LOGS_IN_BOGS said:
Thanks @jwrrc
Yep I'm definitely hoping to get the chassis completely secure for the future. Precisely, since having a lift I don't believe it's going to be necessary for the stuff I do, not worth the drivability problems. I firmly believe that landrovers are a Great starter project car apart from the rust. I use to have a Jeep, absolute nightmare!
Click to expand...
Unless you're rock crawling, big lifts are mostly aesthetic. Personally, I don't prefer the lifted look, and don't do any rock crawling, so the added handling of stock ride height is a no brainer.
I do like a Jeep (woodies and XJs are lovely) and they can't be as bad as 1970s Italian cars (makes the Rovers look rust proof!) or anything bloody French. Need to change a healight bulb? Step 1, remove your front wheels and bumper... :mad:
I've had panels off in the last few weeks to sort out my fuel tank breather and the whole affair was comically simple. There are more complicated Lego sets out now!
Hope your work keep progressing, you'll end up with a beautiful Landy they way you're going!
 
Well done for sticking with it! Although for a moment I thought I’d found a disco rear axle for my 90... :rolleyes::(

The idea of more subtle modifications is better than the lifted rock crawler when it comes to early discoveries in my opinion. Looking forward to seeing the end result.

And the Canal Trophy. That could take off... :Do_O
 
Gave her a good deep jetwash today, nice and clean now however I have been left with my heart sinking further due to sights being seen that cannot be unseen. However the rust that I uncovered isn't to horrendous enough for me to quit just yet. Does anyone know what gauge metal the chassis is made from?

20211230_133718.jpg
 
Happy new year @Hicap phill. I’m still here, just relocated to hampshire and traded my fender in for a new pickup due to needing it for work and play.
I still have my d1 and the 110 project just haven’t touched either since moving - they’re still in Wiltshire.
@LOGS_IN_BOGS once the latest waves have died down and the shooting season is over I’d be happy to have a coffee with you and run through some bits. I think I’ll move my d1 to my house at some stage
 
Oh and in answer to your question a few people use 3mm but I used 2 and that matches the original. Be mindful of crush tube locations and the strengthening sections (they look like crescents) on the inside of the box around rear centre member.
 
resto_d1 said:
Happy new year @Hicap phill. I’m still here, just relocated to hampshire and traded my fender in for a new pickup due to needing it for work and play.
I still have my d1 and the 110 project just haven’t touched either since moving - they’re still in Wiltshire.
@LOGS_IN_BOGS once the latest waves have died down and the shooting season is over I’d be happy to have a coffee with you and run through some bits. I think I’ll move my d1 to my house at some stage
Click to expand...

thanks for that @resto_d1 , glad your still around. I may ask you some other questions at some stage. I'll post them in this thread for the benefit of other people later on. I've started work on the chassis now, every time i go underneath i find another little area with a hole in it. Painful to say the least. The method i've adopted at the moment is to cut out the diseased area and fill in the with a new piece of metal but weld it together and then grind it flat so it doesn't look like its been repaired. I will try and post a step by step photo later on but for now here is one completed area;

20220104_123909.jpg




the things I'm having to deal with!!


20220104_123929.jpg
 
LOGS_IN_BOGS said:
thanks for that @resto_d1 , glad your still around. I may ask you some other questions at some stage. I'll post them in this thread for the benefit of other people later on. I've started work on the chassis now, every time i go underneath i find another little area with a hole in it. Painful to say the least. The method i've adopted at the moment is to cut out the diseased area and fill in the with a new piece of metal but weld it together and then grind it flat so it doesn't look like its been repaired. I will try and post a step by step photo later on but for now here is one completed area;

View attachment 255968



the things I'm having to deal with!!


View attachment 255970
Click to expand...

Hi,

That looks a bit familiar! Underside of the chassis at the bottom of the dip either side of the fuel tank? I had to do the inside faces there too on my Range Rover as well as the bottom from about where the tow bar/tie down points are to the anti roll bar mounts. Just keep plugging away one bit at a time and you’ll get there in the end. It’s only steel at the end of the day and it looks like you’re perfectly capable of doing a smart job from the photo of the completed patch.

Keep up the good work.

Rich
 
RAW111111 said:
Hi,

That looks a bit familiar! Underside of the chassis at the bottom of the dip either side of the fuel tank? I had to do the inside faces there too on my Range Rover as well as the bottom from about where the tow bar/tie down points are to the anti roll bar mounts. Just keep plugging away one bit at a time and you’ll get there in the end. It’s only steel at the end of the day and it looks like you’re perfectly capable of doing a smart job from the photo of the completed patch.

Keep up the good work.

Rich
Click to expand...

Yess indeed, I had to cut the tube where the bolt goes through, i nearly left it but then i thought no don't be stupid! yep, im going to work on it in sections, so that i hopefully dont miss anything.
 
what do people think about this. the rear crossmember is completely gone, theres no way its just a patch up job. a new one is £150 and I'm not willing to pay that. Can you just put some box section in?
 
LOGS_IN_BOGS said:
what do people think about this. the rear crossmember is completely gone, theres no way its just a patch up job. a new one is £150 and I'm not willing to pay that. Can you just put some box section in?
Click to expand...
You can but i didn’t have the skill. I welded a bar between the rear door to stop it splaying and it was literally cut out old and fit new. You’ve got things like the door pivot to consider too. The yrm one fits a dream
 
resto_d1 said:
You can but i didn’t have the skill. I welded a bar between the rear door to stop it splaying and it was literally cut out old and fit new. You’ve got things like the door pivot to consider too. The yrm one fits a dream
Click to expand...

i hadnt thought about that, i ,ight have to have a bit of a rethink
 
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