boguing · Tuesday at 13:16

tweedandbriar said:
Would a faulty Crank Sensor have the same effect?

I'd bow to others experience to the contrary, but unless it's a broken wire they either work or not.

boguing · Tuesday at 13:18

tweedandbriar said:
Carbon pot?

Potentiometer. I'd assumed the pedal relied on a rotary counter, but if @tottot mentioned pots.

Edit. And they come in two main flavours, wire wound and graphite/carbon. Guess which is more reliable and expensive?

tottot · Tuesday at 13:18

Part of the throttle pedal body

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 13:18

boguing said:
Potentiometer. I'd assumed the pedal relied on a rotary counter, but if @tottot mentioned pots.

Ah yes, they are pretty hard to source for less than a couple of hundred squid!

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 13:21

I also tried 'resetting' the throttle by turning ignition on and pressing the pedal 5 x quickly - the engine light flashed, and then I started it up. Seemed a little better. The engine light only flashed once and at the same point after the fifth press.... I hear that can reset the ECU in that respect(?)

boguing · Tuesday at 13:22

tweedandbriar said:
Ah yes, they are pretty hard to source for less than a couple of hundred squid!

I had to scrap a perfectly good car because Citroen had decided it was cool to design their own potentiometer for the throttle body than to find a way to use a 20p one off the shelf. Replacement of the whole thing was £400.

boguing · Tuesday at 13:25

@Anaconda mentioned that you should be able to see the throttle operation in the diagnostics. If yours does show it then you're looking for a straight line on the graph. If there are any spikes you may have found a problem.

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 13:30

Got one of these ... do you think its worth trying this before a whole loom?

boguing · Tuesday at 13:52

If it were me I'd be exhausting the diagnostics before trying part swaps.

As I said above, if you can watch the output, then do it. Move the pedal through its range. If no spikes then wiggle wires thoroughly to check for spikes caused by a break or poor contact. If nothing happens with either AND the range of outputs meets the spec then there may well be nothing wrong with it.

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 13:54

Thanks, I'll get the Nanocom on it later and put the files up.....

Anaconda · Tuesday at 17:38

You can buy an over lay loom which goes from the pedal to the ecu. This will bypass any problems in the original loom, cheaper than a new pedal, if you can get them

johnlad · Tuesday at 18:25

As you said it’s fine when warm, are you getting a reading from the coolant temp sensor, as it’s probably used in the fuelling strategy

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 20:06

tweedandbriar said:
Thanks, I'll get the Nanocom on it later and put the files up.....

Hi, so with my limited understanding of the Nanocom (only had it a couple of days) here's the readout from a drive a couple of hours ago - can you guys help me interpret any potential problems?

Nanocom Readout

Thanks!!

boguing · Tuesday at 20:30

Was that logging while you were driving? (Or, what was making the revs go up and down?).

johnlad · Tuesday at 20:39

Was you driving it when logging as air flow values are low.

johnlad · Tuesday at 20:40

Throttle pedal values look ok to me.

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 20:48

johnlad said:
Was you driving it when logging as air flow values are low.

Yes, when driving, only for a mile or so.

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 20:51

It is a lot better. Not sure if that's because the engine was warmed up or because it's so bloody hot today! Feels like there is a little fine adjustment to make somewhere as still prone to be aggressive from a standing start and DEFINITELY doesn't like low revs in 2nd gear...that's when she wants to start 'hopping'

johnlad · Tuesday at 20:53

Unplug the Maf sensor and take it for a spirited drive.

tweedandbriar · Tuesday at 20:56

johnlad said:
Unplug the Maf sensor and take it for a spirited drive.

Ha! Like that "spirited drive" ...what are you thinking?

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