I also tried 'resetting' the throttle by turning ignition on and pressing the pedal 5 x quickly - the engine light flashed, and then I started it up. Seemed a little better. The engine light only flashed once and at the same point after the fifth press.... I hear that can reset the ECU in that respect(?)
 
Ah yes, they are pretty hard to source for less than a couple of hundred squid!
I had to scrap a perfectly good car because Citroen had decided it was cool to design their own potentiometer for the throttle body than to find a way to use a 20p one off the shelf. Replacement of the whole thing was £400.
 
@Anaconda mentioned that you should be able to see the throttle operation in the diagnostics. If yours does show it then you're looking for a straight line on the graph. If there are any spikes you may have found a problem.
 
s-l1600.jpg


Got one of these ... do you think its worth trying this before a whole loom?
 
If it were me I'd be exhausting the diagnostics before trying part swaps.

As I said above, if you can watch the output, then do it. Move the pedal through its range. If no spikes then wiggle wires thoroughly to check for spikes caused by a break or poor contact. If nothing happens with either AND the range of outputs meets the spec then there may well be nothing wrong with it.
 
You can buy an over lay loom which goes from the pedal to the ecu. This will bypass any problems in the original loom, cheaper than a new pedal, if you can get them
 
As you said it’s fine when warm, are you getting a reading from the coolant temp sensor, as it’s probably used in the fuelling strategy
 
Was that logging while you were driving? (Or, what was making the revs go up and down?).
 
It is a lot better. Not sure if that's because the engine was warmed up or because it's so bloody hot today! Feels like there is a little fine adjustment to make somewhere as still prone to be aggressive from a standing start and DEFINITELY doesn't like low revs in 2nd gear...that's when she wants to start 'hopping'
 

Similar threads