freelandermad
New Member
Fuse boxes are a common failure
I see you are in Fife, I used to have an office in Cupar
Fusebox looks fine.... i did notice one dry solder on the PCB after i dismantled the whole lot back to the PCB...board looked a bit discoloured on the relay point that seems to control the
HEVAC (i think) (yellow relay very bottom driver side corner of fusebox) so done a continuity test, the one that is darkened to the side of the board only seems to go to one pin on the main blue plug as circled in photos attached.
To even attempt to solder they pins back into place would be a nitemare...anyone seen the PCB of the fusebox!!!! WTF are they daft bars at either end lol!!
So what i done was solder from the first bar on the board to the dry solder pin of the relay (NOT my PCB by the way..it belongs to google image) mines looks 99% better than that, id launch that one in bin if it was me its just gonna get more problems lol)..... and all looks good, relay warm rather than hot!
I rigged up manual inflation to each bag when looking for an elusive leak. I noticed that it takes almost 80 psi to lift the drivers side front to about 470 mm, yet it takes less than 50 for the other side front. They are both new air bags and in an act of desperation and to prove a point I swapped them over and of course the results were the same. I wonder why there is such a big difference
Didn't find a leak and she stays up all night on manual but sinks earthward when connected to the valve block. I've already done a rebuild with new seals and diaphragm but guess I must've missed something.
I think she is sulking because I bought an XJ6.........with air suspension
Pete
Noticed the same Pete but i think i have it to a finely tuned art now...
Maybe it's because there is not a lot in the back to lift and you have a bloody great engine in the front.
^^ this mans a genuis...wondered what that metal lump was in between the wings lol
Jump start a P38
I'd rather stick a fork in a toaster.
It's always out with the battery charger and start with 2A and then ramp it up to 6A after an hour or so.
Still, if you're in Sainsburys car park or something, yer don't have much choice
No problems with jump starting if done right ...toaster & fork will allow you to die and that will hurt
I found all sorts of quirks filling them manually when I was leak testing. Sometimes it'd take loads of pressure and then suddenly it would shoot up and the pressure would drop. I'm only guessing but ...
1) Weight distribution - especially if on slope.
2) Length of pipe to valve - pressure will drop off as eponentially in narrow pipe.
3) The way the bag was folded and the friction as it unrolls.
4) Elasticity of rubber.
If you take a trace of what the valves are doing as the car is driving along you can see the computer is constantly tweaking the bags to keep the car level.
Mines is tweaked to standard right height now...and it's just perfecto driving/height wise
or a big lump behind the wheel
I only drive it so cant comment on anyone else haha
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