If he thinks the head is cracked, then the £1k price may be including a 'new' head?

Still big money, but if its parts too, then that may explain somthing?
 
thanks for the answers guys, no that was only the labour, i asked him why so much and he said that it was grinding the valves etc that added a fair bit, the thing that I am a bit scared is that I don't have a garage , it will have to be done on the road...
Anyway , at least i'll get to know the engine a bit better .
So you guys think that it is doable to take it off in about 3h after work tommorrow ? wouldn't it be better to get it skimmed even if it is not cracked ?
and last thing , I am not entirely sure about the torquing , someone told me to retorque it after 300miles ?
thanks guys
 
No re torquing. You torque bolts to start with, then add two lots of degrees onto the bolts. All torque setting and degrees are written on the headgasket card/ packaging. No torquing again after.
 
Hi,

I am going to start doing my head gasket this afternoon but cannot find any proper tutorial , the best I got was on how to remove it with some half understandable picture . Anyone would have a good link for me ? Thanks
 
Hi,

I am going to start doing my head gasket this afternoon but cannot find any proper tutorial , the best I got was on how to remove it with some half understandable picture . Anyone would have a good link for me ? Thanks
.
Try this.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...inder-head-refurb-how-to.282598/#post-3481087

It is a guide to changing the cambelt, and removing and refurbing the head. Read about the cambelt too, it should be changed at regular intervals, to prevent further problems developing.
You need to remove everything external from the head, ie injector pipes, radiator hoses, sensor wires, etc, and drain some coolant out of the drain plug out of the block. Remove rocker cover, unbolt and carefully remove rocker shaft and pushrods Then you will be ready to unbolt the head.
 
awesome , thanks guys, turned out i was exhausted so just read the manual well, will check your links as well and do it tommorrow , from the manual it doesn't look so hard !
Kind of excited of doing it now haha
 
.
Try this.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...inder-head-refurb-how-to.282598/#post-3481087

It is a guide to changing the cambelt, and removing and refurbing the head. Read about the cambelt too, it should be changed at regular intervals, to prevent further problems developing.
You need to remove everything external from the head, ie injector pipes, radiator hoses, sensor wires, etc, and drain some coolant out of the drain plug out of the block. Remove rocker cover, unbolt and carefully remove rocker shaft and pushrods Then you will be ready to unbolt the head.

Yes I am scared about the belt too since I can see that the landy haven't been looked after well but it is a job that scare me even more, will have to read a lot before doing that
 
Yes I am scared about the belt too since I can see that the landy haven't been looked after well but it is a job that scare me even more, will have to read a lot before doing that

That is right. If the belthasnt been done, or you dont know if it has been done, change it when you can. It isnt too bad if you are careful, and have good tools.

Yes that's the one I found as well , just about removing , doesn't say anything about putting it back together , thanks though

Replacement is more or less the same in reverse. Clean the mating faces well, quality gasket, torque down the head following instructions, then replace everything on the outside of the head.
It should be fairly obvious once you have taken it all apart.

My guess is your head is cracked, so you will need to source another and assemble the valves etc onto it before replacement.
 
Hey everyone,
I started the removal of my cylinder head but ran into a small problem , trying to remove the exhaust manifold from the head , I've got the studs turning with the nuts , is that normal ? It was getting dark so started packing up but will go back at it later. That's not my picture but it is those nuts.
Cheers
 

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Yeh just Unscrew them only a stud, when refitting just screw the stud in the head and then put the manifold on fairy straight forward!!!
 
Lol ok, it just looked weird to me that the whole stud was coming out when I was aiming for the nut haha. I am almost there then !
 
Hi everyone,
a little update about on my head gasket job,

First of all, anyone reading this thread not really confident on doing it, JUST DO IT, as everyone said it is not that hard and I am really happy I didn't go the easy (and expensive) way, with a bit of common sense and basic tools it is not a hard job.

So, I took the head off yesterday and brought it to the shop, they tested it at 40psi and said there wasn't any crack but it was distorted and there was definitely water going into the cylinders. got it skimmed and will put it back in today.

On the other hand when removing it I noticed what seems to me like a lot of oil between the inlet manifold and the turbo, I heard it could be leak from the turbo but maybe valves stems seals ?( I don't really know what I talking about here ).
Anyway, ordering the set for the head gasket I got those valves stems seals I believe, can I change those without the proper tool to push the springs? ( I didn't touch the valves yet) Or is it ok to just put it back like that?

Another thing pulling the head out I got a little plastic piece that fell off out of nowhere, I attach a picture , can someone tell me what it is ?

20160610_125607.jpg
20160611_081729.jpg
Thanks a lot for everything guys, without your help I wouldn't be on the way to have my landy rolling again !

Oh, another thing, taking it out yesterday I was extremely in a hurry because the shop to get it skimmed was closing very early, and I did not place the pushrods in order, how can i know which ones go where ?
 
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For the head bolts, i do :
All at 40nm
Then 60degrees
Then starting again from 1 another 60degrees .
Right ?
 

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