Good parts can usually be found cheap enough for 38s except certain items that are insanely priced. If you’re willing to spanner yourself it’s fairy frugal.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Good parts can usually be found cheap enough for 38s except certain items that are insanely priced. If you’re willing to spanner yourself it’s fairy frugal.
Click to expand...

It'll all be done myself. Far too cheap to pay someone else to do it!

Anyone used westway oils? Dexron 3 ATF is only £45 ish for 10L - Assuming that's roughly the amount I'll need
 
Nialox said:
It'll all be done myself. Far too cheap to pay someone else to do it!

Anyone used westway oils? Dexron 3 ATF is only £45 ish for 10L - Assuming that's roughly the amount I'll need
Click to expand...
I used morris oils, think it was £24 for 5 ltrs. Its been a while but I recall if you remove a bolt from the right hand side of the nearside gearbox vertical heat shield it will flex out of the way enough to give much better access to the sump bolts.
That bolt has a lot of unnecessary exposed thread which had gone cruddy making removal a bit tougher than normal, I replaced it with a shorter ss one.
I've heard talk of a magnet in the sump but there wasn't one in mine.
I also found that the britpart filter kit sump gasket didn't fit as nice as the original, but it did the job, and one of the copper washers was incorrect for either the drain or fill plugs, I forget which, so chuck nowt away until the job is done.
Pretty sure it was the fill plug washer that was wrong.
You will only get 4 to 5 ltrs of oil out , I did two changes around 100 miles apart, some say 3 changes for belt and braces. Follow RAVE for correct fill level procedure.
 
Flossie said:
I used morris oils, think it was £24 for 5 ltrs. Its been a while but I recall if you remove a bolt from the right hand side of the nearside gearbox vertical heat shield it will flex out of the way enough to give much better access to the sump bolts.
That bolt has a lot of unnecessary exposed thread which had gone cruddy making removal a bit tougher than normal, I replaced it with a shorter ss one.
I've heard talk of a magnet in the sump but there wasn't one in mine.
I also found that the britpart filter kit sump gasket didn't fit as nice as the original, but it did the job, and one of the copper washers was incorrect for either the drain or fill plugs, I forget which, so chuck nowt away until the job is done.
Pretty sure it was the fill plug washer that was wrong.
You will only get 4 to 5 ltrs of oil out , I did two changes around 100 miles apart, some say 3 changes for belt and braces. Follow RAVE for correct fill level procedure.
Click to expand...

Brilliant. Job for the weekend. Going to get some springs on order too.
 
We've actually Airsprings in stock at work but only arnotts and they'll be £80+VAT to me even. So I think order them and save the pennies even though I could get them off the shelf right now - Don't need them until the weekend
 
Nialox said:
23/24 I’d be fairly happy with.

it’s due a filter and oil change anyway. If not for improving it then just for longevity,

Just replaced the key battery. How long do you have it in the ignition to sync?

I turned mine on. Let it run for maybe less than a minute admittedly and turned it off.

still not working. Checked the RF receiver is all plugged in which it is.

the only thing I’m wondering is this history for green oval and I wonder if they’ve turned off the remote function?? I’ve included a photo.
Work was done at 109,781 miles. Which is only 300miles ago.

pls note - battery spec in this invoice is wrong. Car has a 1100cca battery now.

new battery since which they warned might reset it but doesn’t seem to of
Click to expand...

Land Rover do have a fix - the gen 3 RF receiver. Moreover the knew about it before they stopped making the car.
 
Nialox said:
We've actually Airsprings in stock at work but only arnotts and they'll be £80+VAT to me even. So I think order them and save the pennies even though I could get them off the shelf right now - Don't need them until the weekend
Click to expand...

If Arnott Gen 3 go for it. Otherwise I would stick with Dunlop.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Land Rover do have a fix - the gen 3 RF receiver. Moreover the knew about it before they stopped making the car.
Click to expand...

Still not managed to sync key - for 2001 model and also in the handbook it says the key should sync in the ignition.

Currently unlocking doors manually. I am a but worried about wearing out the microswitch in the door though.
 
Nialox said:
Still not managed to sync key - for 2001 model and also in the handbook it says the key should sync in the ignition.

Currently unlocking doors manually. I am a but worried about wearing out the microswitch in the door though.
Click to expand...

Open the car. Shut the door. Press lock button then lock with the key. Then press unlock button and then unlock with the key. Try it a few times. If it doesn't work then clear the RF memory using the Nanocom and try again. At one stage I could only sync the second key if the first fob had first unlocked the car.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Open the car. Shut the door. Press lock button then lock with the key. Then press unlock button and then unlock with the key. Try it a few times. If it doesn't work then clear the RF memory using the Nanocom and try again. At one stage I could only sync the second key if the first fob had first unlocked the car.
Click to expand...


I can confirm it now works. Thank you very much.

reccomend I now unplug RF antenna?
 
Nialox said:
I can confirm it now works. Thank you very much.

reccomend I now unplug RF antenna?
Click to expand...
If the battery is draining because the car is waking up due to spurious RF signals then yes,it's the blue wire,and you will have to stand by the rear driver side window to be able to use the fob.
 
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