I still have the old coil packs and leads, but testing is a bustard.
Does anyone know where to get extensions to the coil packs?
I have seen old postings and alike on relocating them. But cant seem to find a local (and affordable) setup.
Really all I would need are the harness extension leads. I can make up the rest myself.
 
It's all low tension 12v so cut/lengthen/waterproof the joins and job done? The coil packs don't need to be earthed if you want to relocate
 
Update and thoughts.

Defiantly has more punch on petrol than the gas, but not a big difference. But at low revs is noticeable.

I also thought to try something the other day. Which was to put it into low range drive to pull off.
That worked to a point to get me up the slope easier. But gear changes are quicker, top speed is not that much, so so if about town and I can here a slight whine from the gearbox ( probably from a direct drive gear I am guessing ).

I have not yet, but will be checking the ATF levels. Got some on order.

With misfiring on 4 , 6 and 2 .... 2 being on a separate coil pack to 4 and 6 .... The engine running smooth when faults are cleared ( for a short time) .... Is there a possibility that there is a ECU problem?!?

The other thing, is that there might be a back pressure issue. But I though that I had ruled that one out.
Hard to test in place as both exhaust pipes go through the cats, then join to one pipe under the passenger side, then split again to exit out the back via two box's on the corners. ( why if joining them will they split them again ??? )
Now the cat on that side seems to be clear, but might be enough to make the ECU confused?

Also, might be important. But when parked, in gear and foot on the break, you can't rev the engine. So no power. That's why I thought torque converter in the beginning.
 
Also, might be important. But when parked, in gear and foot on the break, you can't rev the engine. So no power. That's why I thought torque converter in the beginning.

That's what a stall test is.
And you should get some response up to a point.
Wondering if TPS is playing up

I cant find the values for a stall test. I am going to ask @sierrafery if he has "stall test" figures for a V8 4.0L disco, cos they should be similar/same.

J
 
That's what a stall test is.
And you should get some response up to a point.
Wondering if TPS is playing up

I cant find the values for a stall test. I am going to ask @sierrafery if he has "stall test" figures for a V8 4.0L disco, cos they should be similar/same.

J
I don't know the V8, but torque convertors normally stall at around 2500 to 3000 rpm.
 
Could it just be your cams are worn? That will give low power, misfires, will run worse on lpg etc
That's what I said. I thought my old 4.6 GEMS was fine (& still do) until recently when I got my project P38 on the road. That has 4.0 GEMS but with new CAM, Rings & fully cleaned head, block, inlet, re-lapped valves, etc. Rebuilt one is much much quicker. Both have all sensors working correctly.
 
That's what I said. I thought my old 4.6 GEMS was fine (& still do) until recently when I got my project P38 on the road. That has 4.0 GEMS but with new CAM, Rings & fully cleaned head, block, inlet, re-lapped valves, etc. Rebuilt one is much much quicker. Both have all sensors working correctly.
It's a very forgiving engine, cams can wear almost to nothing and it will still run.
In my case an exhaust cam wore away completely
 
Could it just be your cams are worn? That will give low power, misfires, will run worse on lpg etc
I know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).
But even if so ( without ever seeing this engines insides before ) , they should still have some lift to open the valves enough.... should they not?
The last time I did ant engine work, was YEARS ago. It was on an old Ford Capri with an essex v6 engine with some hefty upgrades to all running gear. Great fun and enjoyment, but now days with little time , a place to work and needing to actually use the car to get around , I will need to choose what and when to maximise time spent.
I am new to the Rover crowd, so am glad for any info and help.
 
I know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).
But even if so ( without ever seeing this engines insides before ) , they should still have some lift to open the valves enough.... should they not?
The last time I did ant engine work, was YEARS ago. It was on an old Ford Capri with an essex v6 engine with some hefty upgrades to all running gear. Great fun and enjoyment, but now days with little time , a place to work and needing to actually use the car to get around , I will need to choose what and when to maximise time spent.
I am new to the Rover crowd, so am glad for any info and help.
Little time to DIY and Range Rovers don't go together.
 
I know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).
But even if so ( without ever seeing this engines insides before ) , they should still have some lift to open the valves enough.... should they not?
The last time I did ant engine work, was YEARS ago. It was on an old Ford Capri with an essex v6 engine with some hefty upgrades to all running gear. Great fun and enjoyment, but now days with little time , a place to work and needing to actually use the car to get around , I will need to choose what and when to maximise time spent.
I am new to the Rover crowd, so am glad for any info and help.
The camshaft in the rv8 is rubbish, once the hard surface wears, the rest will follow in hundreds of miles or less
If still got the one i took out of my 4.0, one cam has literally zero left on it, several others are well on the way. But, it still ran, just with 'issues'.
Lack of servicing ie frequent oil changes doesn't help, plus it's why so many of us bleat on about pull with added zddp eg. the valvoline vr1
 
See these photos over just taken. First photo, the cams #3 and #4 look a bit worn but ok and good profile height.
Second photo #1 is well worn, #2 is completely missing, #3 is well worn.
17036104771200.jpg
17036105140471.jpg
 

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