DanClarke

DanClarke

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Was out in the Rangie and away from home when the keyfob suddenly stopped working.
Had to open the drivers door on the key and then of course the dreaded "Engine Disabled, press fob or enter EKA". FÜCK! Keyfob response was Zilch and I could not remember the EKA code or even the process.
Walked home and grabbed the spare key, walked back and thankfully it opened up and started with no issues. Went to a local "cheap shop" got 2 new CR2025 batteries and put them in the failed fob but the car won't recognise it any more because the codes have rolled on too far. Drove home and it is out with the Nanocom and "Clear RF memory" (this has always resolved this "either/Or" working key issue in the past). Eeek! :oops: Key #1 is still not responding, and in fact no LED when momentarily pressing unlock. Press and hold unlock and it lights up and starts flashing, but still no unlock. Maybe it is time to contact @MrSporty for a price on a refurb of my #1 Key. :)
 
DanClarke said:
Was out in the Rangie and away from home when the keyfob suddenly stopped working.
Had to open the drivers door on the key and then of course the dreaded "Engine Disabled, press fob or enter EKA". FÜCK! Keyfob response was Zilch and I could not remember the EKA code or even the process.
Walked home and grabbed the spare key, walked back and thankfully it opened up and started with no issues. Went to a local "cheap shop" got 2 new CR2025 batteries and put them in the failed fob but the car won't recognise it any more because the codes have rolled on too far. Drove home and it is out with the Nanocom and "Clear RF memory" (this has always resolved this "either/Or" working key issue in the past). Eeek! :oops: Key #1 is still not responding, and in fact no LED when momentarily pressing unlock. Press and hold unlock and it lights up and starts flashing, but still no unlock. Maybe it is time to contact @MrSporty for a price on a refurb of my #1 Key. :)
Click to expand...
Use your Nanocom to turn off EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM and the car will operate with just the key.
What year is your car? Is the aerial for the RF receiver connected? Post 99 the car should have the passive coil round the ignition switch to re-sync the FOB but it may not work the the aerial is disconnected.
Pre 99 you need to do the re-sync procedure in the owners manual which will also work on post 99 cars.
The LED should flash when either button is pressed, you sure the batteries are good?
 
Dan's is a MY2000 so it should sync with the key in the ignition.

mine did..
 
Datatek said:
Use your Nanocom to turn off EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM and the car will operate with just the key.
What year is your car? Is the aerial for the RF receiver connected? Post 99 the car should have the passive coil round the ignition switch to re-sync the FOB but it may not work the the aerial is disconnected.
Pre 99 you need to do the re-sync procedure in the owners manual which will also work on post 99 cars.
The LED should flash when either button is pressed, you sure the batteries are good?
Click to expand...
Hi Keith, It is MY2000 but there appears to be no passive coil (at least not one that works). Aerial is connected but with Marty's filter in circuit (other key works just fine). Not tried the re-synch procedure, good idea. I am getting odd results WRT the LED with the "open" button (sometimes it lights, often it does not). Batteries are brand-new and are showing 6.1V with a DVM.

RangeRoller dt said:
You got the little spacer out of tape in there?
Click to expand...
not sure what spacer this is. I do have the "O-Ring" in place around the battery cover. This fob that is now failing has been working faultlessly for 2 years (until today).

Thanks both for your help. I will try the re-synch.
 
DanClarke said:
Hi Keith, It is MY2000 but there appears to be no passive coil (at least not one that works). Aerial is connected but with Marty's filter in circuit (other key works just fine). Not tried the re-synch procedure, good idea. I am getting odd results WRT the LED with the "open" button (sometimes it lights, often it does not). Batteries are brand-new and are showing 6.1V with a DVM.


not sure what spacer this is. I do have the "O-Ring" in place around the battery cover. This fob that is now failing has been working faultlessly for 2 years (until today).

Thanks both for your help. I will try the re-synch.
Click to expand...
I have no idea what RR is on about with the spacer. The FOB buttons do fail although it's usually the rubber cover that stops operation. Check the battery contacts for corrosion and that the cover is fitted correctly.
 
