Hey all only my second post on here just lookin for abit of help because my accelerator isn't working. The car is a late 2002 defender TD5 and the engine runs fine and always has done but when it used to go in water about a foot deep the engine managment light came on and the throttle didn't work but after it dried it always corrected itself. This time I was going through a puddle on a road that normal cars were going through about 8-10 inchs deep and the throttle just cut-out with the engine managment light on but now it's being drying out for over 2 weeks and still the accelerator wont work but the engine run's perfectly. I can drive the car in low range on tick over but at only 10mph so I am faced with having to pay £60 just to get it recovered to a garage. Hopefully I can sort it myself so I can avoid getting it recovered. Also can anyone recomend the best garage out of Jake Wright's in burley, Discovery centre in pool or simmonites in bradford.I've had a search through previous threads but can't find any that match my problem thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions and great forum youv'e got here

i dont know anything about TD5's but it sounds like water is getting to your ECU or conector to the throttle under the bonnet as your throttle is "fly-by-wire".

have a look at the ECU under the seat and see if its wet/damp and seal your batt box to prevent water ingress. it may also be a good idea to looking into repositioning it up higher, out of the way. you can get these leads from X eng and some other places.

also look under the bonnet to see where the connections are to the injection pump... if thats where your throttle goes...

G

Griffdowg said:

i dont know anything about TD5's but it sounds like water is getting to your ECU or conector to the throttle under the bonnet as your throttle is "fly-by-wire".

have a look at the ECU under the seat and see if its wet/damp and seal your batt box to prevent water ingress. it may also be a good idea to looking into repositioning it up higher, out of the way. you can get these leads from X eng and some other places.

also look under the bonnet to see where the connections are to the injection pump... if thats where your throttle goes...

G

Click to expand...

It hasn't got an injection pump.
Start thinking you have flooded the throttle potentiometer with dirty water.
It is down on the floor area operated by the throttle pedal.
Daft idea, and daft way to fit such a vital item.

CharlesY

Big Ash said:

Hey all only my second post on here just lookin for abit of help because my accelerator isn't working. The car is a late 2002 defender TD5 and the engine runs fine and always has done but when it used to go in water about a foot deep the engine managment light came on and the throttle didn't work but after it dried it always corrected itself. This time I was going through a puddle on a road that normal cars were going through about 8-10 inchs deep and the throttle just cut-out with the engine managment light on but now it's being drying out for over 2 weeks and still the accelerator wont work but the engine run's perfectly. I can drive the car in low range on tick over but at only 10mph so I am faced with having to pay £60 just to get it recovered to a garage. Hopefully I can sort it myself so I can avoid getting it recovered. Also can anyone recomend the best garage out of Jake Wright's in burley, Discovery centre in pool or simmonites in bradford.I've had a search through previous threads but can't find any that match my problem thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions and great forum youv'e got here

Click to expand...

If you take a look at the green and white wire on the bottom left (as you look from above) of the black plug on the ECU. If this wire is broken or damaged the throttle won't work but engine will start perfectly. Don't be afraid of disconnecting the plug (when engine off) you will probably be able to see it better.
Maybe worth a try!

Hey all, prob sorted itself for a while and keeps coming back with avengance so looking for a bit more advice on what to do next. The Accelerator used to cut out straight away when I went in water and the engine managment light came on but recently the car stutters ALOT when I accelerate and if I continue to letit do it then the accelerator cuts out. I have changed the throttle potentiometer which is also the throttle position sensor. The car drives fine for about 10-20 miles after driving through the water now and then starts stuttering. I took the car to my local LR specialist where they connected it to the computer stuff this was the list of problems:

Driver demand 1 logged low
Ambient pressure circuit fault logged low
Inlet air temp circuit fault logged high
Coolant temp circuit fault logged high
Aircon fan drive open load fault logged
Tacho drive open load fault logged
Aircon clutch drive open load fault logged
Aircon fan drive open load fault active
Tacho drive open load fault active
Aircon clutch drive open load fault active
High speed crank sync lost fault logged
Driver demand 2 out of range fault logged
Faults detected with driver demand logged
Engine speed outside bounds for cruise(where fitted) active
Vehicle speed outside bounds for cruise(where fitted) active

Since this they suggested I change the throttle potentiometer which is also the throttle position sensor which I did but it hasn't made any difference does anyone have any advice also when it does the stuttering it has power and then suddenly cut's and then has power again and help is much appreciated Thanks in advance James

To whom it may concern.
I work at a landrover dealership as a tech and have recently came across a similar fault.
The vehicle idles and starts no problem, but just won't rev up.
Had the vehicle on T4 diagnostics and checked real time data for driver demand 1, 2 & 3. Voltages were moving up and down when pedal pressed. so appeared pedal potentiometer was working okay. Checked for the supply to pedal, even carried out continuety and resistance checks on wiring from pedal to ECU, All checked out okay.
Called landrover technical and was told to try ECU as we had already substituted pedal. Fitted ECU and prorammed injector codes and new security code, but still didn't work!!
Called technical again, this time i was told to splice new wiring from pedal to ecu, did this to all the wiring and fault was still there.

