gfromleeds said:
hi ive just got back from a good blast trying to get the engine hot and i think i may have found the problem.
the radiator dont seem that hot even though the pipes in are scalding
also certain areas it seems (cold)
could it be as simple as a blocked rad?
now do i use a good rad flush and risk opening up all the leaks that have been pluged for years or do i get a new rad?
when i first had the problem i noticed copper like fileings in the water and at the time thought nothing of it, now ive had time to think..is it a block sealer k-seal type of stuff???
and if its holding off a headgasket leak will useing a rad flush unblock k-seal in the rad and will it unblock the plug in the headgasket causeing even more problems?
Click to expand...


yes also it sounds as if there is so much in there its blocked your rad up.

stat worth a try first the reverse flush the rad with a hose!
 
mozz smith said:
hi, p.m. me an ill give you my no and poss help you before you start spending daft money .cheers mozz:)
Click to expand...
hi mate spent most the afternoon doing the card trick you said.except i dint have any card so i used an old white bed sheet its not leaking any water just the oil i mensioned (seems it might be the sump gasket but that can wait for another day) also the water level dont change once its cooled back down.
im thinking i might reverse flush the rad see if it helps
can this be done whilst fited or will i have to take it off?
if i have to take it off how big of a job is it? ie. is it somthing i can do after work? im home around 4.30 and have a well lit garage.
 
yes now worries getting it done in an evening , you could do it in the car but its much more effective to take it out where you can move it around and get all the crap out and obviously the water doesnt flow that well uphill for backflushing lol
 
My old Diesel Disco used to run normal except when towing, then the temp would creep up and up.

Turned out that the rad was goosed, new rad and everythin fine. (had flushed the old one out BTW and all seemed ok)

Petrols will overheat when towing if the ign is a bit retarded. The extra throttle you give it when towing retards the ignition even more and overheats the motor. When running lighter throttle the vac advance kicks in and advances it enough to run ok....just a thought.:)
 
landowner said:
My old Diesel Disco used to run normal except when towing, then the temp would creep up and up.

Turned out that the rad was goosed, new rad and everythin fine. (had flushed the old one out BTW and all seemed ok)

Petrols will overheat when towing if the ign is a bit retarded. The extra throttle you give it when towing retards the ignition even more and overheats the motor. When running lighter throttle the vac advance kicks in and advances it enough to run ok....just a thought.:)
Click to expand...

Thought the ignition was all sorted by the Ecu
it is a thought though it does idle abit rough sometimes
 
gfromleeds said:
Thought the ignition was all sorted by the Ecu
it is a thought though it does idle abit rough sometimes
Click to expand...

I didn't realise it was a newish one.

Crank sensor could have been knocked or slipped, it is poss even with a sophisticated ECU

Not as likely as a knackered rad though, my old rad actually burst whilst I was towing my mate home and we had to swap rads on the side of the motorway. I had cleaned it all out as well and it was clear, must be the fins etc not doin the job.:)
 
Just a check
how does the viscous fan work?
I mean it spins with the engine on but i can stop it quite easyly

How hot will it need to be before it kicks into full speed or does it not work that way
 
gfromleeds said:
Just a check
how does the viscous fan work?
I mean it spins with the engine on but i can stop it quite easyly

How hot will it need to be before it kicks into full speed or does it not work that way
Click to expand...


If you can stop it with the engine up to temperature it's knackered:eek:
 
Datatek said:
If you can stop it with the engine up to temperature it's knackered:eek:
Click to expand...
what normal running temp?
little over half way up the guage?
how does it kick in? ie.. electrical/mecanical/magnetic? cos all i can see attached is the spinning shaft thats suporting it
 
Last edited:
datatec has a fix to use your a/c fans to assist cooling when towing if everything checks out ok.it does sound as if you have an underlying problem.i had similar prob which was down to viscous fan knackered
 
tomcat59alan said:
datatec has a fix to use your a/c fans to assist cooling when towing if everything checks out ok.it does sound as if you have an underlying problem.i had similar prob which was down to viscous fan knackered
Click to expand...
yea i bypased the ac fans to get me home
but since then ive been looking at verious things
i know the radiator is partly blocked as the middle seems cold ie. i can hold my hand in the middle quite comfertably but at the edges and the pipes it burns cant hold on for more that a second or two
but today i thought about looking at the fan and at running temp i could still stop the fan with my hand (in a glove)
 
the viscous fan cuts in as there is a fluid in it which stiffens with heat and locks up the fan clutch. hence the name.
You shouldnt be able to stop it with your hand when its full up to temp, your brave for trying lol.

I think they are only about £40, just buy one and try it and back flush your rad too before you cook your poor old engine and slip a liner!
 
fett said:
the viscous fan cuts in as there is a fluid in it which stiffens with heat and locks up the fan clutch. hence the name.
Click to expand...
AHH
would this be a brake/steering fluid looking kind of stuff? cos i had a leak a month or so back that i couldnt find where it was coming from! then after a few days it stoped! never did find were it came from.
that said if it was that, it would be all over the fan and cowling wouldnt it?
 
dont know about your model but the diesel viscous coupling comes compleat with the fan at around £120 last time i bought one.next time i think ill go for a kenlow electric fan.
 
paddocks will be cheapest for one but it may be britpart.

if you know the part number I found LR direct the best place!

last time I bout one for a mw it was £40 for a oem one. not sure of the fluid colour but could be!
 
If rad is cold in the middle its blocked, dont waste your time trying to flush it it never works just change it and hope its not too late, been down this road with cars that have ally rads they look perfect from the outside but the tubes can be blocked solid !
 
true , i did an engine change for a farmer a few years ago ,after fitting engine got hotter than normal checked rad which wasnt cooling all over ,he had bolted viscous so was solid and wired aircon fans on all the time but still wouldnt believe that he needed new rad ,he was convinced that engine fault caused need for extra cooling and why hadnt i fitted better engine ,even after changing rad and running normally he was still convinced id ****ed rad ,where is the logic in some peoples head
 
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