Dorset Ranger
Active Member
When message displays "Engine Disables" "Press Remote" after turning the key, the fob doesnt work in or out of the ignition......used to before the clean on and off as per the normal probem.
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
This also runs in at the same time as the CL broke down
You have to get fob working, do i take it the led does not come on when it is pressed. You can try this it may work. In the fob when you take the batteries out there is a contact at the top side of the opening. If you look up inside the fob this contact is connected to the PC board by a pin that can break off the board. If you see that this is stuck up try gently pushing in back down it should click back in. Then refit batteries and see what you have.
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Hi guys,
Recently purchased a 1999 p38 4.6HSE:high5: which by all accounts I am very happy with bar one;
ENGINE DISABLED! I would love the pleasure of driving this lovely car more so please please help on the below;
Until recently, I had been experiencing the apparently common problem with the passive and or full immobiliser working well and the remote communication not so.
I have never been able to get my EAK to work as I dont seem to be able to initiate the start sequence; when turning my key to the left four times, I get various reactions from the solenoid, locks, indicators etc (no beep) but no response when turning the key to the right from any.
After random amounts of elapsed time over several occasions at different locations, the fob would react and re-mobilise the system.
Given that the back of my fob was chewed up and the sprung battery contact was loose (one pin not soldered into back of PCB) I replaced the fob with a brand new one from my local independent Landy garage. problem still there.
Here is where Im at now!
I got my detailer to work the interior of the car (particularly the back as previous owner kept several dogs in there!) He removed both covers below the parcel shelves as well as all carpet including on the tailgate. Noticing a short connection on the subwoofer and rear speakers, he moved the wires about to try to find the problem (can of worms I fear!) I believe this caused the fuse to blow that governs the tailgate etc.
Replaced the fuse, tailgate all good however the central locking doesnt seem to work now and I now have had no communication from the fob over the last four days (never that long befor) which tells me that the issue has grown beyond the common receiver problem. I have removed all the rear trim again to try to find any loose connection etc and to check the RF unit.
Have now resigned myself to replacing the RF as the next port of call so can you please let me know the part number for the latest edition and any suggestions regarding the central locking etc.
Much appreciated,
P.S have read about wifi etc.
An on the drive Charlie
Yes this was the case with the original fob and although poking the contact back into the pcb got it working, it wasn't the end of the problem occurring so I bought a new one which is also fine (both led's light up)
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Think I need to check power to the rf and cl systems, any ideas on a suitable tester given the potential for future use on this baby!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
But not always if the RF aerial is disconnected as has been reported in the past by others.
Again concur with D,
The Sync uses a coil in the barrell and also the RF Rec. - if the RF unit is duff or not getting a signal from the fob, the sync won't complete...
As far as I see it working - the coil in the ignition barrell excites the fob - the fob repsonds by sending an RF signal to the RF Unit - the RF Unit passes this signal to the BeCM to check it is the right code out of the rolling code set - this then gets sent back to the RF unit as correct and the RF Unit informs the key of the next rolling code set - the car then starts....
That may be overly simplistic or it could be a bit wrong, but the principle is there....
You do need a working RF Rec. for the sync to work.
The Sync uses a coil in the barrell and also the RF Rec. - if the RF unit is duff or not getting a signal from the fob, the sync won't complete...
As far as I see it working - the coil in the ignition barrell excites the fob - the fob repsonds by sending an RF signal to the RF Unit - the RF Unit passes this signal to the BeCM to check it is the right code out of the rolling code set - this then gets sent back to the RF unit as correct and the RF Unit informs the key of the next rolling code set - the car then starts....
That may be overly simplistic or it could be a bit wrong, but the principle is there....
You do need a working RF Rec. for the sync to work.
No need to shout - I saw it..!!!
No need to shout - I saw it..!!!
Think maybe the EKA code and Fob code are being mixed up here. If Fob is not working EKA code is used to over ride input of Fob code and switch alarm off. What you are syncronising here is the Fob code with the one stored in the BECM. If the Fob ain't working you will never do that.
Very true - but he did say the LEDs work when buttons are pressed. So I can only assume the RF unit isn't....
During the sync process the RF unit needs to talk with the Fob and I don't theink to the are on speaking terms!!
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Thanks guys,
Just got off the phone with mozz,
After trying to skin the cat several ways with no joy, he concludes that the sync from the becm to the ems has dropped.
Anyone near Ringwood with a faultmate or Syncmate etc wanting to earn some beer tokens??!!
I think the CL probelm is a byproduct of trying the EAK too many times and burning or jamming one or more of the micro switches? Felt a stiffness when turning to the right a couple of times before the CL died.
Just got off the phone with mozz,
After trying to skin the cat several ways with no joy, he concludes that the sync from the becm to the ems has dropped.
Anyone near Ringwood with a faultmate or Syncmate etc wanting to earn some beer tokens??!!
I think the CL probelm is a byproduct of trying the EAK too many times and burning or jamming one or more of the micro switches? Felt a stiffness when turning to the right a couple of times before the CL died.
Possible, but in most cases you don't get 'ENGINE DISABLED' message as that message indicates the need to receive a code from the Fob or have the EKA entered....
BeCM to Engine ECU is usually indicated by the Check Engine Light remaining on or not coming on at all (Depending on model year)
Also the Fob Sync won't work if the BeCM is in an alarmed state.!!
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
What else do you suggest it could be? I was thinking loss of power to the rf or the sync between the rf and becm dropping??
Emphasis is *indicated* using *asterix* so you SHURRRUUUPPP...Emphasis is not shouting. SO SHURRUP.
Even if the BECM ECM have lost sync that is a separate issue. After syncing that you will still need to get ride of the "Engine disabled" message buy inputting the EKA code or getting your Fob to work. "Engine disabled" does not come up if BECM ECM have lost sync.
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
Granted the engine disabled problem was occurring intamitantly before the total silent treatment I'm getting now! Green sticker on my rf but feel this should be varifyed with a internal look due to eBay bandits!
Emphasis is *indicated* using *asterix* so you SHURRRUUUPPP...
Ok so i over emphasised. I am old and frail don't shout at me i may start to cry.
You're not a million miles from Rick-the-Pick in Brighton. He seems to know his onions on the electronics side of things. Believe that he is commercial but there have been good reports.
Land Rover Zone - View Profile: Rick-the-Pick
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Land Rover Zone - View Profile: Rick-the-Pick
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