brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
If you are putting a new rad in make sure it has a baffle fitted in the top tank, you can put a marble in it and see if it comes out the other end.
In the inter cooler?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
No, the coolant radiator.
Had me confused then. I'm only changing the inter cooler. It was the actual over flow / expansion pipe I broke, the spigot on the rad is ok thankfully!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
there is likely two or more small issues stealing your power. My FIP can pull through enough fuel without a pump if the tank is full but after a 40+mile run it gets over hot and problems arise. This will cause premature FIP failure I also get loss of power on long steep hills in 5th (R380)
Intercooler flushed made big difference to power on mine originally, was still clean last I checked and has the same leak as your (old) one
Thats the sort of news I like, am hoping it is something little now.
Intercooler arrived today, I like it when shiny things arrive, haha. And Nanocom......but resisting temptation to go play with it til all the bits back together again.
Still waiting for cooler hoses so didn't bother fitting cooler tonight. Map sensor not turned up yet either. Left old one hanging up and oil still coming out 4 days later!
Looked inside inlet manifold with inspection camera.....and it was minging!!! So took it off and went to town with gunk, set of boiler brushes and the jet wash. Couldn't believe it was that bad!
Then rain and wind stopped play for today.
Hopefully other bits will turn up tomorrow
(Lift pump will have to wait til next week as just won't have the hours spare to do it.)
That's bad. Shouldn't be that mucky in the inlet.
Might be worth taking the not-rocker cover off. In the top is a metal mesh that gets blocked. Clean all that out too. Gasket is an utter pita to get back on at the back where the half-moon shape is under the bulkhead. Spot of RTV glue helps on refitting.
Might be worth taking the not-rocker cover off. In the top is a metal mesh that gets blocked. Clean all that out too. Gasket is an utter pita to get back on at the back where the half-moon shape is under the bulkhead. Spot of RTV glue helps on refitting.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I never expected mine to be more than slow and steady. After doing what you are now it’s got plenty of poke without lift pump. I have alloy manifold so ground it down smoother inside, when I took it out to clean the crap out, as they are really rough. IAT was clogged up too and cleaned what I could of valves in the ports
You did your spill and map pipes previously IIRC?.
You did your spill and map pipes previously IIRC?.
Yep spill and map pipes all new. Hopefully see a lot of improvement once back together.
ok. Had time today to drop tank down and fit new Lift pump.
So all in all its now had, Replacement Auto box, New Lift pump, Intercooler, New silicone cooler and turbo hoses, new Map sensor, and new pipe for Map, Oil,Filter, Air filter, Diesel Filter......and still a bag of s**t !
Did seem a bit better and was at least dirveable. Nothing shows on Nanocom for engine or Auto box. Does show "failed to communicate with ecu" for ABS. (Light for which is now on permanently which is new) ?
Adjusted idle at fip to 750 using Nanocom. Did seem a little better for a few minutes.......then back to normal, painfully slow pulling away, revs to about 3500rpm before changing up, doesn't really do any thing unless foot virtually buried in carpet. 75mph flat out.
Then is gradually got worse again and was back to revving freely in neutral, but as soon as in drive or reverse, put foot down and.......nothing, revs dont climb car doesn't move forwards or backwards. Foot off throttle, wait a sec and apply light throttle and it will slowly move again?
Given up now, been out there 10 hrs messing about, dark and fed up totally!
Any one any ideas what to look at ?
Cheers.
So all in all its now had, Replacement Auto box, New Lift pump, Intercooler, New silicone cooler and turbo hoses, new Map sensor, and new pipe for Map, Oil,Filter, Air filter, Diesel Filter......and still a bag of s**t !
Did seem a bit better and was at least dirveable. Nothing shows on Nanocom for engine or Auto box. Does show "failed to communicate with ecu" for ABS. (Light for which is now on permanently which is new) ?
Adjusted idle at fip to 750 using Nanocom. Did seem a little better for a few minutes.......then back to normal, painfully slow pulling away, revs to about 3500rpm before changing up, doesn't really do any thing unless foot virtually buried in carpet. 75mph flat out.
Then is gradually got worse again and was back to revving freely in neutral, but as soon as in drive or reverse, put foot down and.......nothing, revs dont climb car doesn't move forwards or backwards. Foot off throttle, wait a sec and apply light throttle and it will slowly move again?
Given up now, been out there 10 hrs messing about, dark and fed up totally!
Any one any ideas what to look at ?
Cheers.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
should have noticeable gain after that
Now you have a nanocom the boys will get to bottom of it
Now you have a nanocom the boys will get to bottom of it
Haven’t looked at that yet. But did check on Nanocom engine speed/rpm increased when I pressed throttle.
Will check all switches/inputs/outputs when I get home.
If you put an SD card in you can record a trace (warm at idle first for a baseline) of each of the modules, zip the resultant CSV file into a .zip and upload it here. That way we can all see it too.
Might not mean anything but have you egr and is it blanked off Once had this on mine unplugged maf sensor near air filter and away she went . Faulty maf sending funny readings to ecu and caused problems. worth a try
Didn't get home from work til gone 10pm, but nipped out quickly to have a look. And Throttle position % does increase when throttle pushed.
