Bezdonian
Active Member
What I was planning to do is, remove the valve and use the vacuum pump to suck the air in to the tank via a non return t junction. Just need to know if the later timing case fits the one on mine. Part number Erc9528
Bezdonian
Active Member
Yes, it’s the Swiss army 109 station wagon: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/swiss-army-series-2a-109-project.388688/#post-5612140100% great reasons, not that you have to justify it to anyone of course! Good luck with it (do you have a project thread up and running?) , will be watching with interest!
Bezdonian
Active Member
I've also put this on my swiss army 109 project thread. Turns out the Swiss used the 2.6l rover engine with a zenith carb. So I ended up going down the 2.6/3.0l rover engine conversion rabbit hole. Which I might add is still possible other than the bell housing and gearbox tunnel diaphragm.
So would it be a good idea to swap out the 2.25 diesel for say a 3.0l rover p5 engine? Are there any benefits with torque, mpg, maintenance or is it roughly the same?
So would it be a good idea to swap out the 2.25 diesel for say a 3.0l rover p5 engine? Are there any benefits with torque, mpg, maintenance or is it roughly the same?
Bezdonian
Active Member
Good Evening Everyone,
I'm about to embark on a restoration project with my Series 2a 109 station wagon.
This will involve getting a new chassis, bulkhead, 2.6L rover 100 engine, and some non standard modifications to the vehicle as it will be a Swiss army 109 station wagon used by the swiss fortress troops in the 60s-90s.
The main hurdle is the total project cost.
The bulk of the money will be going to a workshop which I've told was going to repaint and repair the body work components in pieces over the next 5-6 months.
They quoted me £10k which seems quite high considering I'm supplying the paint, which is a matte swiss olive green 2k+hardener :https://www.militaerlacke.de/fahrze...hweizer-armee/344/2k-kta-13754-gelbolive?c=44 .
I'll be doing most of the prep as well, including assembling and painting the chassis, pipes, engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles and installing a new loom with a modern fuse conversion and alternator.
So far the project is looking around £18-19k in total (which I don't have) and just wondering if its worth perhaps doing all the paint myself with the paint I'm looking to get.
So I have a couple of questions:
Has anyone done military 2k paint with hardener before and does it require a Matte clear coat afterwards (See paint link)?
What would you all recommend as a paint application?
How much did it cost in all?
Just to be clear, its not going to be a show car its a military vehicle so the paint should be treated as if it came from the workshops which the swiss are quite proficient at. But it will still be a Matte finish regardless.
I have access to a workshop with a compressor so would require a gun for paint.
I'm about to embark on a restoration project with my Series 2a 109 station wagon.
This will involve getting a new chassis, bulkhead, 2.6L rover 100 engine, and some non standard modifications to the vehicle as it will be a Swiss army 109 station wagon used by the swiss fortress troops in the 60s-90s.
The main hurdle is the total project cost.
The bulk of the money will be going to a workshop which I've told was going to repaint and repair the body work components in pieces over the next 5-6 months.
They quoted me £10k which seems quite high considering I'm supplying the paint, which is a matte swiss olive green 2k+hardener :https://www.militaerlacke.de/fahrze...hweizer-armee/344/2k-kta-13754-gelbolive?c=44 .
I'll be doing most of the prep as well, including assembling and painting the chassis, pipes, engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles and installing a new loom with a modern fuse conversion and alternator.
So far the project is looking around £18-19k in total (which I don't have) and just wondering if its worth perhaps doing all the paint myself with the paint I'm looking to get.
So I have a couple of questions:
Has anyone done military 2k paint with hardener before and does it require a Matte clear coat afterwards (See paint link)?
What would you all recommend as a paint application?
How much did it cost in all?
Just to be clear, its not going to be a show car its a military vehicle so the paint should be treated as if it came from the workshops which the swiss are quite proficient at. But it will still be a Matte finish regardless.
I have access to a workshop with a compressor so would require a gun for paint.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Wow £10k will buy a lot of filler and paint and spray tools, take your time and diy
is the chassis holes and rusty, your existing pics of body do look good, if you have the room to set new chassis next to landy that’s a bonus. Any thoughts of a rolling restoration so you can still enjoy driving itt albeit with it off road for a couple of weeks at a time rather than years.
is the chassis holes and rusty, your existing pics of body do look good, if you have the room to set new chassis next to landy that’s a bonus. Any thoughts of a rolling restoration so you can still enjoy driving itt albeit with it off road for a couple of weeks at a time rather than years.
Bezdonian
Active Member
Although it could be a rolling restoration, the bulkhead is completely shot and the pedals are all seized except for the throttle. Thankfully it’s going to a workshop for 6 months so I will be able to strip it down and put it on a new chassis, bulkhead, engine (2.6 6 cylinder), overhaul the lower parts of the car, repaint and re-wire it with a new loom.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
looking forward to thread
Rangieman123
Active Member
A friend of mine has a diesel Series 3 which had been fitted with an alternator from a Suzuki Vitara 2.0 diesel.
It has a proper mechanical vacuum pump built into its rear housing to feed the servo. The only conversion work needed was to give it an oil feed line via a T piece from the filter head.
It has a proper mechanical vacuum pump built into its rear housing to feed the servo. The only conversion work needed was to give it an oil feed line via a T piece from the filter head.
