Bezdonian
Active Member
I have both the 88 and 109 parts manuals for it.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Start reading the diesel engine repair manual, referring to the parts book and the turner web site. Should ask start to make sense. Follow mechanisms to derive their parts and purpose.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Always. And dual line brakes.11" drums twin leading shoes, up front if not already fitted.
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Bezdonian
Active Member
I think mine already has the twin leading brake drums up front. Is the dual line brakes specifically a servo or literally putting a second line in. As I thought the series 3 has 1 line for front and the other for the back. What setup do you recommend s3 servo booster or remote?
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
I recommend standard parts, always, easier to explain to insurers.
So late series 3 pedal/servo/MC.
With low level warning switch in the filter cap (disco 2).
Then pdwa, controversial, bit it's a good piece of kit once refurbished.
One line to the front axle, one to the back.
So late series 3 pedal/servo/MC.
With low level warning switch in the filter cap (disco 2).
Then pdwa, controversial, bit it's a good piece of kit once refurbished.
One line to the front axle, one to the back.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
And Goodrich hoses throughout.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
I trust that system. I've locked up all four wheels, and the fully loaded 3 tonne trailer I had behind, with that system.
Bezdonian
Active Member
How would I create a vacuum for the servo booster as I’ll have the std 2.25 diesel.
Bezdonian
Active Member
So a general update on ideas so far. For the moment all I’m going to do is add a roamerdrive overdrive, overhaul the engine, gearbox, transfer box, axels and diffs. Convert all the lights to led bulbs. Change to alternator power. Add two 12v power sockets one for the interior and the other for the military blackout light on the front wing. Add a servo booster and dual line setup. Possibly add power steering. Parabolic springs and better shocks (recommend any?) and sound/ insulate the interior in a sympathetic manor.
Fully synchro the first 2 gears if possible (any guides would be appreciated)
Any thoughts so far?
Fully synchro the first 2 gears if possible (any guides would be appreciated)
Any thoughts so far?
Early 90/110 sounds easier to me, first ones are now 40 years old.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Electric vacuum pump for servo. Monroe gas shocks. Either a pdwa or a brake level warning light cap. No pas, no point if steering is right. Less plumbing and modification.
No LEDs either. No point, don't last unless you go expensive, but a full relay system and standard hd osram night breaker h4 bulbs will be more reliable in a series. More wires holding the filaments so less prone to vibration damage. Also repairable on the road, in the field.
Not sure on adding synchro mesh to 1/2, and keeping it a 2a box, maybe series 3 box and clutch, and a puma clutch pedal?
Wright off road mat, and oodles of bitumen sheeting on the engine side of the bulkhead, and on the bonnet, for sound.
Considered an ATB/ truetrac for the diffs?
No LEDs either. No point, don't last unless you go expensive, but a full relay system and standard hd osram night breaker h4 bulbs will be more reliable in a series. More wires holding the filaments so less prone to vibration damage. Also repairable on the road, in the field.
Not sure on adding synchro mesh to 1/2, and keeping it a 2a box, maybe series 3 box and clutch, and a puma clutch pedal?
Wright off road mat, and oodles of bitumen sheeting on the engine side of the bulkhead, and on the bonnet, for sound.
Considered an ATB/ truetrac for the diffs?
tottot
Well-Known Member
As above for syncro box, fit a series 3 box, it is a stronger unit and has syncro 1/2 Not the greatest, do not expect it to change like a modern car but used with sympathy [ take a little time ] it will be fine. Some very late built 2a trucks had the syncro box as they ran out of the previous version.
Bezdonian
Active Member
So for now I’m probably going to stick with the standard box but will go for a high ratio transfer from Ashcroft. However the only thing that I absolutely want to change is the braking system. Plan is to make a dual line system, servo booster from a S3, mechanical vacuum pump from a 110 2.25 including the front timing cover for the mounting points, vacuum tank and 11” drums all round.
Chalky.
Well-Known Member
I'm watching this thread with intrigue, and to be honest takes me back to when I first joined this forum!
I owned a battered series 3 petrol at the time, that I wanted to convert to v8. After numerous years, and a cut in half and rewelded rrc chassis, with v8 etc etc, I bought a big standard td5 90 with a completely rusted out chassis.
8 and a bit years later, and a one galvanised chassis, and I don't regret going down the 'easy' route one bit. The 90 does everything I want it to and more! Good luck with the series, but just to throw a spanner in the works have you thought about converting the 110 to petrol? Stronger drive train, ulez, coil springs etc...?
I owned a battered series 3 petrol at the time, that I wanted to convert to v8. After numerous years, and a cut in half and rewelded rrc chassis, with v8 etc etc, I bought a big standard td5 90 with a completely rusted out chassis.
8 and a bit years later, and a one galvanised chassis, and I don't regret going down the 'easy' route one bit. The 90 does everything I want it to and more! Good luck with the series, but just to throw a spanner in the works have you thought about converting the 110 to petrol? Stronger drive train, ulez, coil springs etc...?
Bezdonian
Active Member
As much as would want to keep the 110, the laws are arbitrary. So no matter what I do, it still wouldn’t be compliant until 2033 when it gets its VHI.I'm watching this thread with intrigue, and to be honest takes me back to when I first joined this forum!
I owned a battered series 3 petrol at the time, that I wanted to convert to v8. After numerous years, and a cut in half and rewelded rrc chassis, with v8 etc etc, I bought a big standard td5 90 with a completely rusted out chassis.
8 and a bit years later, and a one galvanised chassis, and I don't regret going down the 'easy' route one bit. The 90 does everything I want it to and more! Good luck with the series, but just to throw a spanner in the works have you thought about converting the 110 to petrol? Stronger drive train, ulez, coil springs etc...?
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
The standard 2286 diesel series 3 has a hose connector on the inlet manifold to connect to the servo
inside the manifold is a butterfly valve with a little hole in middle, when foot off accelerator ( as in when you brake ) engine sucking very hard to get air through little hole creating the vacuum reqd. It’s also connected to the vacuum reservoir bottle which stores the vacuum too
I can lock up all 4 wheels with the twin leading 11” drums when everyone working well
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Chalky.
Well-Known Member
100% great reasons, not that you have to justify it to anyone of course! Good luck with it (do you have a project thread up and running?) , will be watching with interest!
