This is the picture inside of the radiator. The end is the baffle. This is seen from the thermostat side. The white pipe sticks to the top, mines fallen down on the side where the bleed valve is, BUT i still have some flow from bleed pipe.
Might that pipe be something which messes with my radiator/flow?

After my road trip, car entered garage, temp gauge at red for solid 2 minutes, nanocom reads 84-85 celsius. I touch the hoses, they are hot as they should be duh, and i am able to squeeze. (not hard as rock)
Also undid my expansion cap, the normal hissing could be heard, nothing else. Coolant level does not go down in my runs. (past 2 runs 20km)

I am confident that 96 degrees is HOT when driving in 9 ambient, with heater on full ay? or am i wrong?
 

Attachments

  • 255900459_648234703221508_7659580894769885853_n.jpg
    255900459_648234703221508_7659580894769885853_n.jpg
    36.3 KB · Views: 81
synchro said:
This is the picture inside of the radiator. The end is the baffle. This is seen from the thermostat side. The white pipe sticks to the top, mines fallen down on the side where the bleed valve is, BUT i still have some flow from bleed pipe.
Might that pipe be something which messes with my radiator/flow?

After my road trip, car entered garage, temp gauge at red for solid 2 minutes, nanocom reads 84-85 celsius. I touch the hoses, they are hot as they should be duh, and i am able to squeeze. (not hard as rock)
Also undid my expansion cap, the normal hissing could be heard, nothing else. Coolant level does not go down in my runs. (past 2 runs 20km)

I am confident that 96 degrees is HOT when driving in 9 ambient, with heater on full ay? or am i wrong?
Click to expand...
With a working viscous fan, 96 degrees is hotter than I would expect in 9C ambient but it's a safe operating temperature and the gauge should not be past the mid point at that temperature.
 
synchro said:
This is the picture inside of the radiator. The end is the baffle. This is seen from the thermostat side. The white pipe sticks to the top, mines fallen down on the side where the bleed valve is, BUT i still have some flow from bleed pipe.
Might that pipe be something which messes with my radiator/flow?

After my road trip, car entered garage, temp gauge at red for solid 2 minutes, nanocom reads 84-85 celsius. I touch the hoses, they are hot as they should be duh, and i am able to squeeze. (not hard as rock)
Also undid my expansion cap, the normal hissing could be heard, nothing else. Coolant level does not go down in my runs. (past 2 runs 20km)

I am confident that 96 degrees is HOT when driving in 9 ambient, with heater on full ay? or am i wrong?
Click to expand...
From when I took my old rad apart the pipe looks to be in the correct position and does the end out of the photo, exit the rad top? This was a copper pipe on mine and was where the small pipe to the expansion tank fitted.
 
tomcat59alan said:
From when I took my old rad apart the pipe looks to be in the correct position and does the end out of the photo, exit the rad top? This was a copper pipe on mine and was where the small pipe to the expansion tank fitted.
Click to expand...

No, it does not exit my rad top. It must've broken off, it sits at the bottom (inside the radiator top) But it is, supposed to exit the rad.

In my head,
Datatek said:
With a working viscous fan, 96 degrees is hotter than I would expect in 9C ambient but it's a safe operating temperature and the gauge should not be past the mid point at that temperature.
Click to expand...

It doesnt slow down with the very folded paper tho. It doesnt eat it either. Car would be at idle 88celsius perhaps after running for a while (when i bleed it for example) , is that not high aswell?
When it idles and i use the heater it slowly goes down to 70-75 celsius.
Could i have a viscous, which is faulty, but wont "fail" the paper test?
Seized? (Note i am free to rotate the fan around the nut) if thats what seized means.

If the viscous was at fault, surely the car wouldnt run at 96 (in 80and climing with heater all the way on?


Please look at my wonderful painting the red line is my "white/copper pipe" @tomcat59alan
upload_2021-11-19_19-16-24.png
 
synchro said:
No, it does not exit my rad top. It must've broken off, it sits at the bottom (inside the radiator top) But it is, supposed to exit the rad.

In my head,


It doesnt slow down with the very folded paper tho. It doesnt eat it either. Car would be at idle 88celsius perhaps after running for a while (when i bleed it for example) , is that not high aswell?
When it idles and i use the heater it slowly goes down to 70-75 celsius.
Could i have a viscous, which is faulty, but wont "fail" the paper test?
Seized? (Note i am free to rotate the fan around the nut) if thats what seized means.

