jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
or place over a vice etc and hit pinion shaft with a copper hammer or ball peen and wood
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
how have you removed inner bearing race?
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
This set looks handy...
16 Piece Bearing Extractor Set Inner Internal Blind Remover Pilot Bushes puller | eBay
And time wise probably about cost neutral with driving over to my mates to weld out the pilot race....
And did I say I like getting new tools?
16 Piece Bearing Extractor Set Inner Internal Blind Remover Pilot Bushes puller | eBay
And time wise probably about cost neutral with driving over to my mates to weld out the pilot race....
And did I say I like getting new tools?
turbominij
Active Member
got my transfer box appart which all looks nice and clean and no damage which is a right result. have ordered my rebuild kit and hd-pin its now time to give everything a good clean.
my question is how have you guys tightened up the bearing retainer nut? did you buy the tool?
my question is how have you guys tightened up the bearing retainer nut? did you buy the tool?
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Oh **** sorry thought you meant the intermediate shaft nut!
Regards the diff nut, I stacked the diff up, dropped the bearing on hot so it sat right down fast, then banged the nut on as quick as I could and used a big pair of grips to nip it up as tight I could then staked it!
Regards the diff nut, I stacked the diff up, dropped the bearing on hot so it sat right down fast, then banged the nut on as quick as I could and used a big pair of grips to nip it up as tight I could then staked it!
turbominij
Active Member
you didnt do it to the 70nm? like they say in the book? 70nm aint all that much more a 1/2" stock rachet nice and tight sort of tightness
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Nope!
Tbh I have done them before that way (I've also taken apart boxes that were loose with just the stake holding it steady kinda made me think it's perhaps not THE worst case scenario) and they have been fine, I didn't look at the torque for it tbh as I knew I wouldn't be torquing it myself, instead I just gave the diff assembly a bear hug (not easy with hot bearing!) and got the grips on there tight as I could.
Figured tight as I could would be best option because there was no way I could measure the torque and I didn't fancy leaving it loose
Tbh I have done them before that way (I've also taken apart boxes that were loose with just the stake holding it steady kinda made me think it's perhaps not THE worst case scenario) and they have been fine, I didn't look at the torque for it tbh as I knew I wouldn't be torquing it myself, instead I just gave the diff assembly a bear hug (not easy with hot bearing!) and got the grips on there tight as I could.
Figured tight as I could would be best option because there was no way I could measure the torque and I didn't fancy leaving it loose
turbominij
Active Member
Fair enough sounds good I was looking at that and thinking how the feck I'm gonna do that up lol.
The preload on the inter seems easy enough and have a gauge for the diff and input so should be fine there
The preload on the inter seems easy enough and have a gauge for the diff and input so should be fine there
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
center diff nut is easiest too place upright in a vice and use large stilsons or similar to tighten,
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if you have a guage reading lbs/inches you set input then center diff ,place diff in neutral and adjust intermediate nut whilst checking input with guage should start at 10-15 lbs inches adjust intermediate nut till input reads 20-30 lbs inches,
turbominij
Active Member
Ok thanks for that seems pritty strate forward
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Subscribed for later reading
