jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
That be fubar then!!
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
I'm working under the 80 tight now!
Think the tranny box seal went 30 years ago on this old box!
On the plus side the rear spring mounts and 99% of the welding is done!!!
Now how to get it off 5 ft axle stands! After I sold the hand forklift
Doh! Better invest in my own engine hoist me thinks!!
Think the tranny box seal went 30 years ago on this old box!
On the plus side the rear spring mounts and 99% of the welding is done!!!
Now how to get it off 5 ft axle stands! After I sold the hand forklift
Doh! Better invest in my own engine hoist me thinks!!
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Ps David Edwin's? Did you get that disco and trailer on FB in the end?? Everyone seems to be jumping for it seems on the face of it a good deal if whoever buys it has enough space.
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
amazed that handbrake still works
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Ah my 80 is an old trailer the handbrake has been seized since I've owned it. Hopefully will be trialling with Killajoules and his 80 soon!!
Daveedwins
Member
went to look at disco and trailer, disco well knackered rotten radius arms bent no bonnet etc this in its self not to big of an issue as I was going to break it anyway! The main problem was the trailer draw bar was bent don't know what they'd had on there but it was heavy!! were the draw bar was welded on the chassis was cracked as well so left it where it was!!
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Fair play I suspected it wasn't as good a deal as it first seemed!
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
My bro had a new LR one was ordered but never collected so as new. Don't think Andy will let me have it tho unless it's for a super good deal!! His way
Just this afternoon got Spydermans galv chassis out and thrown his Detroit locker and 37 inch Ferdima sirocco shod rear axle under it. Remembering good times with Spydie!
KillaJoules
Active Member
Yup Jai, your handbrake looked like mine 
Got it all cleaned up now, I did deguunk the shoes, but a new set costs pennies so ordered them. waiting for a big Paddocks delivery this week
Those steel caged interediate bearings cost a fortune, £38+vat each. the shafy was only £14.
with all these new oil seals and smooth flanges I'm hoping that there wont be a problem for some time. Should I grease or ik the bearings when I install them?
Got it all cleaned up now, I did deguunk the shoes, but a new set costs pennies so ordered them. waiting for a big Paddocks delivery this week
Those steel caged interediate bearings cost a fortune, £38+vat each. the shafy was only £14.
with all these new oil seals and smooth flanges I'm hoping that there wont be a problem for some time. Should I grease or ik the bearings when I install them?
KillaJoules
Active Member
KillaJoules
Active Member
Jai, have you got a small bit of tube that will fit over the drive flang oil surface? While the tool supplied with the speedisleeve is deep enough for the front flange it bottoms out on the rear flange with a 1/4" to go before the flange is in place where the seal will run.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
I'm sure I can find something if not it's an excuse to play on the lathe!
That doesn't look too terrible a clean up that would be grand anyhow
That doesn't look too terrible a clean up that would be grand anyhow
KillaJoules
Active Member
Ahh Delivery day today
KillaJoules
Active Member
Good progress this aftternoon, another 7 hours on the rebuild
I started rushing around trying to find a deeper tool to install the Speedi-Sleeve. I then had a light bulb moment and managed to get to the Plumbers Merchants before they closed and got a 42mm pipe coupling.
Here you see the problem with the rear output flange
A 42mm coupling fitted perfectly
et Voila!
Flange installed.
Then off to the other house where the 80" awaits.
I started by fitting the front flange housing and flange then swung the Transfer box into place.
I have never split the boxes before so this was a new experience. It allows you to carry the parts around single handedly without too much trouble, whereas a complete LT76 is a bit too much for One person.
I then doggedly started putting everything back together. The new intermediate shaft and bearings went in easilly and I slowly worked out. Having the handbrake off makes refitting the speedo a doddle.
Then on with the handbrake and the new shoes. I have to say fitting them to the backplate while it is not installed is as much of a pig as when it is in situ.
Then I tentatively refilled them with oil. wonder if much has dropped out tomorrow.
I did mamage to shear a transfer box bottom plate stud so one job will be to drill that out during the week when I get hold of some reverse drill bits.
