tomcat59alan said:
Looking at the photo @synchro posted does the pipe clip into the top of the rad header tank? Perhaps a wooden implement could clip it back in place. What he needs is a gynecologist​
Click to expand...

i think it clips into the plastic molding, but since its unclipped i suppose the molding mightve given up.

i dont know if i can superglue it or something?? Maybe that will make the plastic brittle or it wont hold the heat of the coolant…? Sadly cant see anything towards the bleed pipe from the hose tunnel… due to the angle and length of the endoscope (camera is to long!)

i feel this is something of a superglue thing. But i wouldnt do it if the glue interferes or breaks down the radiator hoses or something..

funfact, did i say i sat on my radiator on another thread? That might be the reason its unclipped :D
 
synchro said:
i think it clips into the plastic molding, but since its unclipped i suppose the molding mightve given up.

i dont know if i can superglue it or something?? Maybe that will make the plastic brittle or it wont hold the heat of the coolant…? Sadly cant see anything towards the bleed pipe from the hose tunnel… due to the angle and length of the endoscope (camera is to long!)

i feel this is something of a superglue thing. But i wouldnt do it if the glue interferes or breaks down the radiator hoses or something..

funfact, did i say i sat on my radiator on another thread? That might be the reason its unclipped :D
Click to expand...
If you sat on the top tank then yes.i would be inclined to try and work along its unclipped length and try to reclip it.:D:D And no you saved that gem till now.
 
The other option is to maybe pull that pipe out, the amount of water that will flow through the hole left will not make much difference, getting the air out would.
looking at the inside and outside of the rad top that pipe should be clipped in all the way along the top on the left hand side.

i feel this might be the root of the problem all along.
 
brianp38dse said:
The other option is to maybe pull that pipe out, the amount of water that will flow through the hole left will not make much difference, getting the air out would.
looking at the inside and outside of the rad top that pipe should be clipped in all the way along the top on the left hand side.

i feel this might be the root of the problem all along.
Click to expand...
I would try to clip it back rather than remove it as it's there for a reason.I agree that this is the reason for the latest problem and any other stemming from post sitting on the radiator.:rolleyes::D
 
if this is the root of the problem im a dumb ass sitting on top of the radiator :D:D:D I kinda wish its my problem, since that will give me a boost that my car is actually not that bad..

If it actually fixes it... I mean, it is logical i assume? But it seems weird that a small amount of air would make it run hotter ay? Quite weird, but i'll see how it goes tomorow!

But still, i've had multiple issues with this car, pretty sure its due to neglected maintenance by previous owners.. My pollen filters were black and dusty filled with leaves :p

But i gotta say, if it aint this pipe. It sure must be something un-fixable as i've done every "basic" thing by now.
 
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Guys, might it be better to just get a second hand radiator?
After some googling about this, it seems that this pipe is quite important to fully purge/air out the system indeed... so hope is definetly up now.

A new rad would take to long time to arrive i think, as im lending a close ones car... But IF i need a new one, (i know theese buggers are hard to find) should i go with a nissens?
 
synchro said:
Guys, might it be better to just get a second hand radiator?
After some googling about this, it seems that this pipe is quite important to fully purge/air out the system indeed... so hope is definetly up now.

A new rad would take to long time to arrive i think, as im lending a close ones car... But IF i need a new one, (i know theese buggers are hard to find) should i go with a nissens?
Click to expand...

Nissens is the go to rad for price and quality
 
brianp38dse said:
Nissens is the go to rad for price and quality
Click to expand...


Ordered myself a brand new nissens radiator :) Probably time to change it anyhow.
200£ aint THAT shabby for a radiator, i mean if i went to a dealer they sure take 600£ to change it?? :D
It even was at online-store in Norway! so i dont need international shipping :D
 
synchro said:
Ordered myself a brand new nissens radiator :) Probably time to change it anyhow.
200£ aint THAT shabby for a radiator, i mean if i went to a dealer they sure take 600£ to change it?? :D
It even was at online-store in Norway! so i dont need international shipping :D
Click to expand...

Thats not a bad price they are about £140 here
 
Put a Nissens in mine maybe 5 or 6 years ago. The core depth is not as good as original but the only time it has ever struggled is on steep hills towing heavy loads with my foot in the carpet for extended times. In that instance the metal impeller water pump I have probably doesn't help much either. Fortunately such hills are never that long here.
 
synchro said:
if this is the root of the problem im a dumb ass sitting on top of the radiator :D:D:D I kinda wish its my problem, since that will give me a boost that my car is actually not that bad..

If it actually fixes it... I mean, it is logical i assume? But it seems weird that a small amount of air would make it run hotter ay? Quite weird, but i'll see how it goes tomorow!

But still, i've had multiple issues with this car, pretty sure its due to neglected maintenance by previous owners.. My pollen filters were black and dusty filled with leaves :p

But i gotta say, if it aint this pipe. It sure must be something un-fixable as i've done every "basic" thing by now.
Click to expand...
Well we've all got our fingers crossed that it cures your problem, you certainly tested the forums knowledge and powers of deduction especially when you throw it the odd curve ball, I don't think you can blame the previous owner for the radiator, that's down to you, they're not meant to be sat on.:rolleyes:. Anyway full marks for sticking with it,I'm sure changing the rad will sort the problem, better having it working properly rather than mask it with @Datatek 's word, a bodge.;) Good luck.
 
