Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
As we get lots of peeps asking whether to buy a cheap 110/90 or save up and buy a better one. I thought I'd post my experiences, trials and nervous breakdowns, As a result of buying a cheap?? P reg 110 300TDi defender.
Firstly I bought it in September with 50weeks MOT left on it. Off a Farmer. :doh: bought unseen on Ebay,
So 1st lessons learnt. NEVER assume that an MOT is worth the paper it's printed on. IT IS NOT!
2nd Lesson never ever ever buy a landy unseen. Obvious I know but it's easy to think oh it's got full MOT it can't be that bad. Oh how wrong can you be...
Right back to Landy.
The chassis has had more patches welded on, than a hooker has had clients. When I got it, despite the "Full" MOT it had an Hole the size of a fist in the front chassis leg on drivers side. An hole behind the gearbox mount approx 12"x 6". And a gash in the N/S chassis rail that took a 17" x 2" strip of metal to cover.
No doubt Other holes will appear in the near future
Front bulkhead needed patching behind both hinges and there is an hole on it in engine bay that is going to need doing before the next MOT.
Then there was the front axle. It required.
New Shocks
New Springs as the old ones had collapsed. (due to sitting for a long time with an heavy winch fitted.)
new drive shafts and drive members. (salvaged from my old disco)
new swivels, hub bearings seals etc.
New CV's (Also salvaged from my Old disco)
New Calipers
New Discs
New Brake pads
New Ball joints.
I have also replaced
Clutch, clutch fork, flywheel, and spigot bush.
Clutch slave cylinder
Rear wheel bearings
Rear Brake pads.
Rear prop UJ's
Jobs still to do are
Replace rear diff seal
Replace rear drive members as Mine are fubar.
replace rear shocks and springs.
replace rear crank seal As it's started leaking.
Replace both rear calipers or fit new pistons and seals.
probably going to need to replace the rear diff (Not an easy job in a Salisbury axle.
Longer term plans are
Transfer box has lots of backlash in it and will need a rebuild.
I have sourced a cheap replacement chassis so chassis swap is in the pipeline.
I have also sourced replacement Bulkhead and new front door frames as mine are rotten. will be fitting Galvanised door skins instead of Ally ones.
Rear door frame isn't too bad but the door skin is completely rotten.
I will update as other jobs arise or get sorted.
Cost so far.
Not including the Labour to sort out the front chassis leg and rebuild the front Axle. service items. Or money spent on extras/toys. I reckon I've spent. Approx £900 so far.
Add that to the £2000 it cost me to buy it and it owes me £2900. not a bad price I suppose and at least when it's done I'll know everything has been replaced with decent parts.
Labour costs so far have been £500. due to my been to busy to do the initial front end rebuild. Generally I try to avoid Garages and do all my own repairs.
Firstly I bought it in September with 50weeks MOT left on it. Off a Farmer. :doh: bought unseen on Ebay,
So 1st lessons learnt. NEVER assume that an MOT is worth the paper it's printed on. IT IS NOT!
2nd Lesson never ever ever buy a landy unseen. Obvious I know but it's easy to think oh it's got full MOT it can't be that bad. Oh how wrong can you be...
Right back to Landy.
The chassis has had more patches welded on, than a hooker has had clients. When I got it, despite the "Full" MOT it had an Hole the size of a fist in the front chassis leg on drivers side. An hole behind the gearbox mount approx 12"x 6". And a gash in the N/S chassis rail that took a 17" x 2" strip of metal to cover.
No doubt Other holes will appear in the near future
Front bulkhead needed patching behind both hinges and there is an hole on it in engine bay that is going to need doing before the next MOT.
Then there was the front axle. It required.
New Shocks
New Springs as the old ones had collapsed. (due to sitting for a long time with an heavy winch fitted.)
new drive shafts and drive members. (salvaged from my old disco)
new swivels, hub bearings seals etc.
New CV's (Also salvaged from my Old disco)
New Calipers
New Discs
New Brake pads
New Ball joints.
I have also replaced
Clutch, clutch fork, flywheel, and spigot bush.
Clutch slave cylinder
Rear wheel bearings
Rear Brake pads.
Rear prop UJ's
Jobs still to do are
Replace rear diff seal
Replace rear drive members as Mine are fubar.
replace rear shocks and springs.
replace rear crank seal As it's started leaking.
Replace both rear calipers or fit new pistons and seals.
probably going to need to replace the rear diff (Not an easy job in a Salisbury axle.
Longer term plans are
Transfer box has lots of backlash in it and will need a rebuild.
I have sourced a cheap replacement chassis so chassis swap is in the pipeline.
I have also sourced replacement Bulkhead and new front door frames as mine are rotten. will be fitting Galvanised door skins instead of Ally ones.
Rear door frame isn't too bad but the door skin is completely rotten.
I will update as other jobs arise or get sorted.
Cost so far.
Not including the Labour to sort out the front chassis leg and rebuild the front Axle. service items. Or money spent on extras/toys. I reckon I've spent. Approx £900 so far.
Add that to the £2000 it cost me to buy it and it owes me £2900. not a bad price I suppose and at least when it's done I'll know everything has been replaced with decent parts.
Labour costs so far have been £500. due to my been to busy to do the initial front end rebuild. Generally I try to avoid Garages and do all my own repairs.