Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Any recommendations for a user friendly unit!? 
https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/
Faultmate Extreme costs a bomb - but brilliant
Faultmate Nanocom Evo is fanatastic for such a small device - price resonable considering but still around £350 ish
Bearmach Hawkeye - heard good things price around £300 ish
Autologic - exepnsive
Testbook - hahahaha
Nanocom Evo by BlackBox is probably the best option IMHO - never used one but if Datatek and the Wammer recommend, thats good enough for me!
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Thanks saint and all you other guys for your help. Will keep posted,
With your mix of new and old school methods, how come you haven't written a guide to bypassing all the unnecessary gubbins on these beasts?
G~
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Hi guys,
Recently purchased a 1999 p38 4.6HSE:high5: which by all accounts I am very happy with bar one;
ENGINE DISABLED
Until recently, I had been experiencing the apparently common problem with the passive and or full immobiliser working well and the remote communication not so.
I have never been able to get my EAK to work as I dont seem to be able to initiate the start sequence; when turning my key to the left four times, I get various reactions from the solenoid, locks, indicators etc (no beep) but no response when turning the key to the right from any.
After random amounts of elapsed time over several occasions at different locations, the fob would react and re-mobilise the system.
Given that the back of my fob was chewed up and the sprung battery contact was loose (one pin not soldered into back of PCB) I replaced the fob with a brand new one from my local independent Landy garage. problem still there.
Here is where Im at now!
I got my detailer to work the interior of the car (particularly the back as previous owner kept several dogs in there!) He removed both covers below the parcel shelves as well as all carpet including on the tailgate. Noticing a short connection on the subwoofer and rear speakers, he moved the wires about to try to find the problem (can of worms I fear!) I believe this caused the fuse to blow that governs the tailgate etc.
Replaced the fuse, tailgate all good however the central locking doesnt seem to work now and I now have had no communication from the fob over the last four days (never that long befor) which tells me that the issue has grown beyond the common receiver problem. I have removed all the rear trim again to try to find any loose connection etc and to check the RF unit.
Have now resigned myself to replacing the RF as the next port of call so can you please let me know the part number for the latest edition and any suggestions regarding the central locking etc.
Much appreciated,
P.S have read about wifi etc.
An on the drive Charlie
Fuse was blown and replaced, could this have burnt or damaged a component in the rf possibly?
Have you checked that the fuse hasn't blown again? Not suggesting persistent fuse replacement as a strategy but if it's gone again, it might narrow down what you're looking for.
G~
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Yes, have even tried to induce the replacement to blow repeating similar movement on the sound loom he was buggering about with, no result
Well seeing as how fuse 15 20 amp, the one that will have blown also services your speakers and sub woofer amongst other things. I think that maybe a distinct possibility.
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Thanks wammers, thought I had read that they share the fuse, but good to be sure!
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Next step is to twist the arm of my local (7 miles) landy independent to come out with his hawkeye.
Thanks again for all the help so far
Thanks again for all the help so far
Odd question - do you have a tow ball??
A trick used by the n'er-do-wells to try and steal the car was to short some wires to the tow socket, this caused the Tail Gate lock or C/L to unlock and they could get in....
Don't ask me how, which wires or anything like that as I have no clue, but a previous P38 I had all of a sudden shorted and I traced it to stripped insulation on the towing wiring shorting to chassis earth, I asked a neighbour about it as he was a mechanic, and he mentioned it was a known way of getting into Range Rovers by shorting the towing wiring causing the car to throw a hissy and unlock itself....
Not sure how true that was......but I had no other reason for having stripped insulation
A trick used by the n'er-do-wells to try and steal the car was to short some wires to the tow socket, this caused the Tail Gate lock or C/L to unlock and they could get in....
Don't ask me how, which wires or anything like that as I have no clue, but a previous P38 I had all of a sudden shorted and I traced it to stripped insulation on the towing wiring shorting to chassis earth, I asked a neighbour about it as he was a mechanic, and he mentioned it was a known way of getting into Range Rovers by shorting the towing wiring causing the car to throw a hissy and unlock itself....
Not sure how true that was......but I had no other reason for having stripped insulation
I should look at the sums very carefully. Things are probably more expensive in London but I was quoted £80 for call out, £80 for fault code reading and reset & plus cost of any repairs required. I don't actually think that is unreasonable.
My view was that a 15 year old computer with a car attached is going to throw things up quite regularly so a Nanocom Evo made sense.
Even if you don't know how to fix whatever it is, you will be in a much better position when you phone the mechanics.
G~
My view was that a 15 year old computer with a car attached is going to throw things up quite regularly so a Nanocom Evo made sense.
Even if you don't know how to fix whatever it is, you will be in a much better position when you phone the mechanics.
G~
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Yes I do have a tow bar, will check the insulation!
I think the term swapping wires around was used, who knows what he did. Something must have been put to earth to cause the blow. Unless it is still not connected to anything. Volt meter or bulb tester needed i think.
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Hey Guys,
Is this the latest RF by any chance?? Have bought a tester to check the power to the RF but am unsure of where to put the red probe?
again!
Check the Pictures in this post shows what the new one should look like inside...
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-remote-receiver-problems-53360.html
EDIT: Just realised those pictures are crap...there was a thread with pictures of the internals so you could see the difference, but I can't seem to find it....Looks like you have the newer version though
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-remote-receiver-problems-53360.html
EDIT: Just realised those pictures are crap...there was a thread with pictures of the internals so you could see the difference, but I can't seem to find it....Looks like you have the newer version though
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