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Cheers guys :cool:
Will update when i have changed the rad and took it for a spin.

ill make sure to check the baffle ;)
Crossing fingers, toes and almost, yup you know what i mean :p
 
synchro said:
No, it does not exit my rad top. It must've broken off, it sits at the bottom (inside the radiator top) But it is, supposed to exit the rad.

In my head,


It doesnt slow down with the very folded paper tho. It doesnt eat it either. Car would be at idle 88celsius perhaps after running for a while (when i bleed it for example) , is that not high aswell?
When it idles and i use the heater it slowly goes down to 70-75 celsius.
Could i have a viscous, which is faulty, but wont "fail" the paper test?
Seized? (Note i am free to rotate the fan around the nut) if thats what seized means.

If the viscous was at fault, surely the car wouldnt run at 96 (in 80and climing with heater all the way on?


Please look at my wonderful painting the red line is my "white/copper pipe" @tomcat59alan View attachment 252985
Click to expand...
The pipe should not be as shown in your drawing, it should connect to the external pipe nipple. Inside the RAD it goes right across the top.
It does sound like the viscous is mal functioning. On the centre front, you will see a bi-metallic coil attached to a spindle that goes into the assembly. This shaft can seize which stops the temperature control of the fan.
I think you need to replace the RAD as one side of the RAD cannot be properly bled of air without the internal pipe in place.
 
Datatek said:
The pipe should not be as shown in your drawing, it should connect to the external pipe nipple. Inside the RAD it goes right across the top.
It does sound like the viscous is mal functioning. On the centre front, you will see a bi-metallic coil attached to a spindle that goes into the assembly. This shaft can seize which stops the temperature control of the fan.
I think you need to replace the RAD as one side of the RAD cannot be properly bled of air without the internal pipe in place.
Click to expand...

Superb. Its expected my nissens radiator will arrive by wednessday. If not thoursday.

I've seen the metallic coil you are talking about, it was quite "rusted"/brownish, but it seemed intact.
If viscous was malfunctioning wouldn't it stop by the paper test? Mine didnt, but it didnt eat paper either.. neither slowed down.. But i feel like its always on, aka the jet plane sound on every up hill....

So my viscous might be partially malfunctioning? I will make sure to test this when i've fitted my new radiator, will compare old and new temps.

Ive heard if viscous being seized, but would that not make the viscous not spin around the nut?

I have also compared spinning the viscous fan (cold engine) on another P38 DSE, seems to be similar resistant. Mine is equal hot and cold.

How can i test the shaft with the temperature control @Datatek ?
 
synchro said:
Superb. Its expected my nissens radiator will arrive by wednessday. If not thoursday.

I've seen the metallic coil you are talking about, it was quite "rusted"/brownish, but it seemed intact.
If viscous was malfunctioning wouldn't it stop by the paper test? Mine didnt, but it didnt eat paper either.. neither slowed down.. But i feel like its always on, aka the jet plane sound on every up hill....

So my viscous might be partially malfunctioning? I will make sure to test this when i've fitted my new radiator, will compare old and new temps.

Ive heard if viscous being seized, but would that not make the viscous not spin around the nut?

I have also compared spinning the viscous fan (cold engine) on another P38 DSE, seems to be similar resistant. Mine is equal hot and cold.

How can i test the shaft with the temperature control @Datatek ?
Click to expand...
You have just confirmed your viscous is seized. Freeing the temperature control shaft my or may not fix it. Penetrating oil on the shaft may free it off.
Throw the viscous away and fit my aircon fans mod.
 
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I ordered a new viscous @Datatek . It was a mahle brand. That's a good brand isnt it? I've heard its one of the preffered.
Even this was available in Norway. For same price of OEM from England, with toll and taxes.
Seems like next week will be quite a happy day for my rangie. New rad and viscous!
 
synchro said:
I ordered a new viscous @Datatek . It was a mahle brand. That's a good brand isnt it? I've heard its one of the preffered.
Even this was available in Norway. For same price of OEM from England, with toll and taxes.
Seems like next week will be quite a happy day for my rangie. New rad and viscous!
Click to expand...
Personally I prefer no viscous, quicker warm up, quieter interior and a marginal improvement in fuel consumption in winter.:D
 
synchro said:
I ordered a new viscous @Datatek . It was a mahle brand. That's a good brand isnt it? I've heard its one of the preffered.
Even this was available in Norway. For same price of OEM from England, with toll and taxes.
Seems like next week will be quite a happy day for my rangie. New rad and viscous!
Click to expand...
Nice one, personally I prefer to keep everything standard.;):D at least you'll be able to take the top of the radiator/ seat off to see where the pipe should fit.:D:D
 
Datatek said:
You have just confirmed your viscous is seized. Freeing the temperature control shaft my or may not fix it. Penetrating oil on the shaft may free it off.
Throw the viscous away and fit my aircon fans mod.
Click to expand...
That's assuming the a/c fans actually work.;)
 
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