I've started to remove parts in readiness for removing the pump but I've seen and read conflicting guides regarding whether or not I have lock the flywheel in position before proceeding, the Haynes manual doesn't mention it but past experience with their manuals doesn't exactly fill me with confidence. Can anyone give me a definitive answer? It's a 2006 td4, thanks
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
There's no need to lock the flywheel, as the pump isn't timed to the engine, it simply takes power from the engine.
You need to get the sprocket retainer tool, as the sprocket needs to be held in place, while the pump is off the engine.
Removing the pump is a couple of hours work, as there's quite a bit of stripping required to access it.
You need to get the sprocket retainer tool, as the sprocket needs to be held in place, while the pump is off the engine.
Removing the pump is a couple of hours work, as there's quite a bit of stripping required to access it.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
You need one of these.
Before using this tool, the inner bolt needs fully unscrewing, and the inner sprocket retainer also needs unscrewing.
Then remove the inlet manifold, and engine support bracket (support the engine weight with a protected jack under the sump), so you can access the sprocket access plug.
Once the plug is removed, you'll see the pump spindle locking nut, which needs removing.
Once the nut is removed, the sprocket locking tool outer section is then screwed into the timing cover, then the middle section is screwed in, which supports the sprocket, finally the centre bolt is centre press bolt is unscrewed in, so it just stops on the pump spindle.
Now you remove the fuel pipes, the pressure control valve plug from the pump, and the 3 pump to block securing nuts.
Once the pump is free from the block, the centre press bolt on the tool is screwed in,
Refitting is the reversal of removing, but the press bolt is removed from the tool first, or it prevents the pump from engaging with the sprocket.
Once the pump is bolted back on, the whole tool is removed, and the centre nut torqued back up to the correct torque.
That's great thanks, I bought the tool and have ordered a seal kit, though I am considering going for a reconditioned pump as I assume there is no way to tell if renewing seals has been successful until it's all back together.
It appears from your pics that you did it without removing the belts, is that so?
It appears from your pics that you did it without removing the belts, is that so?
I have got to the point where I have removed or disconnected all relevant parts and have loosened, but not yet fully removed, the sprocket access plug. There is plenty of space to get the plug out and the tool in but I can't actually see the plug, is that normal? Do I need to either raise or lower the engine to gain better access? Or is it done by feel alone?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's always the gamble. I've rebuilt a few HP pumps, with about a 60% success rate. Unfortunately it needs to be back together, in order to tell if it's worked or not.
No need to remove any belts.
You need to raise the front (belt end) of the engine about 3" over it's normal mounted height.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Excellent , thank you, I should have the pump off tomorrow, hopefully the seal kit will arrive in the morning
Just remember that you never remove the sprocket retainer tool, while the pump is off, or the sprocket falls into the sump, requiring an engine strip down to fix it.
The pump came off without fuss yesterday, after cleaning all the gunk off I've decided my best option is to buy a recon pump, There is a place not far from me called P F Jones who will sell me a pump for £240 incl vat (minus £60 exchange for my old pump).So for £180 I'll get a recon pump with 12 months warranty which seems fair enough. They usually carry them in stock so I'm going to ring them first thing in the morning and hopefully will be able to go and pick one up straight away.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Before starting the clutch change have a read at this and be sure to watch the video at least twice all the way through.Thanks Nodge,
I have seen several good reports about the quality of calderclutch recons so I guess it should be ok. I think I should start a new thread about the ordeal I'm about to put myself through, the worst case scenario is that my abject failure to carry out the task will at least be a warning to others
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
Good luck.
And don't be surprised if the master cylinder fails when you go to bleed it. It's not unusual.
Not quite by tea time, heavy rain stopped play on a couple of occasions but by early evening it was back together and after a good testing everything seems to be back to normal i.e: it's still occasionally going into limp home on motorway hills but so far not as regularly as before.Excellent. It'll be running by teatime then.
Changing the pump turned out to be quite an easy task to complete, helped considerably by good advice of course
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That can often be attributed to a failing or poor quality low pressure fuel pump.
After all that aggravation with 'er indoors' Freelander she part exed it for a 61 plate Clio on Friday. She's happy because insurance and fuel costs will be far less, (I can't believe the little Freebie is group 21 insurance) and I'm happy I've now only got the upkeep of my own to deal with ... and the Range Rover to sort out... but that's another story for another day. (week, month but definitely, hopefully less than a year ) looking on the bright side...It can't be as big a PITA as changing a Freelander clutch, I hope.
... and the Range Rover to sort out... but that's another story for another day. (week, month but definitely, hopefully less than a year ) looking on the bright side...It can't be as big a PITA as changing a Freelander clutch, I hope.