If the viscous was at fault, surely the car wouldnt run at 96 (in 80and climing with heater all the way on?


Please look at my wonderful painting the red line is my "white/copper pipe" @tomcat59alan View attachment 252985
Click to expand...
Your white pipe should not be at the angle you have drawn. The only thing I can think of is that with the pipe in that position your not getting full deflection of water by the baffle.its job is to direct water down to the bottom of the radiator to facilitate circulation, if some of the heated water has a path through the pipe to the top of the rad beyond the baffle then adequate cooling won't happen. Just a thought out for discussion.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Your white pipe should not be at the angle you have drawn. The only thing I can think of is that with the pipe in that position your not getting full deflection of water by the baffle.its job is to direct water down to the bottom of the radiator to facilitate circulation, if some of the heated water has a path through the pipe to the top of the rad beyond the baffle then adequate cooling won't happen. Just a thought out for discussion.
Click to expand...

I am sitting here wondering if i am in need of a new rad.
What if, this is just a thought*** The pipe, obviously connects at the top ay, so its on (should be) the "hot" side on RAD right? BUT, as pipe is off, i guess the "bleed pipe" draws coolant from the wrong "chamber/side of baffle" ??? This resulting in air not coming out?

What is the purpose of the pipe? It runs trough the baffle, but from the other side (non thermostat side) and out to the bleed-> expansion tank
 
Thinking about it, you obviously have access to an endoscope, so if you disconnect the rubber pipe that runs fro the expansion tank to the rad at the rad end.you have marked it as bleed pipe and push a piece of wire into the rad through it ,if you can see the wire with the endoscope then I would say that is your problem.the pipe should connect the top of the rad beyond the baffle
 
From your drawn picture of the rad you may well have air still in the right side of the rad, as the water comes in that side and then up on the left the vent tube end will be under water before the rad is full and will air lock the right side, you may get away with lifting that little pipe up it may well clip up in the top.
 
brianp38dse said:
From your drawn picture of the rad you may well have air still in the right side of the rad, as the water comes in that side and then up on the left the vent tube end will be under water before the rad is full and will air lock the right side, you may get away with lifting that little pipe up it may well clip up in the top.
Click to expand...
I tried this, but found it extremely hard due to the length of the plastic where the hose attaches.. Tried using a flat screwdriver to flip it up, but it just interferes with the plastic where the hose goes.. And my fingers aint long enough to reach it.
 
synchro said:
I am sitting here wondering if i am in need of a new rad.
What if, this is just a thought*** The pipe, obviously connects at the top ay, so its on (should be) the "hot" side on RAD right? BUT, as pipe is off, i guess the "bleed pipe" draws coolant from the wrong "chamber/side of baffle" ??? This resulting in air not coming out?

What is the purpose of the pipe? It runs trough the baffle, but from in the other side (non thermostat side) and out to the bleed-> expansion tank
Click to expand...
Sorry my tablets playing up.the pipe allows air to vent from the top of the tank and hot coolant to flow to the expansion tank.I think your right the pipe has snapped off so your not getting full circulation of the hot coolant. Try the wire and endoscope.you shouldn't see it as it should exit the other side of the baffle. If you can then it's a new radiator I'm afraid unless someone has another idea. If I haven't explained it clearly let me know and I'll get my crayons out.
 
synchro said:
I tried this, but found it extremely hard due to the length of the plastic where the hose attaches.. Tried using a flat screwdriver to flip it up, but it just interferes with the plastic where the hose goes.. And my fingers aint long enough to reach it.
Click to expand...

curved pair of long nose pliers?
 
It is possible to remove the rad top and carrying out a repair but the problem will be replacing it and making sure it's a good pressure tight seal.
 
brianp38dse said:
i dont think it connects on to the bleed pipe as that side of the rad would not vent properly as the rad hose drops down to the stat housing, the rad is the highest point.
Click to expand...
Thinking about it Brian your probably right,I wish I could remember when I took my old one apart. I wonder if a sturdy two pronged fork set up would bend the pipe through the inlet pipe?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Military series III, does it have a different water pump? Why?
Replies
13
Views
1K
Wolf Pack
W
T
Water Pump / Cam Belt
Replies
3
Views
371
Telluride08
T
tom1979
BEST Td5 Water Pump?
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
tom1979
tom1979
K
1997 110 300TDI For Sale
Replies
7
Views
688
Polski Boschski
Polski Boschski
dag019
200tdi not holding belt tension
Replies
14
Views
3K
dag019
dag019