20200222_180730.jpg
Datatek said:
I have no idea what RR is on about with the spacer. The FOB buttons do fail although it's usually the rubber cover that stops operation. Check the battery contacts for corrosion and that the cover is fitted correctly.
Click to expand...
It's just a little piece of insulating tape to prevent the bottom or the top battery touching the metal contact strip in the side of the battery holder. Think it may be the side of the top one
 
Open the car with the good fob. Put other key in door, press lock and turn to unlock. Press unlock and turn to unlock. Repeat until it locks/unlocks on the button.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Open the car with the good fob. Put other key in door, press lock and turn to unlock. Press unlock and turn to unlock. Repeat until it locks/unlocks on the button.
Click to expand...

@Grrrrrr Did you mistype? Did you mean..."Put other key in door, press lock and turn to unlock. Press unlock and turn to unlock. Repeat until it locks/unlocks on the button.

Thanks for this, will give it a try.
Dan.
 
I have a 2000 and for one of my fobs I have an information sheet from a dealership
1 open car with EKA code or good fob
2 start and run engine for 10 seconds with fob that needs syncing
3 put this fob into door(ensure all doors and windows are shut), press and hold lock button, turn to lock position keeping button pressed for 7 seconds
4 return to upright position release button
5 repeat process for unlock button turning to unlock
this has worked with my fobs. I did this a few weeks back when I had a fob battery fail and the fob has been fine since
 
Rubberknees said:
I have a 2000 and for one of my fobs I have an information sheet from a dealership
1 open car with EKA code or good fob
2 start and run engine for 10 seconds with fob that needs syncing
3 put this fob into door(ensure all doors and windows are shut), press and hold lock button, turn to lock position keeping button pressed for 7 seconds
4 return to upright position release button
5 repeat process for unlock button turning to unlock
this has worked with my fobs. I did this a few weeks back when I had a fob battery fail and the fob has been fine since
Click to expand...
No need to run the engine in my experience.
 
OK folks, having tried the re-synch in the door process it is now seeing both fobs again, but the unlock button on FOB1 seems hit & miss in its operation (doesn't always light the LED, even though you have felt the microswitch "trip").
Suggests a dodgy microswitch to me.
 
DanClarke said:
@Grrrrrr Did you mistype? Did you mean..."Put other key in door, press lock and turn to unlock. Press unlock and turn to unlock. Repeat until it locks/unlocks on the button.

Thanks for this, will give it a try.
Dan.
Click to expand...

Yes. Sorry. Bit crap on this phone.
 
DanClarke said:
OK folks, having tried the re-synch in the door process it is now seeing both fobs again, but the unlock button on FOB1 seems hit & miss in its operation (doesn't always light the LED, even though you have felt the microswitch "trip").
Suggests a dodgy microswitch to me.
Click to expand...

MrSporty has good feedback on fixing fobs. He has an ebay shop but no idea what it is called.
 
DanClarke said:
OK folks, having tried the re-synch in the door process it is now seeing both fobs again, but the unlock button on FOB1 seems hit & miss in its operation (doesn't always light the LED, even though you have felt the microswitch "trip").
Suggests a dodgy microswitch to me.
Click to expand...
Is the button over worn?
 
Datatek said:
Is the button over worn?
Click to expand...
That's a bit subjective Keith. I have put a new button cover kit on it shortly after I bought it.
I have removed the button cover and even operating the microswitch with a non conductive pointer it "clicks" but there is no illumination of the LED...... except maybe one in 30+ tries.
I have PM'd @MrSporty to see if he can replace the button microswitches for me. Awaiting a reply. :)
 
DanClarke said:
That's a bit subjective Keith. I have put a new button cover kit on it shortly after I bought it.
I have removed the button cover and even operating the microswitch with a non conductive pointer it "clicks" but there is no illumination of the LED...... except maybe one in 30+ tries.
I have PM'd @MrSporty to see if he can replace the button microswitches for me. Awaiting a reply. :)
Click to expand...
The buttons are replaceable. If you have any contact cleaner (NOT WD40) you can try spraying some in with the button pressed and then press and release a few times. Might just clear it.
 
Datatek said:
The buttons are replaceable. If you have any contact cleaner (NOT WD40) you can try spraying some in with the button pressed and then press and release a few times. Might just clear it.
Click to expand...
Only got panel-wipe or "brake cleaner" I'm afraid, I really must grab some bona-fide contact cleaner. Would never use WD40 on electrical/electronics.
 
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