guys electric fans come on when the sensor tells it to, not when the engine over heats.
On the cooling system the thermostat opens first , then when the second sensor gets warmer then the fans come on and when it cool down a little the fan go off. All with in the proper operating temp of your motor,

Wrong, the electric fans are normally called by the trinary aircon switch. On the V8 the engine ECU can also call them under certain conditions i.e. above a preset engine temperature.
Primary cooling is via the viscous fan.
 
Wrong, the electric fans are normally called by the trinary aircon switch. On the V8 the engine ECU can also call them under certain conditions i.e. above a preset engine temperature.
Primary cooling is via the viscous fan.


Is not the trinary aicon switch a sensor? What tells the triary aircon swtch to work?
 
Well I've got it home today
I rewired the electric fans to run permanent and kept a hawk eye on the temp guage
She ran hot (not in the red , last white line before red) and she got me home 80 miles
Only problem is when I started her up this morning I noticed white smoke from the exhaust which cleared after a few minutes don't know if the headgaskets gone or it was just condensation
Gona let it cool overnight and see if there's any pressure in the cooling system
anyone think of any other checks worth doing
If the headgasket has gone do you think it was the cause of the overheat or the result? bearing in mind i used the car whilst I was away and she ran fine. normal temp for 20 miles through the hills
 
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Well I've got it home today
I rewired the electric fans to run permanent and kept a hawk eye on the temp guage
She ran hot (not in the red , last white line before red) and she got me home 80 miles
Only problem is when I started her up this morning I noticed white smoke from the exhaust which cleared after a few minutes don't know if the headgaskets gone or it was just condensation
Gona let it cool overnight and see if there's any pressure in the cooling system
anyone think of any other checks worth doing
If the headgasket has gone do you think it was the cause of the overheat or the result bearing in mind i used the car whilst I was away and she ran fine normal temp for 20 miles through the hills
head gasket. A little water getting into clyinder and burning of as steam. May not build pressure into cooling system at this time. Change head gasket and check head for warpage.At this time in the game you could save the cost of a new head.
 
well condensation from cold start is normal part of the warm up cycle.

he needs to be looking for steam cleaned or wet plugs, maybe a sniff test etc if its getting serious.

I wonder if his tank cap is holing enough pessure- that used to cause my mates old studebaker to cook on a long run lol
 
theres not anyone near leeds that can take a look for me is there?
ill supply all the tea and bacon buttys you can consume whilst heer!!
ive been to my usual spanner slinger and he just said "change water pump,radiator ,thermostat and headgasket"
sounds like a lot of £££ when it could only one thing that has gone

how do i check the water pump ??
 
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First thing to do is get a sniff test done. Most garages can do them. Mine cost me £20. My Mechanic told me to get the engine to operating temperature and then I revved it while he squeezed the top and bottom hoses. He reckoned if they dont go solid it aint a head gasket fault. He said take out the thermostat and see if that cures it. If it does buy a proper oem one not a **** after market one.
Good luck with it. I am going to take my caravan out tomorrow to see if my dhse is still overheating with the 'van behind it, fingers crossed!
 
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only bought this car a month or so ago because my last one got nicked and burned
maybe i should have taken the hint lol
no seriously now anyone know how to check the water pump?
 
not sure on that one mate, but they are not that expensive and a novices days work to change, just dont break any bolts :p
 
not sure on that one mate, but they are not that expensive and a novices days work to change, just dont break any bolts :p
i know there quite cheep but like you say a quick job can turn into a right headache real quick when bolts snap and they are 14 years old. so if its possable id rather check as meny parts as i can whilst there still fitted to the car.
 
I agree, but omlett-eggs etc

dont get a britpart one if you do get one. I think quinten hazel do one which should be nice.

you could try thermostat and a rad back flush first as they are cheaper
 
i know there quite cheep but like you say a quick job can turn into a right headache real quick when bolts snap and they are 14 years old. so if its possable id rather check as meny parts as i can whilst there still fitted to the car.



:welcome2:hi , where are you up to with your problem ??? cheers mozz
 
:welcome2:hi , where are you up to with your problem ??? cheers mozz

hi ive just got back from a good blast trying to get the engine hot and i think i may have found the problem.
the radiator dont seem that hot even though the pipes in are scalding
also certain areas it seems (cold)
could it be as simple as a blocked rad?
now do i use a good rad flush and risk opening up all the leaks that have been pluged for years or do i get a new rad?
when i first had the problem i noticed copper like fileings in the water and at the time thought nothing of it, now ive had time to think..is it a block sealer k-seal type of stuff???
and if its holding off a headgasket leak will useing a rad flush unblock k-seal in the rad and will it unblock the plug in the headgasket causeing even more problems?
 

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