RangeRoller dt said:

Usually if it’s immobilised there will be some sort of warning/dash message, unless it’s lost sync in which case it acts like yours is.
The stop solenoid is on the fuel injection pump, put your hand on it and you should feel/hear the click when someone turns the ignition on for you.

Click to expand...

flex38 said:

Thanks for this info.

If immobiliser is somehow not allowing solenoid action, how is this tested; also would the engine still crank?

Click to expand...

Mark Piercy said:

Take a length of wire from the battery live and tap it onto the small nut/wire connector on the solenoid, it should click if working.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

Diagnostic- A nanocom unlocked with the correct option for your engine (edc/gems/Thor) , the more expensive type one Data has, or a testbook T4 the - LR one.
Basically The code just needs to be put in manually or have the EKA sorted out.
There are members on here that already have the kit and know how that are willing to help if near.

If the stop solenoid is physically broke you’d need to change it. Not usual.
- the other possibility is it’s functioning correctly but not clicking because it actually is immobilised/de synced.

Click to expand...

flex38 said:

Got the P38 to run by adjusting the FIP backwards……but it revs off the chart, psychotic like, and there is no in between that and just cranking.
Any ideas? It’s as if the throttle is stuck wide open! I am sure it’s an electronic throttle?
not sure what to do as letting it rev like that am sure it’s not good for it.

Click to expand...

flex38 said:

Got the P38 to run by adjusting the FIP backwards……but it revs off the chart, psychotic like, and there is no in between that and just cranking.
Any ideas? It’s as if the throttle is stuck wide open! I am sure it’s an electronic throttle?
not sure what to do as letting it rev like that am sure it’s not good for it.

Click to expand...

flex38 said:

Thanks so much for the replies and direction.

FIP loosend up so as to shift it to see if it would just start up. Are you saying top off of FIP? Is throttle control on the pump or elsewhere? Did not pull anything off of the FIP, just slackened off.

Cannot seem to get it to sit anywhere between nothing and oh, so too much. One problem is, I cannot find a drawing showing any of the parts you are describing. (Control collar, pin) And I am in fear to continue trying, as it may damage engine, as it goes off the rev chart.

Click to expand...

Datatek said:

The top of the FIP has the control mechanism, if you have not touched it, it should be OK. It really needs diagnostics with which you could check things like the throttle pedal potentiometer.

Click to expand...

flex38 said:

Thanks so much for the info. So I really, need to get into the brain of the system and track what is going on with it from there. Nano or one of the others. If the BecM is reset, do you think this will work? As the problems began with the door lock, the BecM no longer going to sleep, then sleeping once I fixed the door locks, but then the cold snap and the alarm activated, drained the battery and the BecM went back into sleep, then waking up again as before. Door locks are still working fine.
So is this all just BecM scrambled? I’m just come to a loss.

Click to expand...

flex38 said:

Gentlemen, with all your efforts, I thank you, but have have come to a dead end. So I must find someone who is of greater capacity than I to take this on. If anyone knows of where this sweet ride may go and reside, give me a shout.

Regards.
JW

Click to expand...

Mark Piercy said:

That's a shame mate

Click to expand...