wiltshire landyman said:

yep all of them

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Your VALVES were bent??

Guys, I've got an issue thats been bothering me for the past couple of weeks.

New big battery 100amps installed.
If I crank in the morning, it starts
If I drive for 10mins and turn it off, it barely turns the engine and it wont start.

Measured my alternator. It gives out 13.6V with lights on, and doesnt drop when I rev up.

Took the battery back as a defective and got a new one today, same thing.

I checked the ground cable on the starter motor side and its good, even added a couple thick grounds of my own directly on the chassis and battery negative and no go.

If I jump start the car with a small saloon car, it cranks very quickly and fires up immediately.

What could it be ????

You sure they didnt give you the same battery back?

it seems that your battery dies while running... that voltage it's quite at the limit...see this link and make the test described at the bottom of the page with the full load Land Rover Discovery & Defender TD5 Series 2 Alternator Regulator 98-06 Starter Motor Kits the alternator also could give you voltage but if only one or two diodes are dead in the rectifier it would cause drain.... check the drain with A-meter

Ah true ! So you're saying that I might get the current, but not the juice !!!

New rectifier costs about 30 euros so I'll do my checks

I re-checked everything.

Its got to be the starter

Yes does sound like starter is faulty.

Incidentally any improvement in the Hi-Lo stiffness? After changing the transferbox oil and greasing the mechanism to the shift mine has loosened up nicely. I spent a good 20 mins putting it back and forth between Hi and Lo and it gradually got better and better.

Hope yours is resolved also?

Havent done anything to mine yet mate, just usage, it might be a bit better from hi to low, but locks is very hard. Especially low lock. Thats the hardest.

I talked to an autoelectrician friend of mine. He recons its the starter as well.
I hope it doesnt cost much to refurb it, as I'm also buying a front bumper for it this month and I've got plenty of other expences too

supercharged16v said:

Panels off quite easily. Much easier with front bumper off first

These after an hour and a half of work:

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NiCe car, don't suppose that is your alfa too

Thanks Yes it is ;-)

Really been messing with my head lately.

New battery, alternator charging at 13.8 volts, grounds checked, starter refurbished, no losses found.

Car starts when cold, drive it for 30 mins, then it barely turns the engine.

Got a replacement battery, same thing.
But when I jump start it, it fires right up !

Any ideas ???

Problem SOLVED !!!!

Turns out, the Engine Grounds weren't as good as I thought they were !
Easy fix, but it was messing with my head because I was ruling it out !


Guys, I need:
Both Sunroof Mechanisms
An airbag sensor (AMR2705)
a controller switch for the electric front left seat
a sunvisor clip

Any ideas where I can get these parts ?

Been too long , I need to get my stuff together...

Right, The car has passed through its MOT, but in order to re-register it back on the road I need to fix a few more things...

First of all, after my last posts, I repaired the lights, replaced the airbag crash sensor, repaired the rear bumper, replaced the leaking fuel filler neck hose, changed all 4 discs and pads and cleaned the ABS sensors, installed a rear trailer arm (genuine), replaced the snapped handbrake cable, propshaft rubber mount, exhaust back box, and I've got a pair of sunroof mechs coming in 5 days...

Right now, the car is been treated with some new leather for the front seats. The roof liner will be done after the sunroof mechanisms arrive, so I'll just take it off once.


I have a few more problems that I would love to get some help if possible:

1 - ABS light wont go off - found that the RR sensor says its faulty (paperclip test 1:2:15) is that right ? If so, I'll order one to come

2 - Some things dont work: Rear windows, the circulation button of the heater, the A/C button, the Cruise control buttons, rear wiper and water jet dont work. I am assuming/hoping that these are all related to one box ?

3 - My SRS light wont go off even after I changed the steering wheel spiral and the crash sensors, the airbag fuse on the fuse box blows as soon as it touches :/

4 - This is a strange one.... hoping to find the fault without paying 200 Euros to get the car on the diagnostics computer !!! The "Check Engine" light goes on and off whenever it wants to. When it does, the car stops pulling going uphill and gets really annoying. The strange thing about the light going on, is that I might just have the ignition on, and without starting the engine, it goes off, then on again, then after a few seconds off, then on and immediately off again, and so on. This happends while I'm driving as well ! I can hear the click clicks of the relay and I see the light going on and off. I've checked EVERY POSSIBLE contact, and I cant find anything wrong there. What I have noticed is that sometimes, it goes on when I hit a pothole, sometimes it goes off when I'm going uphill, sometimes it just stays on, and some times it doesnt go on for more than 20 mins of driving. Its driving me mad !


