Tempus
Member
Yes. unplugging will cause it to die
Don't know about on the petrol but on diesel the MAF unplugged resorts to preset settings in ECU and is an indicator of faulty MAF if engine improves.
Could be but it's simple to check if the gear indicator is in the dash or not
Yes they are both the same
Tempus
Member
I still have the old coil packs and leads, but testing is a bustard.
Does anyone know where to get extensions to the coil packs?
I have seen old postings and alike on relocating them. But cant seem to find a local (and affordable) setup.
Really all I would need are the harness extension leads. I can make up the rest myself.
Does anyone know where to get extensions to the coil packs?
I have seen old postings and alike on relocating them. But cant seem to find a local (and affordable) setup.
Really all I would need are the harness extension leads. I can make up the rest myself.
Tempus
Member
Update and thoughts.
Defiantly has more punch on petrol than the gas, but not a big difference. But at low revs is noticeable.
I also thought to try something the other day. Which was to put it into low range drive to pull off.
That worked to a point to get me up the slope easier. But gear changes are quicker, top speed is not that much, so so if about town and I can here a slight whine from the gearbox ( probably from a direct drive gear I am guessing ).
I have not yet, but will be checking the ATF levels. Got some on order.
With misfiring on 4 , 6 and 2 .... 2 being on a separate coil pack to 4 and 6 .... The engine running smooth when faults are cleared ( for a short time) .... Is there a possibility that there is a ECU problem?!?
The other thing, is that there might be a back pressure issue. But I though that I had ruled that one out.
Hard to test in place as both exhaust pipes go through the cats, then join to one pipe under the passenger side, then split again to exit out the back via two box's on the corners. ( why if joining them will they split them again ??? )
Now the cat on that side seems to be clear, but might be enough to make the ECU confused?
Also, might be important. But when parked, in gear and foot on the break, you can't rev the engine. So no power. That's why I thought torque converter in the beginning.
Defiantly has more punch on petrol than the gas, but not a big difference. But at low revs is noticeable.
I also thought to try something the other day. Which was to put it into low range drive to pull off.
That worked to a point to get me up the slope easier. But gear changes are quicker, top speed is not that much, so so if about town and I can here a slight whine from the gearbox ( probably from a direct drive gear I am guessing ).
I have not yet, but will be checking the ATF levels. Got some on order.
With misfiring on 4 , 6 and 2 .... 2 being on a separate coil pack to 4 and 6 .... The engine running smooth when faults are cleared ( for a short time) .... Is there a possibility that there is a ECU problem?!?
The other thing, is that there might be a back pressure issue. But I though that I had ruled that one out.
Hard to test in place as both exhaust pipes go through the cats, then join to one pipe under the passenger side, then split again to exit out the back via two box's on the corners. ( why if joining them will they split them again ??? )
Now the cat on that side seems to be clear, but might be enough to make the ECU confused?
Also, might be important. But when parked, in gear and foot on the break, you can't rev the engine. So no power. That's why I thought torque converter in the beginning.
That's what a stall test is.
And you should get some response up to a point.
Wondering if TPS is playing up
I cant find the values for a stall test. I am going to ask @sierrafery if he has "stall test" figures for a V8 4.0L disco, cos they should be similar/same.
J
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I don't know the V8, but torque convertors normally stall at around 2500 to 3000 rpm.
That's what I said. I thought my old 4.6 GEMS was fine (& still do) until recently when I got my project P38 on the road. That has 4.0 GEMS but with new CAM, Rings & fully cleaned head, block, inlet, re-lapped valves, etc. Rebuilt one is much much quicker. Both have all sensors working correctly.
It's a very forgiving engine, cams can wear almost to nothing and it will still run.
In my case an exhaust cam wore away completely
Tempus
Member
I know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).
But even if so ( without ever seeing this engines insides before ) , they should still have some lift to open the valves enough.... should they not?
The last time I did ant engine work, was YEARS ago. It was on an old Ford Capri with an essex v6 engine with some hefty upgrades to all running gear. Great fun and enjoyment, but now days with little time , a place to work and needing to actually use the car to get around , I will need to choose what and when to maximise time spent.
I am new to the Rover crowd, so am glad for any info and help.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Little time to DIY and Range Rovers don't go together.
The camshaft in the rv8 is rubbish, once the hard surface wears, the rest will follow in hundreds of miles or less
If still got the one i took out of my 4.0, one cam has literally zero left on it, several others are well on the way. But, it still ran, just with 'issues'.
Lack of servicing ie frequent oil changes doesn't help, plus it's why so many of us bleat on about pull with added zddp eg. the valvoline vr1
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Suppose the solution would be to make the cams out of zddp so itβs constantly added to the mix 
I suppose it's 1/10th of a penny cheaper just coating three surfacesSuppose the solution would be to make the cams out of zddp so itβs constantly added to the mix
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Just very poor quality IMO. Lack of depth to the hardening and/or poor material in the first place.
