If you have Marty's filter, then you do not need the antenna disconnected . . . . . . but local RF interference will still cause reduced FOB range. At home I have to be with 10 feet of the car, but at work the FOB works 30-40 feet away.

FYI the filty box doesn't change anything RF related. It simply checks for a valid P38 FOB Type before allowing the data through to the BECM - hence prevents random wakeup.
 
pwood999 said:
If you have Marty's filter, then you do not need the antenna disconnected . . . . . . but local RF interference will still cause reduced FOB range. At home I have to be with 10 feet of the car, but at work the FOB works 30-40 feet away.

FYI the filty box doesn't change anything RF related. It simply checks for a valid P38 FOB Type before allowing the data through to the BECM - hence prevents random wakeup.
Click to expand...
And if it fails it can potentially block all communication with the BECM.
 
So a bit of an update. I received and installed the front left for me drivers door lock from Rimmer bros. I purchased the MG part as suggested but sadly it doesn’t change my situation.
The car remains in the same state with engine disabled message and press keyfob message at the binnacle if wanting to start. CDL is not working from the keylock either and still unable to sync the key.

Becm is not accessible through diagnostics mode so checking the rf memory comes back with the same message that becm has received a valid code. Clearing the memory does not make a difference.

Any ideas? Not sure where to go from here rf receiver?
 
First job is to sort the door latch. If CDL is not working on a brand new latch, then contact Rimmers & get it replaced. There is a procedure where you can jumper the latch wires to simulate CDL & Keyswitch, hence enter the EKA but never tried it.

Your other statement is confusing ? "Becm is not accessible through diagnostics mode". How are you clearing RF Memory if you cannot access BECM Diagnostic ?
 
pwood999 said:
First job is to sort the door latch. If CDL is not working on a brand new latch, then contact Rimmers & get it replaced. There is a procedure where you can jumper the latch wires to simulate CDL & Keyswitch, hence enter the EKA but never tried it.

Your other statement is confusing ? "Becm is not accessible through diagnostics mode". How are you clearing RF Memory if you cannot access BECM Diagnostic ?
Click to expand...
Well I know it sounds confusing but in normal circumstances when you want to connect to the becm a message appears on the binnacle one is in diagnostics mode with the accompanying clicking from becm. Now it does not show this message on the binnacle and all changes one makes do not get stored.
 
In that case it's not connecting, so you're simply viewing the menus on Nanocom. I presume your doing this with Ignition Off ?

Exit to main Nanocom menus & shutdown. Then switch car on & off again. Now reconnect Nanocom & try again ?

Also what's the condition of the footwell connections ? Specifically C102 & C202 behind RH kick panel ?
 
pwood999 said:
In that case it's not connecting, so you're simply viewing the menus on Nanocom. I presume your doing this with Ignition Off ?

Exit to main Nanocom menus & shutdown. Then switch car on & off again. Now reconnect Nanocom & try again ?

Also what's the condition of the footwell connections ? Specifically C102 & C202 behind RH kick panel ?
Click to expand...
To give you bit of background. I’ve bought the car in 2023. I started with repairs ever since. One of the first things I bought was a nanocom and it has always worked fine. I changed the heater matrix and I removed the dash for hvac repairs. All is dry in the wells I also verified the connections left and right but they were then still in ok condition. The central locking was one of the things that actually worked but also one of the things I was bit afraid of. I suppose it was a question of when it would fail. It’s a bit of a bummer for everything I did so far to the car. I was supposed to use for travelling this year but that will be a no go. Ever since the engine is repaired and mot is done so many things went wrong with it. It started with the transfer case after that the main auto gearbox has issues with the torque converter. And while trying to sort all that the car is refusing to start with the current problem.
 
BDC said:
The central locking was one of the things that actually worked but also one of the things I was bit afraid of.
Click to expand...
We all are - Normal P38 paranoia. So we just need to be methodical and thorough. Now you have a new latch start with the door latch test. Don’t rush - it takes as long as it takes so long as it’s done correctly. We need to 100% rule things out as we go.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
We all are - Normal P38 paranoia. So we just need to be methodical and thorough. Now you have a new latch start with the door latch test. Don’t rush - it takes as long as it takes so long as it’s done correctly. We need to 100% rule things out as we go.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the test sheet. Here are the results:

CDL test: open circuit so infinite resistance

Keyswitch test: 2.4ohms or beep circuit closed

Door ajar switch test: beep 23ohms

CDL motor: 27ohms slightly higher but ok i think.
 
