Reduces the gearing, so you do less turns of the wheel. this video explains it.
I was going to say you have missed a clamp on the end f the track rod to drag threaded joint.
Reduces the gearing, so you do less turns of the wheel. this video explains it.
I honestly don’t know. It was recommended by a bodyshop paint specialist. I’ll make further enquiries. ThanksHi I used polyurethane a gloss, isn't 2K a hard paint? It will chip easy if it's hard?
Same opinion as I have, not a fan of 2k at all, and it is difficult to work with on top. Much prefer traditional paint, my preference for most things is oxide primer and tractor/machine enamel. Then with a wax coating over the top where necessary.I don't like 2 pack at all. As you say, much too hard, and tends to come off in sheets, or lift, allowing water to run underneath.
I much prefer regular paint and primer.
Same opinion as I have, not a fan of 2k at all, and it is difficult to work with on top. Much prefer traditional paint, my preference for most things is oxide primer and tractor/machine enamel. Then with a wax coating over the top where necessary.
This is what I am using: LINK (first found on google not necessarily best value) but I am coming to the end of my 20l tin so will need to look at what to get next. I can highly recommend this paint master one though, it has done land rovers, all of my tractor, and lots of wheels. I have just stripped off the 110 wheels I painted with it about 8 years ago ready to repaint and it was hard work to get it off the rim with a wire wheel back to bare metal.Can you still get Oxide primer these days, most of what I see is Acrylic (water) based ...
You can. And you can get Corroless, and you can get real red lead primer again, although it is very expensive.Can you still get Oxide primer these days, most of what I see is Acrylic (water) based ...
Google Traditional Boat Supplies. Red Lead Paint, Red Lead Putty, and Red Lead Powder, so you can make both for yourself.I think you can (for classic cars only) get the old red lead paint but for professional use only
I'm using 2k trawler paint. Epoxy zinc phosphate primer and epoxy mastic aluminium rich anti corrosion layer. Seems to stick well. With a 2k top coat. Time will tell.
Is this actually any good? I was drawn in by the reviews and recommendations so bought a tin of it (at great expense) and have used it on parts I have refurbished during my 110 rebuild, and also it for my trailer. the rebuild parts I cannot tell yet as that has only just gone back on the road but it does not seem that hard wearing on the trailer, and I painted some of my tow hitch pins (for pintle below) which rarely get used and it did not last very well at all and the pins very quickly became rusty again. Time will tell for the rest of it but I was not impressed with the results so far and was expecting better things given the write ups it gets.And you can get Corroless,
reported!
Wasn't me. It was @Wildefalcon . He said the word trawler!reported!
You cannot turn this into a boat thread!
They make lots of different products, the one I use is Corroless S2 Primer.Is this actually any good? I was drawn in by the reviews and recommendations so bought a tin of it (at great expense) and have used it on parts I have refurbished during my 110 rebuild, and also it for my trailer. the rebuild parts I cannot tell yet as that has only just gone back on the road but it does not seem that hard wearing on the trailer, and I painted some of my tow hitch pins (for pintle below) which rarely get used and it did not last very well at all and the pins very quickly became rusty again. Time will tell for the rest of it but I was not impressed with the results so far and was expecting better things given the write ups it gets.
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I believe this is the one I am using LINK as their glass chassis paint, although I have not used it on a chassis, but so far has not been as good as I was expectingThey make lots of different products, the one I use is Corroless S2 Primer.
I find it is excellent, but I don't buy it via Buzzweld, or any re-seller.
I go to Corroless, and pick up 5litre tins over the counter. It is good value bought like that.
The boss of Corroless said to me on the phone years ago that he didn't rate that much after all the good toxins got taken out.I believe this is the one I am using LINK as their glass chassis paint, although I have not used it on a chassis, but so far has not been as good as I was expecting
I would agree with that, I think a good red oxide and the machine enamel gloss I have been using give a much harder wearing finish although takes a couple of weeks to fully harden.The boss of Corroless said to me on the phone years ago that he didn't rate that much after all the good toxins got taken out.
The S2 primer is still OK, I just use cheap exterior gloss as topcoat now.
I have been using Rustoleum Black Exterior Gloss, quite good. US made, American stuff usually works.I would agree with that, I think a good red oxide and the machine enamel gloss I have been using give a much harder wearing finish although takes a couple of weeks to fully harden.