All very impressive MHM, especially if its derived from A Skyline with its 600horses.

But wouldnt it be cheaper just to buy an x-trail???

We need simple mods at low costs
 
Miles000 said:
You ony need one front and one rear wheel jacking to turn the shaft.........

Rave advises not to drop VCU first under any circumstances - do both ends first. Took me about an hour as a first time job.
Click to expand...


You jack both front and rear to give a good arms working distance. You could do the whole thing with all wheels on the ground and a compressor spanner.

If you removed both ends first then VCU all single handed, then I assure you that it will take you even longer to replace it that way.

You try lifting the whole weight of the prop, balancing a bolt in the other hand and spanner in the other.... you'll be there all day mate. Better to remove in line.

RAVE and haynes are being anal about the delicacy of the VCU, just dont bang it about and you'll be grand
 
LR1796 said:
All very impressive MHM, especially if its derived from A Skyline with its 600horses.

But wouldnt it be cheaper just to buy an x-trail???

We need simple mods at low costs
Click to expand...

I reckon budgetary figures circa £500. which sounds a lot, but if it ensures no vcu probs, no buggered ird, rear tyres etc etc etc and is fully switchable from the dash then I would think that would be realistic. I wouldnt expect anyone to change unless their VCU was shot, so you take ,wot, £380-£400 off the price - thats not a bad fix is it?

I aint saying this is a deffo - just that there are other (better) systems out there - someone mentioned the Frontera - that uses a vacuum system, which is also an option:D - lets just keep looking and playing. If we can find a fix - isnt that wot a forum such as this is about?

If yu want a cheap fix - take out the props and VCU - but then why buy a 4wd, incurr every politicians wrath (see ova freds), pay thru the nose and not gain any benefit.


dont let me stop yu buying a slitty if yu want tho:D:D - just dont tell Minge ;):p
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
I reckon budgetary figures circa £500. which sounds a lot, but if it ensures no vcu probs, no buggered ird, rear tyres etc etc etc and is fully switchable from the dash then I would think that would be realistic. I wouldnt expect anyone to change unless their VCU was shot, so you take ,wot, £380-£400 off the price - thats not a bad fix is it?

I aint saying this is a deffo - just that there are other (better) systems out there - someone mentioned the Frontera - that uses a vacuum system, which is also an option:D - lets just keep looking and playing. If we can find a fix - isnt that wot a forum such as this is about?

If yu want a cheap fix - take out the props and VCU - but then why buy a 4wd, incurr every politicians wrath (see ova freds), pay thru the nose and not gain any benefit.


dont let me stop yu buying a slitty if yu want tho:D:D - just dont tell Minge ;):p
Click to expand...

For a few hundred notes, you cant go wrong. Funny you should mention other wagons. A mate and his misses are expecting their first child, they wanted a 4x4 for safety, he asked about the FL and I had to say no..... they are high maintenance.

Suzuki are doing great deals with their range and you get a low box in the grand Vitara. Plus they are about £6k less than the new FL and they look better
 
LR1796 said:
You jack both front and rear to give a good arms working distance. You could do the whole thing with all wheels on the ground and a compressor spanner.

If you removed both ends first then VCU all single handed, then I assure you that it will take you even longer to replace it that way.

You try lifting the whole weight of the prop, balancing a bolt in the other hand and spanner in the other.... you'll be there all day mate. Better to remove in line.

RAVE and haynes are being anal about the delicacy of the VCU, just dont bang it about and you'll be grand
Click to expand...

After doing all this do you need to block up the holes or just leave as they are :confused:

edit: no holes, duh, just me confusing prop with drive shaft
 
if yu want it to work quick - yu can always use explosive bolts front and rear:eek:

not quite sure how to re-fix it tho:D
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
yu disagreeing, Minge?
how wud yu describe the VCU design?
quote] i think the freelander vcu design was a clever idea, as it takes the back lash out the system,the downturn is it prown to goin u/s, and if they had put a mag clutch jist afore the vcu it would be a fantastic system. . .but they never so were stuck wif it, i do like the nissan system though, see you would git better mpg on 2wd but if you do need more traction jist a flick of a switch , i dont know how the freelander would drive if it was solid [do away wif vcu and fit summit else]. . .
Click to expand...
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
if yu want it to work quick - yu can always use explosive bolts front and rear:eek:

not quite sure how to re-fix it tho:D
Click to expand...