I started rushing around trying to find a deeper tool to install the Speedi-Sleeve. I then had a light bulb moment and managed to get to the Plumbers Merchants before they closed and got a 42mm pipe coupling.
Here you see the problem with the rear output flange
A 42mm coupling fitted perfectly
et Voila!
Flange installed.
Then off to the other house where the 80" awaits.
I started by fitting the front flange housing and flange then swung the Transfer box into place.
I have never split the boxes before so this was a new experience. It allows you to carry the parts around single handedly without too much trouble, whereas a complete LT76 is a bit too much for One person.
I then doggedly started putting everything back together. The new intermediate shaft and bearings went in easilly and I slowly worked out. Having the handbrake off makes refitting the speedo a doddle.
Then on with the handbrake and the new shoes. I have to say fitting them to the backplate while it is not installed is as much of a pig as when it is in situ.
Then I tentatively refilled them with oil. wonder if much has dropped out tomorrow.
I did mamage to shear a transfer box bottom plate stud so one job will be to drill that out during the week when I get hold of some reverse drill bits.
KillaJoules
Active Member
Quick question.
When torquing up the flanges; on the rear flange the splitpin hole is virtually out of the nut while the front, the hole dissapears under a castellation.
How am I supposed to lock them?
Should I try ack out with some cheap penny washers?
When torquing up the flanges; on the rear flange the splitpin hole is virtually out of the nut while the front, the hole dissapears under a castellation.
How am I supposed to lock them?
Should I try ack out with some cheap penny washers?
Daveedwins
Member
Remove the nut put a bit of emery on a flat surface and give it a quick rub is the way I've done it in the past
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Im taking the cheap route!!
Getting there
Looks rough in the pic but After another 20 mins with finer and finer grit paper its smooth!
Bit more of a clean up and I'm taking a couple of mm off the back song seal position will move outward which is a few more mm for the wee prop shaft (every little helps)! Just not so far the brake drum bottoms on the back plate.
Bit more lathe work req
Getting there
Looks rough in the pic but After another 20 mins with finer and finer grit paper its smooth!
Bit more of a clean up and I'm taking a couple of mm off the back song seal position will move outward which is a few more mm for the wee prop shaft (every little helps)! Just not so far the brake drum bottoms on the back plate.
Bit more lathe work req
Last edited:
KillaJoules
Active Member
OK found the problem!
After further adjusting the clutch up I still had the problem, but the clutch activates better.
I then pulled the tunnel off in preparation to see if I could get the top off the box without a full seatbox removal and discovered that it IS a case of selector ball wear!
On a normal sloppy gearchange the reverse selector does not move forward to the neutral position before the gearlever moves into the other gates. This reslults in the intelock mechanism not releasing the forward selectors, a little half jiggle into 2nd helps push the reverse into neutral and hey presto all fine.
Another slight issue you can see below is that I replaced a reverse lock spring, the flap is swinging down too low and started to prevent reverse being selected.
I have adhusted this up and it is much better.
I now need to assemble the Cebora and start to relearn my very basic welding.
I have two bottles of gas my brother left me Argoshield and Migweld 5, what should I be using?
After further adjusting the clutch up I still had the problem, but the clutch activates better.
I then pulled the tunnel off in preparation to see if I could get the top off the box without a full seatbox removal and discovered that it IS a case of selector ball wear!
On a normal sloppy gearchange the reverse selector does not move forward to the neutral position before the gearlever moves into the other gates. This reslults in the intelock mechanism not releasing the forward selectors, a little half jiggle into 2nd helps push the reverse into neutral and hey presto all fine.
Another slight issue you can see below is that I replaced a reverse lock spring, the flap is swinging down too low and started to prevent reverse being selected.
I have adhusted this up and it is much better.
I now need to assemble the Cebora and start to relearn my very basic welding.
I have two bottles of gas my brother left me Argoshield and Migweld 5, what should I be using?
KillaJoules
Active Member
My first ever welding on my own without guidance
Not pretty, points 3/10 possibly but if it works then I am sorted.
Not pretty, points 3/10 possibly but if it works then I am sorted.
