix in a sealed container. Part of an experiment I did some years ago to find the brand of fuel with least cost per mile driven, not cheapest per litre.

Also, vosa become very suspicious when there is green fuel in the tank as it means its been sitting unburned for a long time, and so start hunting for secondary tanks. I know this because a bus company were running 45 gallon drums hidden mid wheel base of untaxed fuel without any valve taps.

Yes, the bug grows at first on the interface between the fuel and water droplets. Sometimes it goes out of control and moves into the pure diesel, sometimes causing it to go completely black.
A friends common rail engine in a sprayer was completely ruined by diesel bug, cost thousands to repair.

More likely HMRC would be interested, but the fuel I was talking about is all red diesel for ag. vehicles. I always use normal pump Derv in my Landy, with a bit of lubricity additive to give the old CAV pump a helping hand.
 
Interesting, and your additive for lubrication is 2 stroke?
Dont be silly, it is completely useless for that purpose, not formulated to do that at all. Amazing what drivel people believe! :D

I use Millers EcoMax. My lawyer suggests I should point out that many other excellent fool additives are available! :)
 

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