Pulling my hair out and still not getting anywhere, i started checking other wiring to the ECU. With vehicle running i was getting 13.82v at pin 30 on the ecu(green/white wire). This wire goes to the instrument cluster.
Took dash out (two screws) and dis-connected multi-plug( if sitting in drivers seat, the multiplug on the left) it has the green and white wire.

With the multi plug dis-connected, i started the vehicle and it will now rev up!!
There must have been a short in instument cluster causing a wrong signal to the ecu and giving a driver demand problem
A new one is on order and costs just over £100 + vat.

Hope this helps someone, as it took the best part of 2 days to find the fault.

Please note that i haven't quoted connector numbers etc from wiring diagrams as i'm writing this from memory at home.

To whom it may concern.
I work at a landrover dealership as a tech and have recently came across a similar fault.
The vehicle idles and starts no problem, but just won't rev up.
Had the vehicle on T4 diagnostics and checked real time data for driver demand 1, 2 & 3. Voltages were moving up and down when pedal pressed. so appeared pedal potentiometer was working okay. Checked for the supply to pedal, even carried out continuety and resistance checks on wiring from pedal to ECU, All checked out okay.
Called landrover technical and was told to try ECU as we had already substituted pedal. Fitted ECU and prorammed injector codes and new security code, but still didn't work!!
Called technical again, this time i was told to splice new wiring from pedal to ecu, did this to all the wiring and fault was still there.

Pulling my hair out and still not getting anywhere, i started checking other wiring to the ECU. With vehicle running i was getting 13.82v at pin 30 on the ecu(green/white wire). This wire goes to the instrument cluster.
Took dash out (two screws) and dis-connected multi-plug( if sitting in drivers seat, the multiplug on the left) it has the green and white wire.

With the multi plug dis-connected, i started the vehicle and it will now rev up!!
There must have been a short in instument cluster causing a wrong signal to the ecu and giving a driver demand problem
A new one is on order and costs just over £100 + vat.

Hope this helps someone, as it took the best part of 2 days to find the fault.

Please note that i haven't quoted connector numbers etc from wiring diagrams as i'm writing this from memory at home.

wow...........you should post on here more offen....i hope your about when i have my next problem....

I was looking for answers on the forum, surfing nearly 100 pages before i found a similar fault. Didn't appear that technical at Landrover had come accross that fault.
Unfortunately, i only found a similar fault and all the advice given hadn't come close to the checks that i'd already carried out

So spent another day plugging away.
Not sure how often i will be on the forum, generally pretty sorted with the manufacture back up and the wealth of experience with-in the workshop.

Keep a note of my user name as i'm sure you can contact members through the forum.
I'll try my best but no promises.

Well its good that you put it down here now anyway, so when people search they come up with your answer.

It may not have helped Big Ash, but im sure it will help others.

Thnks for your input.

G

Just letting folks know the new instrument cluster cured the problem. The accelerator is now functioning normally.

When i took the instrument cluster out, i found two resisters were looking a bit scorched around the circuit board.
The price for the cluster was £102 + vat. ( that is the price for a vehicle with-out ABS)

Hope this helps cut the diagnostic time down for the next person.

Thanks to the guys for their comments.

Just thought i'd leave a message regarding the "no acceleration" Fault. had another TD5 Defender in the dealership with the same problem. This time the fault was caused by the wiring loom being chaffed down by the transfer box.

When you look underneath, follow the main wiring loom as it goes by the transfer box, it had rubbed through on the left hand side between the body and box.

Hope this helps a few.

P.S
this vehicle would occasionally lose the use of the accelerator.

Hi there, Big Ash, I'm having what sounds exactly the same problem as you, I was wondering if you tried an instrument cluster and if it worked? As seems a little unexplainable when it only does it after been through water? I have tried all the usual things, checked over all the wiring looms, cannot see any damage. I have even tried to replicate the fault on dry days by soaking engine bay/ wiring harnesses. Any suggestions would be welcomed guys.
Ps mines a 56 plate td5 90.
Many thanks
Jonathon87

jonathon87 said:

Hi there, Big Ash, I'm having what sounds exactly the same problem as you, I was wondering if you tried an instrument cluster and if it worked? As seems a little unexplainable when it only does it after been through water? I have tried all the usual things, checked over all the wiring looms, cannot see any damage. I have even tried to replicate the fault on dry days by soaking engine bay/ wiring harnesses. Any suggestions would be welcomed guys.
Ps mines a 56 plate td5 90.
Many thanks
Jonathon87

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There are usually 2 versions of the fault. The first being the one described on this thread. The second, which is more common, is the loss of the 5v feed to the throttle pot. This same feed also goes to the map and maf sensors. Ideally you want to pop it on a diagnostic or else get your multi meter out to check for the feed. Chafed, exposed wires shorting are the usual reason for this issue.

Big Ash said:

Hey all only my second post on here just lookin for abit of help because my accelerator isn't working.

Click to expand...

It was fitted as a fuel saving system to get the LR through the Euro 5 emissions control.