Not sure. V5 says Feb 1998 but “S” plate is older…..it’s a scooby-doo mystery truck
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
The blue wire is just the aerial the black is the ground wire, purple is permanent live to RF receiver and the red orange is the signal wire to the Becm you take the power to run the fob from the black v- and the purple v+ which can splice off the ones to the original receiver then the orange wire you cut and run through the new jog switch.
This afternoon just, before tea time….I paddled out to the P38 and this is the list of what was tried and observed.
1) Used a can of Engine Start - and it almost caught, it went beyond a crank to a, “ I am willing”. If it was my Old Ford, I would have floored it and it would have caught and coughed into action.
2) pulled the fuel filter and fuel pumps out
3)Leak at banjo connection to FIP, the diesel drips at the elbow. No crack visible may be it is back pressure from hose/clip connection.
4) Banjo connection attachment of leak off tubing to number one injector, is absolutely saturated (mush)
5) FIP - CANNOT tell, but looks as if it is leaking, for want of a better description, below the first layer above the electrical connection, looks as if seeping diesel (is this a gate valve of some sort?)
6) Fuel puddles at number one and number four injector.
I have now gone as far as I can, with my non-expertise and am just stuck as to what will get these child out of the house.
On the other note - Battery recharged, tested via meter and says, “replace“….but it handled all the load on the starting up scenarios and when hooked back up, did not lock me out or demand a code, only says windows need resetting.
My fellow P38 alumni….I await the wisdom and direction and fully appreciate EVERYTHING!
1) Used a can of Engine Start - and it almost caught, it went beyond a crank to a, “ I am willing”. If it was my Old Ford, I would have floored it and it would have caught and coughed into action.
2) pulled the fuel filter and fuel pumps out
3)Leak at banjo connection to FIP, the diesel drips at the elbow. No crack visible may be it is back pressure from hose/clip connection.
4) Banjo connection attachment of leak off tubing to number one injector, is absolutely saturated (mush)
5) FIP - CANNOT tell, but looks as if it is leaking, for want of a better description, below the first layer above the electrical connection, looks as if seeping diesel (is this a gate valve of some sort?)
6) Fuel puddles at number one and number four injector.
I have now gone as far as I can, with my non-expertise and am just stuck as to what will get these child out of the house.
On the other note - Battery recharged, tested via meter and says, “replace“….but it handled all the load on the starting up scenarios and when hooked back up, did not lock me out or demand a code, only says windows need resetting.
My fellow P38 alumni….I await the wisdom and direction and fully appreciate EVERYTHING!
Attachments
Datatek
Well-Known Member
1) With Easy Start it should have fired up.
3) I doubt it's back pressure, just a leaking joint.
4) Leak off pipes need replacing, use Gates tube.
5) Forget any possible leak from the FIP as it will not stop the engine running and you list so many other leaks that it must be hard to be certain that the FIP is leaking.
6) As for 4) leak off pipes need replacing.
Okay, I have some leak off pipes on order, so that will be done.
easy start should of started not sure what that means, as with intake off, and all air filter connections removed, not even sure I did it correctly, as this is my first diesel, being from a place of V8’s only…then also, the can was below pint size.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Pics help a lot 
1.5 m of pipe will replace the lot. You can leave the injector spills a little longer so if the ends do crack to heat/age you can cut them back next time. Usually with decent gates there isn’t a next time
1.5 m of pipe will replace the lot. You can leave the injector spills a little longer so if the ends do crack to heat/age you can cut them back next time. Usually with decent gates there isn’t a next time
Replace which pipping?Pics help a lot
1.5 m of pipe will replace the lot. You can leave the injector spills a little longer so if the ends do crack to heat/age you can cut them back next time. Usually with decent gates there isn’t a next time
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The leak off pipes on the injectors.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
A pint size can of Easy Start
All you need is a fine mist in the inlets whilst crankingOkay, my bad on spraying to much through the air filter inletA pint size can of Easy Start
will change the leak off when my order arrives.
cheers for the help
Thanks
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
All of it - 1.5m will do the injectors with a good length, FIP and all the way back including MAP
phone life
Word of advice when doing MAP to manifold so when you pull pipe off manifold you have new piece ready to go straight back on or can be a b*gger to find where the nipple is.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Or even snap off if your not careful ! 
The leak off pips
Beru glow plugs every time. Expensive but good and seem to last.
Leak off pipe needs to be the reinforced stuff, Gates.
Beware Easystart as it can kill engines. Immobiliser will put fuel solenoid so no fuel flows. Leak from top third would probably just be pump seal. A kit with all seals is around £20.
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Thanks for this info.
If immobiliser is somehow not allowing solenoid action, how is this tested; also would the engine still crank?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Usually if it’s immobilised there will be some sort of warning/dash message, unless it’s lost sync in which case it acts like yours is.
The stop solenoid is on the fuel injection pump, put your hand on it and you should feel/hear the click when someone turns the ignition on for you.
The stop solenoid is on the fuel injection pump, put your hand on it and you should feel/hear the click when someone turns the ignition on for you.