BDC said:
Becm is not accessible through diagnostics mode so checking the rf memory comes back with the same message that becm has received a valid code. Clearing the memory does not make a difference.

Any ideas? Not sure where to go from here rf receiver?
Click to expand...

If your BECM is saying its got a valid code, but yet you cant communicate with it properly, I.E change and store settings, then can you trust that?

You have a new door lock confirmed ok (I havent looked or checked against the test sheet).
If the BECM says it gets a valid code but yet asks for " engine disable press remote" and that doesnt work, some signals are getting crossed somewhere.

I would be going through all the connections on the BECM and the OBD socket first. If you dont have reliable coms with the Nanocom you dont have any valid info, is my thinking.

J
 
BDC said:
Thanks for the test sheet. Here are the results:

CDL test: open circuit so infinite resistance

Keyswitch test: 2.4ohms or beep circuit closed

Door ajar switch test: beep 23ohms

CDL motor: 27ohms slightly higher but ok i think.
Click to expand...
If the CDL is always open circuit, then the latch is not working. CDL should be open when door is locked, and closed when door is unlocked.

The EKA process needs both CDL & Keyswitch because the BECM uses key turning & locked-unlocked to detect the key sequence. Get that working, and you should be able to sort the "engine disabled".
 
pwood999 said:
If the CDL is always open circuit, then the latch is not working. CDL should be open when door is locked, and closed when door is unlocked.

The EKA process needs both CDL & Keyswitch because the BECM uses key turning & locked-unlocked to detect the key sequence. Get that working, and you should be able to sort the "engine disabled".
Click to expand...
The values I wrote down here are as per the test sheet with the latch disconnected. Of course i also checked both ways to see if the change in position of the CDL, keyswitch etc can be measured and confirmed, which is the case.
 
BDC said:
I’m going to check the cabling as suggested earlier although I did it before just to make sure.
Click to expand...
Out stations are known to fail, they can be swapped left to right for checking. The loom between the3 door and the A post can also suffer breaks and as pwood99 said, the connectors in the right hand footwell, the least bit of corrosion between pins can play havoc. As Marjon said, check the OBD connector for corrosion front and back.
 
Ok so the loom between the lock and the outstation are fine I checked for continuity.
I opened the outstation just to see what’s inside. There are 3 relays a bunch of resistors diodes etc. No visible damages. I have incoming power via fuses f22 and f9 on the connector on the outstation.
If I look at my problem, being able to unlock with the key (only driver door but not CDL) I’m thinking something is not working in the outstation.

I looked at the connections in the footwell, I can see 2 white ones but must be a different circuit because the wire colour is different than what I see at the outstation.

I did find some damage on 2 wires close to the plug at the outstation. I will repair that to avoid issues later on.

There is something I did not share yet. When I bought the car, I started looking for solutions for problems I didn’t have yet such as my current problem. So I bought a loom from Classic rides North Wales which allows one to reset the engine disabled message. You have to plug it into the outstation where you would normally plugin the doorlatch. Press a few buttons in a certain order should than open all doors and clear the engine disabled fault.

In the beginning I didn’t think about it because I forgot I had this tool. Of course now I have tested it but nothing happens. It actually doesn’t work. I think it doesn’t work because the outstation is faulty. Therefore I think the latch isn’t getting power on the CDL motor and switches.
 
BDC said:
Ok so the loom between the lock and the outstation are fine I checked for continuity.
I opened the outstation just to see what’s inside. There are 3 relays a bunch of resistors diodes etc. No visible damages. I have incoming power via fuses f22 and f9 on the connector on the outstation.
If I look at my problem, being able to unlock with the key (only driver door but not CDL) I’m thinking something is not working in the outstation.

I looked at the connections in the footwell, I can see 2 white ones but must be a different circuit because the wire colour is different than what I see at the outstation.

I did find some damage on 2 wires close to the plug at the outstation. I will repair that to avoid issues later on.

There is something I did not share yet. When I bought the car, I started looking for solutions for problems I didn’t have yet such as my current problem. So I bought a loom from Classic rides North Wales which allows one to reset the engine disabled message. You have to plug it into the outstation where you would normally plugin the doorlatch. Press a few buttons in a certain order should than open all doors and clear the engine disabled fault.

In the beginning I didn’t think about it because I forgot I had this tool. Of course now I have tested it but nothing happens. It actually doesn’t work. I think it doesn’t work because the outstation is faulty. Therefore I think the latch isn’t getting power on the CDL motor and switches.
Click to expand...
As I said, you can swap the outstations from left to right to prove if the drivers door outstation is faulty.
 
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