Bezdonian · Oct 4, 2023

lynall said:
Cant have def 200 alt in its normal position as I think it fouls engine mount? disco 200 version mounted much higher, but the disco 200 alt belt set up is proper crap, and needs constant tlc.

Front diff is an easy swap as the axle casing also has a fill/level plug, rear axle casing does not, so you need an early rr diff with same level/filler set up as the series or you will have to weld in a level bung, some people just fill up via the half shaft, which sounds a right ball ache to me.

I think Gwyn lewis does an alternator bracket for the def200 which puts it where the ac condenser pump goes. When you mean diffs are saying the diff or the axle? I imaging finding an early RR diff is like hens teeth these days.

lynall · Oct 5, 2023

Bezdonian said:
I think Gwyn lewis does an alternator bracket for the def200 which puts it where the ac condenser pump goes. When you mean diffs are saying the diff or the axle? I imaging finding an early RR diff is like hens teeth these days.

Diff is the bloody awkward heavy bolt in bit, and axle is the casing itself that the diff bolts into.
I would imagine early rr diffs are rare nowadays, I bought mine about 10 years ago, two for 80 quid!
Yes GL does the alt brkt, very neat it is to, I made my own as I am tight, belt run and sizing was fun.

lynall · Oct 5, 2023

Poor pics of diy alt bracket.

Bezdonian · Oct 5, 2023

lynall said:
Diff is the bloody awkward heavy bolt in bit, and axle is the casing itself that the diff bolts into.
I would imagine early rr diffs are rare nowadays, I bought mine about 10 years ago, two for 80 quid!
Yes GL does the alt brkt, very neat it is to, I made my own as I am tight, belt run and sizing was fun.

Thanks for clearing that up, I wasn't sure what you meant as you talking about the fill/level on the rear casing and the RR diffs, it confused me for a bit. Blimey £80 is cheap, although I could probably source them If I know what to look for. That's a decent bracket for the alternator guessing yours is a disco 200. Going off what 300 bhp/ton said the ratio is about right for the 200 as that's what I'm used to in my defender.
1st=10mph
2nd=20mph
3rd=30mph
4th=40mph
5th=50+mph
so theoretically on the series gearbox with the ratio changed it should about the same but 5th is overdrive.

tottot · Oct 5, 2023

Bezdonian said:
Interesting, I think you might be right about the gaps in the gears if the ratio is higher. The lt77 on mine in 1st is so low that you can pull away in 2nd, so I imaging its like that for 1st in yours. Also given how often the gear changes are, when did full syncro gearboxes arrive for the Series IIa and can they be converted to full syncro with an older box?

Only in the last months of production did 2a have the series 3 syncro box, ran out of the earlyer box I recon

Bezdonian · Oct 6, 2023

Thank you for the comments and suggestions so far. So for the moment I'm staying with the 200 tdi and the original gearbox (but might install an Lt77 later) and transfer box (After they are overhauled if needed). I'll install an overdrive, Look into changing the diff ratio (if I'm not happy with the performance) and possibly a FWH but still on the fence about them.
Also I would like some reviews on bulkheads and chassis suppliers. I'd like to go for a pegasus bulkhead and either a Richard or Shielder chassis. What Overdrive do you recommend?
What's your thoughts on my choices so far.

tottot · Oct 6, 2023

Issues with your ideas.
Lt 77 or R380 box with 230 transfer box are full time systems driving front axle at all times. Series front axle does not have CV joints. Folk have done this which is ok for say weekend green lane truck but not for what you want.
Work arounds are, find part time transfer box [ it was an option for early 110's ] Find front axle from stage one V8 series 3 which had CV's. Both of these are in the hen's teeth category.

kermit_rr · Oct 6, 2023

boguing said:
Don't bother with freewheeling hubs. The work done in turning the front diff and prop is trivial - try spinning the wheels when the front's jacked up!

I'm saving you a fortune here. Mind you, you're going to need it.

They might not cut the amount of fuel used but they do cut noise from the diff etc

Turboman · Oct 6, 2023

Bezdonian said:
Good Morning everyone
Due to a new job (which requires me to travel in the Ulez everyday thanks Khan) sadly my 1993 110 CSW daily driver isn't going to cut it anymore. So it could go up for sale in the near future.
After looking around I've decided to follow in my families footsteps and may have an opportunity to buy a Series 2a diesel 109 station wagon.
The reason for this is I don't like the more modern land rovers and anything built after 1983 isn't viable in the Ulez unless its got a V8 and fuel economy like that will kill my finances.
That and I really like the Series 2, it to me is the most iconic land rover.
But I am aware that the 2.25 diesel isn't really viable to keep up with modern traffic on motorways i.e. (55-60 cruise speed 70mph tops for overtaking Hgvs). So what engine would you recommend? I was thinking a defender 200tdi (which I am familiar with as its what's powering my defender) with standard gearbox (Obviously an overhaul) and the Ashcroft high ratio gears for the transfer box. Also Autosparks offer a 200 tdi loom for the 2a and Richard Chassis could modify a galv chassis to accommodate the new engine.
Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm new to Series 2s but very familiar with its younger sibling.

Maybe just don't drive on the motorway too much?
Lot of trucks are limited to 56 mph, so you can just sit behind them in the inside lane.
It is ULEZ compliant, so no worries there.
If you really feel a need to go fast, why not get a car, they are good at doing just that.

