I don't like 2 pack at all. As you say, much too hard, and tends to come off in sheets, or lift, allowing water to run underneath.

I much prefer regular paint and primer.
Same opinion as I have, not a fan of 2k at all, and it is difficult to work with on top. Much prefer traditional paint, my preference for most things is oxide primer and tractor/machine enamel. Then with a wax coating over the top where necessary.
 
Same opinion as I have, not a fan of 2k at all, and it is difficult to work with on top. Much prefer traditional paint, my preference for most things is oxide primer and tractor/machine enamel. Then with a wax coating over the top where necessary.

Can you still get Oxide primer these days, most of what I see is Acrylic (water) based ...
 
Can you still get Oxide primer these days, most of what I see is Acrylic (water) based ...
This is what I am using: LINK (first found on google not necessarily best value) but I am coming to the end of my 20l tin so will need to look at what to get next. I can highly recommend this paint master one though, it has done land rovers, all of my tractor, and lots of wheels. I have just stripped off the 110 wheels I painted with it about 8 years ago ready to repaint and it was hard work to get it off the rim with a wire wheel back to bare metal.

Screwfix also look like they do an oil based red oxide primer (LINK) but I have never used it so say if it is any good.
 
I think you can (for classic cars only) get the old red lead paint but for professional use only
 
I think you can (for classic cars only) get the old red lead paint but for professional use only
Google Traditional Boat Supplies. Red Lead Paint, Red Lead Putty, and Red Lead Powder, so you can make both for yourself.
 
I'm using 2k trawler paint. Epoxy zinc phosphate primer and epoxy mastic aluminium rich anti corrosion layer. Seems to stick well. With a 2k top coat. Time will tell.
 

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Bonda prima is a good anti corrosion one , quite a few of us on here use it, its real old school full of stuff that the main stream suppliers cant use but its done for classic use.
 
And you can get Corroless,
Is this actually any good? I was drawn in by the reviews and recommendations so bought a tin of it (at great expense) and have used it on parts I have refurbished during my 110 rebuild, and also it for my trailer. the rebuild parts I cannot tell yet as that has only just gone back on the road but it does not seem that hard wearing on the trailer, and I painted some of my tow hitch pins (for pintle below) which rarely get used and it did not last very well at all and the pins very quickly became rusty again. Time will tell for the rest of it but I was not impressed with the results so far and was expecting better things given the write ups it gets.

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Is this actually any good? I was drawn in by the reviews and recommendations so bought a tin of it (at great expense) and have used it on parts I have refurbished during my 110 rebuild, and also it for my trailer. the rebuild parts I cannot tell yet as that has only just gone back on the road but it does not seem that hard wearing on the trailer, and I painted some of my tow hitch pins (for pintle below) which rarely get used and it did not last very well at all and the pins very quickly became rusty again. Time will tell for the rest of it but I was not impressed with the results so far and was expecting better things given the write ups it gets.

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They make lots of different products, the one I use is Corroless S2 Primer.

I find it is excellent, but I don't buy it via Buzzweld, or any re-seller.

I go to Corroless, and pick up 5litre tins over the counter. It is good value bought like that.
 
They make lots of different products, the one I use is Corroless S2 Primer.

I find it is excellent, but I don't buy it via Buzzweld, or any re-seller.

I go to Corroless, and pick up 5litre tins over the counter. It is good value bought like that.
I believe this is the one I am using LINK as their glass chassis paint, although I have not used it on a chassis, but so far has not been as good as I was expecting
 
I believe this is the one I am using LINK as their glass chassis paint, although I have not used it on a chassis, but so far has not been as good as I was expecting
The boss of Corroless said to me on the phone years ago that he didn't rate that much after all the good toxins got taken out.
The S2 primer is still OK, I just use cheap exterior gloss as topcoat now.
 
The boss of Corroless said to me on the phone years ago that he didn't rate that much after all the good toxins got taken out.
The S2 primer is still OK, I just use cheap exterior gloss as topcoat now.
I would agree with that, I think a good red oxide and the machine enamel gloss I have been using give a much harder wearing finish although takes a couple of weeks to fully harden.
 
I would agree with that, I think a good red oxide and the machine enamel gloss I have been using give a much harder wearing finish although takes a couple of weeks to fully harden.
I have been using Rustoleum Black Exterior Gloss, quite good. US made, American stuff usually works.

Just got a litre of Wilko Black Exterior Gloss, 10 year guarantee. Not opened it yet, but I should think it is pretty good stuff.

Wilko / Woolworth paints I have always found pretty good.
 
Bad news, found rust in the bulkhead, ordered some replacement panels and the vent surround, lots of small bits done today, and did some bit to sell, so they look presentable and grad some money back to pay for the rebuild
 

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