Maxlondon said:
Hi everyone,

So I readjusted them with the rule of 9, they were all good ... I have been picky and readjusted a tiny bit 2 of them but they were good...
Still smoking...
Turning the crank nut I heard some kind of psshhh noise, like depression noise coming out of the rocker is that normal ?
I also turned the engine on with the rocker cover off and seen a lot of watery oil splashing out of 4 pushrod holes (2/3/6 and 7), is that normal too ?
thanks
Click to expand...

It is usual to hear a bit of puffing and wheezing as you turn the engine by hand. Not a problem.

I wouldn't expect to see any watery oil anywhere, water and oil should be completely separate.
And I wouldn't expect to see anything coming out of the pushrod tubes, the oil should run down them, not up,
 
Turboman said:
It is usual to hear a bit of puffing and wheezing as you turn the engine by hand. Not a problem.

I wouldn't expect to see any watery oil anywhere, water and oil should be completely separate.
And I wouldn't expect to see anything coming out of the pushrod tubes, the oil should run down them, not up,
Click to expand...

Thanks turboman, what could make this oil coming out of the pushrod tubes ?
I am starting to really think it could be the timing belt that jump a tooth ?
 
Maxlondon said:
Thanks turboman, what could make this oil coming out of the pushrod tubes ?
I am starting to really think it could be the timing belt that jump a tooth ?
Click to expand...
worth checking timing that could pressurise bottom end if valves are closed at the wrong time, water could be cracked block ,head or leaking gasket or spilled in to engine from previous head job
 
jamesmartin said:
worth checking timing that could pressurise bottom end if valves are closed at the wrong time, water could be cracked block ,head or leaking gasket or spilled in to engine from previous head job
Click to expand...

Is easy enough to check the timing or would it be doing half the job as changing it ?
 
Just tried to do the compression test but I couldn't didn't succeed to fix the tester properly , but from what I've seen I had 500/600 psi on 2 and 0/200psi on the 2 others, but I don't trust any of that to be honest...
I will have to send the tester and wait to get another one
 
In relation to the water, did you drain the block of water before removing the head? It's the bolt, brass I think, just below the exhaust manifold.
If you didn't, water gets into the sump when you lift the head, this may be all you are seeing and an oil and filter change will sort that out.
I must have missed the posts on the head gasket change because there were a few pointers I wanted to make before you refitted the head.
Anyway, looking forward to the compression readings.
When doing this
Disconnect the wire to the stop solenoid.
Remove ALL the glowplugs.
Have someone turn the engine over on the starter whilst you observe the readings.
10 secs of cranking will be enough BUT observe how quickly the pressure rises, a healthy cylinder will build up pressure quickly and reach around 400 psi .
Write down what you find and report back.
Removing all the glows does make the job a bit windy but gives the starter motor an easy life.:cool:
 
Turboman said:
I did suggest he drained some water out first. Post 89. :)
Click to expand...
Yes, I know you did, I was asking IF he had .
If he hadn't , and not mentioned it, that could explain the water.
Personally, I've never been able to remove that plug on 3 engines I've had, stuck tight they were, if the OP had the same issues he may have just left it in.:(
 
Flossie said:
In relation to the water, did you drain the block of water before removing the head? It's the bolt, brass I think, just below the exhaust manifold.
If you didn't, water gets into the sump when you lift the head, this may be all you are seeing and an oil and filter change will sort that out.
I must have missed the posts on the head gasket change because there were a few pointers I wanted to make before you refitted the head.
Anyway, looking forward to the compression readings.
When doing this
Disconnect the wire to the stop solenoid.
Remove ALL the glowplugs.
Have someone turn the engine over on the starter whilst you observe the readings.
10 secs of cranking will be enough BUT observe how quickly the pressure rises, a healthy cylinder will build up pressure quickly and reach around 400 psi .
Write down what you find and report back.
Removing all the glows does make the job a bit windy but gives the starter motor an easy life.:cool:
Click to expand...

Thanks again for your time Flossie,
no I didn't :S, I just empty the coolant from the bottom of the rad, I have got all the filters , I just wanted to solve the problem before fitting them , will do as soon as it stop raining then.
Ok, the glowplugs I just did one by one thinking that if I remove them all I would loose compression from there ( remember I am rubbish in mechanic haha )
I just need to get myself another tester ASAP.
If I do have low compression on those 2 cylinder, could it be a cracked block that wasn't obvious ? Or piston ring ? I hope not ...
 
Maxlondon said:
Thanks again for your time Flossie,
no I didn't :S, I just empty the coolant from the bottom of the rad, I have got all the filters , I just wanted to solve the problem before fitting them , will do as soon as it stop raining then.
Ok, the glowplugs I just did one by one thinking that if I remove them all I would loose compression from there ( remember I am rubbish in mechanic haha )
I just need to get myself another tester ASAP.
If I do have low compression on those 2 cylinder, could it be a cracked block that wasn't obvious ? Or piston ring ? I hope not ...
Click to expand...
The cylinders are all separate from each other if all is well.
Don't worry about anything until you've got proper compression readings.
 
Flossie said:
The cylinders are all separate from each other if all is well.
Don't worry about anything until you've got proper compression readings.
Click to expand...
ok , make sense, haha I am way passed worries now , I am crying !
I am going to try to change the filters now , just read about fuel filter with a little screw underneath to empty the water , could it be as simple as that ?

EDIT : Ive got air/fuel and oil filters but I doubt the air will work as someone ( I think it was you actually ) that point out to me that my air filter housing isn't the 200tdi
 
by the way , I only have 6L of oil , can I add the last half a litre of the old one :/ or is it a bad idea ?
 
Maxlondon said:
ok , make sense, haha I am way passed worries now , I am crying !
I am going to try to change the filters now , just read about fuel filter with a little screw underneath to empty the water , could it be as simple as that ?
Click to expand...
I love your posts!
No, the fuel filter (bolted to the bulkhead)has the water drain and has nothing to do with water in the engine.
OIL filter needs changing, along with the oil, the oil filter is mounted to the side of the engine low down on the glowplugs side . I would say drivers side but yours may be LHD?
 
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