Hi Everyone
I've tried the pink and orange wires on a good 12v battery, so now thinking the motor is toast.
I do have the door card off so now wanting suggestion on how to release the lock. some have suggested just smashing everything I can see which is very little.
is it possible to unscrew the motor off the lock, I can see some pozi screws.

If you see a constant voltage then something has really gone wrong, yes.

In theory with probes between those 2 wires - on either rear door (as they're driven from the same relay - but just routed out of different connectors for each door) you should see 0V when nothing is happening. When you lock the doors with the central locking, you should see a blip of 12V on the meter. When unlocking, on a digital multimeter you'll get a blip of -12V (if you don't reverse the probes as the polarity changes to run the motor the other direction and unlock).

The fact of being able to unlock the LHR door manually with the sill lock and open it says to me that the latch in there is just locked normally, and the motor isn't running. The RHR door is superlocked, which mechanically disconnects the internal sill locking button, so it won't unlock manually.

If you get a blip of 12V/-12V on the Orange and Pink wires, then the BECM is triggering the latches correctly now and the motors are more than likely burnt out. If you get constant 12V or absolutely nothing when you lock/unlock the doors, then there is a BECM issue (at least - maybe the motors burnt out too) - and either the spillage killed the relay or something in the circuitry which triggers the relay to lock/unlock.

Hi
Checked my wires (Pink and Orange) again from the BECM and I'm getting a 12volts pulse so maybe BECM is ok.

Took my other side rear card off (passenger rear) to compare what moves and what doesn't. the big difference is the feel and noise of the door latch, which is obvious when we have all agreed that the drivers rear door see Super-locked. What I was hoping to see is what to break to enable me to open the door, would it work if I could unscrew the brass/gold coloured pozi screws which I think holds the motor on.

Colin from Hull said:

Hi
Checked my wires (Pink and Orange) again from the BECM and I'm getting a 12volts pulse so maybe BECM is ok.

Took my other side rear card off (passenger rear) to compare what moves and what doesn't. the big difference is the feel and noise of the door latch, which is obvious when we have all agreed that the drivers rear door see Super-locked. What I was hoping to see is what to break to enable me to open the door, would it work if I could unscrew the brass/gold coloured pozi screws which I think holds the motor on.

Click to expand...

Do you mean the 9 small screws then no because the three main screws that hold the lock to the door pass through the lock and screw into the metal plate.

Hi
Reading old threads again, i found one where the author had smashed the motor off, so I went for it and removed the motor and the door is now opens and works on the door button.
Will be looking for a pair of rear latches now, which if I have a problem I will create a new post.
I would like to thank everyone for helping me, without you all, and I mean all of you, my 10 years with a p38 would have been a nightmare.
Thank You …..

Colin from Hull said:

Hi
Reading old threads again, i found one where the author had smashed the motor off, so I went for it and removed the motor and the door is now opens and works on the door button.
Will be looking for a pair of rear latches now, which if I have a problem I will create a new post.
I would like to thank everyone for helping me, without you all, and I mean all of you, my 10 years with a p38 would have been a nightmare.
Thank You …..

Click to expand...

The bill's in the post.