Bezdonian · Oct 6, 2023

tottot said:
Issues with your ideas.
Lt 77 or R380 box with 230 transfer box are full time systems driving front axle at all times. Series front axle does not have CV joints. Folk have done this which is ok for say weekend green lane truck but not for what you want.
Work arounds are, find part time transfer box [ it was an option for early 110's ] Find front axle from stage one V8 series 3 which had CV's. Both of these are in the hen's teeth category.

I think I didn’t write my idea very well. I planning to keep the original transfer box, just maybe changing the gearbox out later if I’m concerned with reliability.

Bezdonian · Oct 6, 2023

Turboman said:
Maybe just don't drive on the motorway too much?
Lot of trucks are limited to 56 mph, so you can just sit behind them in the inside lane.
It is ULEZ compliant, so no worries there.
If you really feel a need to go fast, why not get a car, they are good at doing just that.

Bezdonian said:
I think I didn’t write my idea very well. I planning to keep the original transfer box, just maybe changing the gearbox out later if I’m concerned with reliability.

I would have two cars but my landlords rules are that I can only own 1 vehicle and it must be road worthy. Hence why my current car is a rolling restoration.

300bhp/ton · Oct 6, 2023

Bezdonian said:
I would have two cars but my landlords rules are that I can only own 1 vehicle and it must be road worthy. Hence why my current car is a rolling restoration.

How can your landlord dictate what you own?? Maybe you mean you only have parking for 1 vehicle.

Turboman · Oct 6, 2023

Bezdonian said:
I would have two cars but my landlords rules are that I can only own 1 vehicle and it must be road worthy. Hence why my current car is a rolling restoration.

I don't understand that. If you have another vehicle, which is insured and taxed, and you park it a few streets away, how does your landlord know?

Bezdonian · Oct 6, 2023

300bhp/ton said:
How can your landlord dictate what you own?? Maybe you mean you only have parking for 1 vehicle.

No my statement is correct I'm afraid, because I'm renting and we agreed to their terms or they'll end our tenancy. It's not caused any issues in the past and I'm pretty sure they have a soft spot for land rovers.

Bezdonian · Oct 6, 2023

Turboman said:
I don't understand that. If you have another vehicle, which is insured and taxed, and you park it a few streets away, how does your landlord know?

I live on a country estate, the only roads near me are country lanes.

Bezdonian · Oct 9, 2023

Update, I'm going to be a proud owner very soon. So just buying the manuals but, this might sound a bit stupid which parts catalogue is the right ones. There's the bonneted manual: RTC 9840CC or there's the other one: RTC 9840. Which one is the right one for a March 1969 build date?

Turboman · Oct 10, 2023

Bezdonian said:
Update, I'm going to be a proud owner very soon. So just buying the manuals but, this might sound a bit stupid which parts catalogue is the right ones. There's the bonneted manual: RTC 9840CC or there's the other one: RTC 9840. Which one is the right one for a March 1969 build date?

I don't actually use parts book, partly because I have lost it.
I do have a genuine Series 2a manual, which is worth a read.
Parts, I just order off the internet, or ring Craddock for difficult parts. The part numbers are mostly listed on the internet catalogues.

Any pics of the vehicle? And did you go for Petrol or Diesel?

lynall · Oct 10, 2023

Bezdonian said:
Update, I'm going to be a proud owner very soon. So just buying the manuals but, this might sound a bit stupid which parts catalogue is the right ones. There's the bonneted manual: RTC 9840CC or there's the other one: RTC 9840. Which one is the right one for a March 1969 build date?

Summat like this, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18607651...UL9VoUG2Jr0VM9MWIKpNR3sQ==|tkp:Bk9SR9CKk4vjYg

Bezdonian · Oct 10, 2023

Turboman said:
I don't actually use parts book, partly because I have lost it.
I do have a genuine Series 2a manual, which is worth a read.
Parts, I just order off the internet, or ring Craddock for difficult parts. The part numbers are mostly listed on the internet catalogues.

Any pics of the vehicle? And did you go for Petrol or Diesel?

Ah right I see. Personally I’d rather have a physical book to look at part numbers which I can search for on the web for the best quality ones.
I’m purchasing a March 1969 109 station wagon with 2.25 diesel engine. Interestingly it’s also got 3 additional gauges and the rear axle is a salisbury axle.
I’ve stated at the beginning of the thread I’m planning to re-engine it to a def 200tdi. I’ll add some photos in a couple of days when it arrives.

Turboman · Oct 10, 2023

Bezdonian said:
Ah right I see. Personally I’d rather have a physical book to look at part numbers which I can search for on the web for the best quality ones.
I’m purchasing a March 1969 109 station wagon with 2.25 diesel engine. Interestingly it’s also got 3 additional gauges and the rear axle is a salisbury axle.
I’ve stated at the beginning of the thread I’m planning to re-engine it to a def 200tdi. I’ll add some photos in a couple of days when it arrives.

You won't get much choice on parts. Unless you want to pay a fortune for Heritage Parts from JLR, which will be OEM anyway, it will be "Aftermarket" or "OEM Quality" from the usual suspects.

That is a nice motor, not unusual in having a few retrofitted gauges, and some of them were factory fitted with Salisbury axles, but I can't remember why.

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