cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I assume that you have reset any faults, if not the compressor will not run unless you use the software.
I've tried. Thing is the software doesn't find any faults. The only way to get it to do anything is through the software.
If you still have 35mph message and no faults, then the software is not reading it correctly.
If pump runs from the software then the relay in fusebox is probably ok. The software bypasses the thermal check, so next check the thermal switch wire from pump for continuity to ground or the pump body. If this is open circuit, the ECU will not run the pump automatically. To verify this you can ground the wire & see if the ECU runs the pump.
Even though you have a rebuilt pump, it's worth checking the actual pump output. If you connect a pressure gauge instead of the tank airline, when pump is running it the gauge show rise to >> 150psi quite quickly. If not the refurb is bad, or you have leaks (diaphragm, dryer pipes or tank pipe).
Also remember the ECU will not run the pump unless engine is running !!
If pump runs from the software then the relay in fusebox is probably ok. The software bypasses the thermal check, so next check the thermal switch wire from pump for continuity to ground or the pump body. If this is open circuit, the ECU will not run the pump automatically. To verify this you can ground the wire & see if the ECU runs the pump.
Even though you have a rebuilt pump, it's worth checking the actual pump output. If you connect a pressure gauge instead of the tank airline, when pump is running it the gauge show rise to >> 150psi quite quickly. If not the refurb is bad, or you have leaks (diaphragm, dryer pipes or tank pipe).
Also remember the ECU will not run the pump unless engine is running !!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You sure about that? I usually do height calibration ignition on but without the engine running and a charger connected to the battery.
Thanks for that. The pump was a brand new one from a mechanic friend of mine that worked on land rovers, it was sitting in the bottom of his tool cabinet for years. I say was because the thermal switch is shot, checked it tonight. i had another one lying around and that's working away. i still have the 35mph message and the software is not reading any faults. How would I check the pins at the ecu? would it just be showing twelve volts at that pin or would I have to backprobe it while it's connected? I have it plugged out at the minute, thought that there might have been some corrosion there but they look spotless, sprayed some contact cleaner in anyways. I have another ecu sitting there that I've had for a while.
When I have the laptop connected and I can move the car up and down with the switch even though there are not lights on it. I can also move it up and down in the calibrate section of the software. Just nothing when it's not connected and can't get shot of the 35mph message.
I've a Hawkeye Total and I'm looking at cobbling together a plug for the eas for it, there's a how to on the site. I can't see myself being able to get a Nanocom anytime soon (trying to get a mortgage and I can't see the bank liking that!!!)
Thanks for all the help and advice so far.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I can't remember, but have you checked the white connectors behind the kick panel at the bottom of the A post in the drivers footwell?
Check with the ECU connected. ECU needs Pins 13 & 16 to be 0V, and engine running to activate the pump automatically. Engine running is more difficult because it's a pulsed waveform so the ECU knows engine is above idle.
As Keith says, the height switch not lighting up is most likely the white connections in LH footwell. It's not just the pins that corrode, but the crimped wires as well, so best solution is to solder & heat shrink the wires. I had to clean the copper before they would solder (Try this).
If you cannot clear faults, then there's still a fault somewhere, even if the software does not show it.
As Keith says, the height switch not lighting up is most likely the white connections in LH footwell. It's not just the pins that corrode, but the crimped wires as well, so best solution is to solder & heat shrink the wires. I had to clean the copper before they would solder (Try this).
If you cannot clear faults, then there's still a fault somewhere, even if the software does not show it.
That's tonight's job
when it cools down a bit. Miss my old shed that had wooden doors and was under trees. I'm not looking forward to it. I don't really fit in small spaces )I've those done already but as I said I don't really fit into small spaces so it's possible the wires weren't fully clean. I'll redo them. Thanks for the cleaning tip.
Gord Wedman
Well-Known Member
If you are making the EAS plug for the Hawkeye Total you could also look at my post in rangerovers.net, P38 section, titled:
Hawkeye BA 5074 EAS dongle wiring diagram and photos
Hawkeye BA 5074 EAS dongle wiring diagram and photos
That's the very one in was using
I've tried it already but I was tired and cranky that time so let's just say it didn't turn out too well.Thanks for the tip on the connectors on the drivers side. That's a pic of one of them after a Liberal dose of contact cleaner. I said the ECU with a spare one I had and I noticed that when I started up I could move her up and down off the switch but no lights on. Plugged in the laptop and got the 35mph message and still no faults. I'll be removing the plugs this evening hopefully and we'll see them.
Attachments
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
That is one very clean connector!
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Compared to what mine looked like before I cut and soldered them they look shiny shiny
The 35mph message always appears when the software starts talking to EAS ECU. You can ignore it during diagnostics as long as it disappears afterwards. If it's not there before you connect the laptop & no faults found then there probably are no faults !!
Given the corrosion on the contacts before cleaning, I would check the state of the copper when the crimps attach. If these are also corroded, you could still have issues.
For the height switch, the Up & Down contacts simply connect either pins 33 or 34 to ground. The LED signals are driven from the EAS ECU using serial data lines, and also connect to the BECM to do the 35mph message and the High Mode indicator in the instruments.
Given the corrosion on the contacts before cleaning, I would check the state of the copper when the crimps attach. If these are also corroded, you could still have issues.
For the height switch, the Up & Down contacts simply connect either pins 33 or 34 to ground. The LED signals are driven from the EAS ECU using serial data lines, and also connect to the BECM to do the 35mph message and the High Mode indicator in the instruments.
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Yet another update on this! Finally got a few free minutes to have a look at this this week. I turned on the car and left the tailgate open and I could feel the pump running. After a little while it stopped and I closed the tailgate. No 35MPH max message so far but also still no lights on the switch. However I could raise and lower it using the switch. The pump was running quite a bit though and I reckon that there is a leak in the driver side rear (didn't seem to rise as well as the rest). I don't care though, progress is being made!!! I'm guessing that maybe the simple act of disconnecting, spraying a bunch of cleaner into the connectors in the drivers side footwell and reconnecting them might have done something. I still don't know why there is no lights on the switch though.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Possibly the connectors are still not making good contact, they need to be cut out and the joints soldered to be sure. It's almost impossible to get those contacts really clean.
