Hi
This isn't solving my problem with my rear door, I keep returning to my thread hoping for a helpful suggestion and I'm getting grown up forum members messing my thread up.

So lets all get back to problem I'm having please.... :):):):)
So to re-cap got door card off, looking at the wires which go to the actuator.
So I need confirmation which wires to place the 9v battery on them to hopefully move the motor from the superlock position.
been reading old threads about smashing the lock out then replacing it, but I just cant get my head around how I would do this.
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
This isn't solving my problem with my rear door, I keep returning to my thread hoping for a helpful suggestion and I'm getting grown up forum members messing my thread up.

So lets all get back to problem I'm having please.... :):):):)
So to re-cap got door card off, looking at the wires which go to the actuator.
So I need confirmation which wires to place the 9v battery on them to hopefully move the motor from the superlock position.
been reading old threads about smashing the lock out then replacing it, but I just cant get my head around how I would do this.
Click to expand...
Do not have access to diagrams on my phone but will be happy to have a look tomorrow on my main computer. Unless you have sorted it by then.
 
myfirstl322 said:
I thought WazzaJnr was actually Tony's boy, they seemed quite happy with each other initially,
this is all very sad amusing.
Click to expand...
Dont know what he is on about unless the petrol and diesel alarms differ, which i doubt. But it can certainly be done on diesels.
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
This isn't solving my problem with my rear door, I keep returning to my thread hoping for a helpful suggestion and I'm getting grown up forum members messing my thread up.

So lets all get back to problem I'm having please.... :):):):)
So to re-cap got door card off, looking at the wires which go to the actuator.
So I need confirmation which wires to place the 9v battery on them to hopefully move the motor from the superlock position.
been reading old threads about smashing the lock out then replacing it, but I just cant get my head around how I would do this.
Click to expand...
Have you looked at my reply in the thread how superlock works? If you run two wires from a 9v battery ,connect the negative to the black wire,flash each of the other wires in turn one will hopefully power the superlock motor to move the blocking pawl.fingers crossed. You need a very long screwdriver and a lump hammer to destroy the lock otherwise.Marty must be busy still have you downloaded Rave yet? Maybe you can trace the wires back from the lock.
 
myfirstl322 said:
Feel free to use me as an 'anti-egg on your face' intermediary why doncha.:D
Click to expand...
No egg on my face I have never referred to anything other than the diesel. But I can't think there is a difference. I have even explained how it is done.
 
Out of interest have looked at video. As thought it won't work if you do it wrong as in video. Discussion closed. You are a joke.
 
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wammers said:
Do not have access to diagrams on my phone but will be happy to have a look tomorrow on my main computer. Unless you have sorted it by then.
Click to expand...
Hi
If you would please, I'm searching around the site for information, some quite old threads
tomcat59alan said:
Have you looked at my reply in the thread how superlock works? If you run two wires from a 9v battery ,connect the negative to the black wire,flash each of the other wires in turn one will hopefully power the superlock motor to move the blocking pawl.fingers crossed. You need a very long screwdriver and a lump hammer to destroy the lock otherwise.Marty must be busy still have you downloaded Rave yet? Maybe you can trace the wires back from the lock.
Click to expand...
Hi
I think I found your thread, does Martyuk mention within one his replies that connecting the wires in the drive position will not rotate the motor to the unlock position, he describes reversing the wires -ve on +ve etc etc....I don't understand his instruction to what I'm looking at in my car (the five wires at the rear door) .
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
If you would please, I'm searching around the site for information, some quite old threads

Hi
I think I found your thread, does Martyuk mention within one his replies that connecting the wires in the drive position will not rotate the motor to the unlock position, he describes reversing the wires -ve on +ve etc etc....I don't understand his instruction to what I'm looking at in my car (the five wires at the rear door) .
Click to expand...
With any DC motor reversing polarity reverses rotational direction. Simple as that, wired one way it locks so changing polarity over unlocks it.
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
If you would please, I'm searching around the site for information, some quite old threads

Hi
I think I found your thread, does Martyuk mention within one his replies that connecting the wires in the drive position will not rotate the motor to the unlock position, he describes reversing the wires -ve on +ve etc etc....I don't understand his instruction to what I'm looking at in my car (the five wires at the rear door) .
Click to expand...
Hi Colin it wasnt my thread it was an answer to a question by another member. This is what happens when you open multiple threads on the same subject, I know its frustrating but patience.
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
If you would please, I'm searching around the site for information, some quite old threads

Hi
I think I found your thread, does Martyuk mention within one his replies that connecting the wires in the drive position will not rotate the motor to the unlock position, he describes reversing the wires -ve on +ve etc etc....I don't understand his instruction to what I'm looking at in my car (the five wires at the rear door) .
Click to expand...
Hi Colin, it wasn't my thread it was an answer to a question by another member. You make things more difficult by posting multiple threads on the same subject. Patience.is virtue. Reading what has been posted you may need to not connect the negative to the black wire but find the wire that carries power to the superlock motor and connect the negative to that and positive to the black wire, so reversing the motor to unlock.
 
I thought id understood that your left rear was not superlocked? Ie you can open it manually. Hence no need to power the super-lock wire. You're testing to see if the central locking/cdl circuit is working...
Dont cut the wires, depin the connectors if you need (safety pin usu does the trick) and/or stick pins in the right positions on the connector to a) read on a DVM or b) provide power from sq 9v battery
Your rear right is a different story: superlocked or linkage come loose...door card off....
 