As for Zip files etc, it takes me long enough to get on here and type, haha, so wouldn't know where to start as far as uploading things, I've only just mastered adding pictures to things, haha.
One thing I did notice tonight though was that even though I had Nanocom visable when i adjusted the Fip head yesterday, and tightened everything down at 750.something rpm idle, tonight it was back to showing 814 then jumping to 841 and back again? Idle high and Idle low both just state HIGH and Crank sensor position corresponds with Idle Rpm.
Guess I really need to get down to some serious reading to work out what the various inputs etc are actually telling me and what the should be etc.
Starting to really bug me know, just want to get out and about and cruise in comfort, but it is anything but a pleasant driving experience at the minute
Last edited:
Didn't get home from work til gone 10pm, but nipped out quickly to have a look. And Throttle position % does increase when throttle pushed.
As for Zip files etc, it takes me long enough to get on here and type, haha, so wouldn't know where to start as far as uploading things, I've only just mastered adding pictures to things, haha.
One thing I did notice tonight though was that even though I had Nanocom visable when i adjusted the Fip head yesterday, and tightened everything down at 750.something rpm idle, tonight it was back to showing 814 then jumping to 841 and back again? Idle high and Idle low both just state HIGH and Crank sensor position corresponds with Idle Rpm.
Guess I really need to get down to some serious reading to work out what the various inputs etc are actually telling me and what the should be etc.
Starting to really bug me know, just want to get out and about and cruise in comfort, but it is anything but a pleasant driving experience at the minute
Didn't get home from work til gone 10pm, but nipped out quickly to have a look. And Throttle position % does increase when throttle pushed.
As for Zip files etc, it takes me long enough to get on here and type, haha, so wouldn't know where to start as far as uploading things, I've only just mastered adding pictures to things, haha.
One thing I did notice tonight though was that even though I had Nanocom visable when i adjusted the Fip head yesterday, and tightened everything down at 750.something rpm idle, tonight it was back to showing 814 then jumping to 841 and back again? Idle high and Idle low both just state HIGH and Crank sensor position corresponds with Idle Rpm.
Guess I really need to get down to some serious reading to work out what the various inputs etc are actually telling me and what the should be etc.
Starting to really bug me know, just want to get out and about and cruise in comfort, but it is anything but a pleasant driving experience at the minute
I've never had to adjust anything in fuelling with the Nanocom. I know people sometimes increase the idle speed but that is just hiding the issue.
@wammers is the diesel master. We need him! There is some electrical gubbins in the top of the FIP. If that is gummed up it would cause issues but taking it apart and cleaning it isn't for the faint-hearted.
What is the timing modulation showing at warm idle?
Didn't get home from work til gone 10pm, but nipped out quickly to have a look. And Throttle position % does increase when throttle pushed.
As for Zip files etc, it takes me long enough to get on here and type, haha, so wouldn't know where to start as far as uploading things, I've only just mastered adding pictures to things, haha.
One thing I did notice tonight though was that even though I had Nanocom visable when i adjusted the Fip head yesterday, and tightened everything down at 750.something rpm idle, tonight it was back to showing 814 then jumping to 841 and back again? Idle high and Idle low both just state HIGH and Crank sensor position corresponds with Idle Rpm.
Guess I really need to get down to some serious reading to work out what the various inputs etc are actually telling me and what the should be etc.
Starting to really bug me know, just want to get out and about and cruise in comfort, but it is anything but a pleasant driving experience at the minute
I've never had to adjust anything in fuelling with the Nanocom. I know people sometimes increase the idle speed but that is just hiding the issue.
@wammers is the diesel master. We need him! There is some electrical gubbins in the top of the FIP. If that is gummed up it would cause issues but taking it apart and cleaning it isn't for the faint-hearted.
What is the timing modulation showing at warm idle?
I didn’t change and fueling settings in Nanocom, just used it to show me the live idle rpm while I adjusted the Fip manually.
Yes, think I need @wammers help on this one, please. I’m a gas engineer by trade so am used to going into pcb/boiler settings and parameters etc, but as I’ve said before diesels and P38’s are new to me so still very much on a learning curve. I need some help on this one now as I’ve done all I think I can do, without a guru point the way now. All help advice gladly accepted.
Cheers.
Hmmm, whilst I had the inlet manifold off (again!!) had a closer look at injector No4. I thought it had red heat shield on it.......turns out it’s red electrical tape! Guessing someone’s “pinched” it in between manifold and block at some point. Wires definitely been severely squashed, but couldn’t see any obvious breaks.
Is there a way to test what signal it’s getting/sending?
Assume if it’s giving poor signals it will affect the fueling? Also as ABS light is on would that put it into some sort of limp mode?
(Do i need a different lead to get Nanocom to communicate with Wabco D?
Cheers
Is there a way to test what signal it’s getting/sending?
Assume if it’s giving poor signals it will affect the fueling? Also as ABS light is on would that put it into some sort of limp mode?
(Do i need a different lead to get Nanocom to communicate with Wabco D?
Cheers