Any advice, will be GREATLY appreciated as I've got the car booked for its re-registration appointment at the ministry of transport on the 19th of December :/

Also, now that I know (pretty much) what I'm working with, could one of the Administrators please move my thread to the Disco 1 section ?

I cant help you with much, but the rear wiper may start working again if you take the lid off the mechanism box and see if it needs a good clean out..
My rear wiper did not work because of all the crud that got into the box. I cleaned it all out n re greased it and now it works well, though a bit noisy.
The washer will probably be the pump on the bottle. They are easy to replace..

I am assuming you have checked the fuses first..

supercharged16v said:

Been too long , I need to get my stuff together...

4 - This is a strange one.... hoping to find the fault without paying 200 Euros to get the car on the diagnostics computer !!! The "Check Engine" light goes on and off whenever it wants to. When it does, the car stops pulling going uphill and gets really annoying. The strange thing about the light going on, is that I might just have the ignition on, and without starting the engine, it goes off, then on again, then after a few seconds off, then on and immediately off again, and so on. This happends while I'm driving as well ! I can hear the click clicks of the relay and I see the light going on and off. I've checked EVERY POSSIBLE contact, and I cant find anything wrong there. What I have noticed is that sometimes, it goes on when I hit a pothole, sometimes it goes off when I'm going uphill, sometimes it just stays on, and some times it doesnt go on for more than 20 mins of driving. Its driving me mad !


Any advice, will be GREATLY appreciated as I've got the car booked for its re-registration appointment at the ministry of transport on the 19th of December :/

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I'm assuming your car is a TDi 300 auto with EDC (Electronic Diesel Control), is that correct?

If that's the case, then I would suggest you look at two areas:

1. the accelerator pedal has an electrical potentiometer on it, not normal Bowden cable. These bits can become faulty over the years and send daft messages to the ECU and trigger the 'Limp home' mode that you are suffering. If it's this, replacement is the only long-lasting solution. They are cheapo from UK scrapyards. You need the pedal assy with the electrical bit attached.

2. The Crank sensor - pretty much the same story as above, but you need to locate it and check to see if it is correctly installed and clean, before buying another.

Good luck and Happy Christmas to you,

Dave

Yeah I've checked all fuses. I can get my hands on a new rear wiper mech today, so No real issues there, I'll probably take your advice though first.

The real issues though that need to be sorted are the ABS which I hope its the code I found and they will be fixed after I replace the sensor, the SRS which needs to go away if the car will pass through re-registration, and that frikkin Check engine which might have something to do with the EGR ????

thebiglad said:

I'm assuming your car is a TDi 300 auto with EDC (Electronic Diesel Control), is that correct?

If that's the case, then I would suggest you look at two areas:

1. the accelerator pedal has an electrical potentiometer on it, not normal Bowden cable. These bits can become faulty over the years and send daft messages to the ECU and trigger the 'Limp home' mode that you are suffering. If it's this, replacement is the only long-lasting solution. They are cheapo from UK scrapyards. You need the pedal assy with the electrical bit attached.

2. The Crank sensor - pretty much the same story as above, but you need to locate it and check to see if it is correctly installed and clean, before buying another.

Good luck and Happy Christmas to you,

Dave

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thanks Dave, how do I check the pedal though if it works ? You have a very good point there with the pedal. Regarding the crank sensor though, I believe the car wouldnt start with the check engine light on and a faulty crank sensor ? Or am I wrong ?

supercharged16v said:

thanks Dave, how do I check the pedal though if it works ? You have a very good point there with the pedal. Regarding the crank sensor though, I believe the car wouldnt start with the check engine light on and a faulty crank sensor ? Or am I wrong ?

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First of all can you confirm it's an EDC car or not?

If it is, then one way you could try to test it is:

1. Turn the ignition to pos II, then without starting the engine slowly press throughout the full range of the pedal to see if it triggers the EDC light - don't know if this will work without the engine running, but it stops you thrashing the guts out of her, unnecessarily; if it doesn't work then try doing it with the engine running.

2. Check the voltages across the pins, sorry I don't know which off-hand. They should vary throughout the pedal travel, but sometimes the tracks get worn and the signal drops out for a second, this is what triggers the engine light.

On TD5 there are at least two tracks and some have three. The first two track combined should always add up to 5v, they will vary through the travel but the sum of the two should always be 5v.

Dave

I cant remember, I'll have a look later. Thanks

I'm running out of time.... to say that in 2 days time I'll be able to have it sorted is highly optimistic...

The guy who's doing the leather seats for me will have it ready this afternoon, so all I've got time to do is take off those computer boxes off and check for dry joints to see if the windows and other features start to work....

I will keep you updated