Also, there's an orange wire, a pink wire and an orange and pink wire - ie 3 different wires... Hopefully now my prev post makes sense, or download etm S3
 
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Last edited:
Ok superlock motor. has two wires. Orange common to CDL motor and Orange/pink for switching superlock. Positive to Orange and negative to Orange/pink will make the motor turn in one direction. Positive to Orange/pink and negative to Orange will reverse it's rotation. One way is lock, the other way is unlock.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Have you looked at my reply in the thread how superlock works? If you run two wires from a 9v battery ,connect the negative to the black wire,flash each of the other wires in turn one will hopefully power the superlock motor to move the blocking pawl.fingers crossed. You need a very long screwdriver and a lump hammer to destroy the lock otherwise.Marty must be busy still have you downloaded Rave yet? Maybe you can trace the wires back from the lock.
Click to expand...
 
wammers said:
Ok superlock motor. has two wires. Orange common to CDL motor and Orange/pink for switching superlock. Positive to Orange and negative to Orange/pink will make the motor turn in one direction. Positive to Orange/pink and negative to Orange will reverse it's rotation. One way is lock, the other way is unlock.
Click to expand...
Hi
Thanks for this information going to try this today, with 9v battery...…...so fingers crossed
 
I'll just copy/paste what I put in the other thread with this same question.

By default the 3 wires to the 2 locking motors are all grounded in the relay, as they are a double-coil twin contact relay to allow for polarity changes.

The Superlocking motor is ONLY used when superlocking the vehicle, it doesn't need to be operated at all when unlocking the door.

The Locking/Unlocking relay in the BECM holds the Orange wire to ground, and pulses 12V on the Pink wire to lock the door normally. If you superlock it, then it will first pulse the Pink wire with 12V to lock the door, then pulse BOTH the Pink and Orange/Pink with 12V to superlock. The superlocking motor only moves a spring loaded pawl (that usually stops the latch mechanism at 'Locked') out of the way so that the mechanism will move all the way to 'Superlocked'

To unlock the door, all you need to do is ground the Pink wire, and pulse 12V on the Orange wire, and this will drive the Central Locking motor back in the unlock direction. You might need to pulse it twice, as sometimes with the resistance of the springs etc in there the first pulse will drive it back to normal 'Lock' and the second will then drive it all the way to 'Unlock'

If both of your rear doors aren't locking/unlocking off the central locking (but your RHR does unlock by pulsing 12V on the wires) then your BECM has taken a hit from the milk spill. More than likely it's repairable - I have the tools to do it if necessary.

If the motor still won't run with 12V connected to the wires to the latch, then chances are both rear motors have burnt out from being powered for too long when the BECM had it's moment and you'll need to replace both rear latches. The problem is being able to get the RHR one open without damaging the door. You might be able to remove the rear 1/4 glass in the door to get access to the top of the latch to break the locking spring out, but I've never had to do it.

Fingers crossed power on the wires will do it for you....
TL: DR - ground Pink, 12V pulse on Orange will run the CDL towards the unlock position. Might need a few pulses to get it all the way back to unlocked.
 
martyuk said:
I'll just copy/paste what I put in the other thread with this same question.

By default the 3 wires to the 2 locking motors are all grounded in the relay, as they are a double-coil twin contact relay to allow for polarity changes.

The Superlocking motor is ONLY used when superlocking the vehicle, it doesn't need to be operated at all when unlocking the door.

The Locking/Unlocking relay in the BECM holds the Orange wire to ground, and pulses 12V on the Pink wire to lock the door normally. If you superlock it, then it will first pulse the Pink wire with 12V to lock the door, then pulse BOTH the Pink and Orange/Pink with 12V to superlock. The superlocking motor only moves a spring loaded pawl (that usually stops the latch mechanism at 'Locked') out of the way so that the mechanism will move all the way to 'Superlocked'

To unlock the door, all you need to do is ground the Pink wire, and pulse 12V on the Orange wire, and this will drive the Central Locking motor back in the unlock direction. You might need to pulse it twice, as sometimes with the resistance of the springs etc in there the first pulse will drive it back to normal 'Lock' and the second will then drive it all the way to 'Unlock'

If both of your rear doors aren't locking/unlocking off the central locking (but your RHR does unlock by pulsing 12V on the wires) then your BECM has taken a hit from the milk spill. More than likely it's repairable - I have the tools to do it if necessary.

If the motor still won't run with 12V connected to the wires to the latch, then chances are both rear motors have burnt out from being powered for too long when the BECM had it's moment and you'll need to replace both rear latches. The problem is being able to get the RHR one open without damaging the door. You might be able to remove the rear 1/4 glass in the door to get access to the top of the latch to break the locking spring out, but I've never had to do it.

Fingers crossed power on the wires will do it for you....
TL: DR - ground Pink, 12V pulse on Orange will run the CDL towards the unlock position. Might need a few pulses to get it all the way back to unlocked.
Click to expand...
Hi
Thanks for your reply...………..I have been out today and tried what you have suggested but using a 9v battery out my mulimeter, Im going to try a 12v battery just to make before trying the next stage.
These are the problems
1 Passenger rear door works on the button and internal lever, but not on Central Locking
2 Drivers rear door just locked nothing works.....

So assuming my motor are burnt out, to check my BECM output with my mulimeter would I put -ve probe on Orange and +ve probe on Pink and if I see a constant voltage with ignition off, then the Becm will need repairing
 
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