Hi,

I'm new to the forum. Consider me a complete amateur.

Please could somebody suggest a suitable, reasonably priced (i.e. < £100) OBD scanner for my Freelander project?

Background: my son and I have a Freelander from the first year of manufacture 1997, L-series 2.0 diesel engine. It has been stood in a garage for 5 years and we are struggling to get it started. The fuel hand pump primer was nibbled by rodents (thanks mice!) so we have replaced that + oil filter, brand new battery and cranks fine but won't start. It will turn over with Quick Start Spray. We will change the oil and oil filter of course.

No coil light coming up on dash and no probs with fuse or relay for this or the fuel pump. I can see the (?number 4) glow plug is externally very rusted so assume it (and the others) could do with replacing.

Before attempting that challenge I thought it best to obtain some DTCs. My OBD scanner won't read it as it is a cheap one for modern cars. I've seen a few OBD scanner models on e-bay but none that say explicitly that they will read my landy.

Any help with the scanner or other issues would be gratefully received. Thanks for your time.

Cheers.

I think the cheaper units are the iCarsoft (maybe renamed now) or the pscan.

There are threads on which diagnostic devices to use.

Have you changed the fuel?

Do you know why it was laid up? Was it starting before it was laid up? Check the wire from no 1 injector. Trouble starting can be the injection pump belt stretching, it throws the timing.

A standard OBD2 code reader won't read the EDC module, as it's not OBD2 compliant. In my experience, not even the Icarsoft I930 will read the early L series EDC.

However as above, if you've not replaced the fuel, it's unlikely to run on it. Diesel has a guaranteed shelf life of 6 months, after which time it'll start to degrade.

I'd hook the fuel supply into a can of clean diesel, using the bulb pump to pull the fuel through to the injection pump.

I'd also crack the injector lines at the injectors to flush out the old diesel by pumping the hand pump.

It's also worth checking the pump belt for slack, as a retarded pump will really hamper starting.

GrumpyGel said:

I think the cheaper units are the iCarsoft (maybe renamed now) or the pscan.

There are threads on which diagnostic devices to use.

Have you changed the fuel?

Do you know why it was laid up? Was it starting before it was laid up? Check the wire from no 1 injector. Trouble starting can be the injection pump belt stretching, it throws the timing.

Click to expand...

Cheers for the reply.

I'll have a look at those.

It belonged to an elderly relative who stopped driving but he wouldn't let us maintain it properly. It was starting fine when he first left it. I started it a couple of times in the 2 years after but it began cutting out after 5-10secs.

I've considered changing the fuel but the tank is full and I'm not sure how I could store 60 litres or dispose of it safely.

I appreciate your help! Thanks.

Nodge68 said:

A standard OBD2 code reader won't read the EDC module, as it's not OBD2 compliant. In my experience, not even the Icarsoft I930 will read the early L series EDC.

However as above, if you've not replaced the fuel, it's unlikely to run on it. Diesel has a guaranteed shelf life of 6 months, after which time it'll start to degrade.

I'd hook the fuel supply into a can of clean diesel, using the bulb pump to pull the fuel through to the injection pump.

I'd also crack the injector lines at the injectors to flush out the old diesel by pumping the hand pump.

It's also worth checking the pump belt for slack, as a retarded pump will really hamper starting.

Click to expand...

Thanks very much for your advice.

I will certainly try to get rid of the old fuel and try your trick with the fuel can.

Please can you explain what you mean by cracking the injector lines?

Much appreciated.

Where are you based? My be a kind forum member that has one would lend it to you

doctortom2001 said:

Thanks very much for your advice.

I will certainly try to get rid of the old fuel and try your trick with the fuel can.

Please can you explain what you mean by cracking the injector lines?

Much appreciated.

Click to expand...

The injector lines are the metal pipes that are connected to the injectors. These really need to be cleared of old fuel, so fresh fuel can get to the injectors quickly.

Understood. Thank you.

Madmustang said:

Where are you based? My be a kind forum member that has one would lend it to you

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. I'm in West Yorkshire, a village called Notton between Wakefield and Barnsley. If anybody could lend me one that would be much appreciated.