Excuse me Mr.dealer but my hippo had expolsive bolts font and rear, They all do thAT sir! you'll find that was just your IRD and Final drive going bang. :D

MONDO - seeing as this thread is devoted to you howcome no input??

How does your FL get through the MOT without a prop ftted?
 
it aint an MOT item is it? I wud have thort it wud be "if its there its gotta be good else it dont matter" - a bit like a spare tyre.?
 
ming said:
The Mad Hat Man said:
yu disagreeing, Minge?
how wud yu describe the VCU design?
quote] i think the freelander vcu design was a clever idea, as it takes the back lash out the system,the downturn is it prown to goin u/s, and if they had put a mag clutch jist afore the vcu it would be a fantastic system. . .but they never so were stuck wif it, i do like the nissan system though, see you would git better mpg on 2wd but if you do need more traction jist a flick of a switch , i dont know how the freelander would drive if it was solid [do away wif vcu and fit summit else]. . .
Click to expand...


There are two trains of thought:

For the earlier FL devise something thats fits to front half of prop, then let the VCU worry about the slip. If the slip is 0.8% does this mean that the slip is 3 degrees out of one full rotation of the VCU???

For the later type (which according to Ianh1 had thE front diff ratio changed and stronger seals/bushes in the rear diff) do away with VCU and fit a snazzy alternative
Click to expand...
 
LR1796 said:
ming said:
There are two trains of thought:
For the earlier FL devise something thats fits to front half of prop, then let the VCU worry about the slip. If the slip is 0.8% does this mean that the slip is 3 degrees out of one full rotation of the VCU???
For the later type (which according to Ianh1 had thE front diff ratio changed and stronger seals/bushes in the rear diff) do away with VCU and fit a snazzy alternative
Click to expand...

why invent two systems? Its gonna be difficult to get one, let alone two. If a simple!!!? switching mech can be achieved - it can be used either supplimentary to or instead of the VCU, depending on where it is fitted. Ideally supplimentary, because that would suit both systems.
Click to expand...
 
LR1796 said:
Excuse me Mr.dealer but my hippo had expolsive bolts font and rear, They all do thAT sir! you'll find that was just your IRD and Final drive going bang. :D

MONDO - seeing as this thread is devoted to you howcome no input??

How does your FL get through the MOT without a prop ftted?
Click to expand...



I'm finkin !;)

I aint ever removed the props/ vcu cos it aint seized it just dunt transmit drive :rolleyes:

As fer input to this project ! I'm tryin to sort some figures out to send to
Warner Electricery that make lectric clutches :p See wot they can come up with !;)
 
mondo said:
I'm finkin !;)

I aint ever removed the props/ vcu cos it aint seized it just dunt transmit drive :rolleyes:

As fer input to this project ! I'm tryin to sort some figures out to send to
Warner Electricery that make lectric clutches :p See wot they can come up with !;)
Click to expand...
nice one mondo. . . your idea is the best one thus far. . .better than floppy flip mans idea. . .want us ta go all slitty. . .:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Rite...Anybody good at "sums"? i need sum help !:rolleyes: my rave dunt want to come out and play cos theres sum bits missin from me Adobe doofer

so if yer can help ! TA very much ;)

1) Torque of motor -Nm
2) Power - Kw
3) Speed rpm ( i would o thought this were front prop)


Oh! Bollox to this

Have a shufty ! if yer know, or have a stab at, any of the figures for "Torque to transmit section and Environment - just vibration and shock bits,
rest of its pretty straight forward

Tell yer wot !

Have a go at fillin it in and let us know wot appens !:D :D :D

Unless that is ! yer all as daft as me :rolleyes:
Then just post wot yer can on here and we can send it in collectivly;)

I'm goin fer a lie down now , cos me head hurts :D

BUGGER I fergot the link:D

Ere ya go !http://www.warnerelectric-eu.com/lang/ecatalog/spec_form.php
 
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