aj1954
Well-Known Member
It might have killed the fob, electronics don't like reverse polarity.
Just put a new battery in and it appears fine
Yes, pretty much everything on batteries also doesn't get enough amps to do any damage
Graculus
Well-Known Member
Later KVM's definitely go into 'lockout' type mode if there are many incorrect codes received in a specific timeframe, it's called 'tarpitting' and is a common software defence originally developed for email servers.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
They have reverse polarity protection.
Graculus
Well-Known Member
The RF receiver just converts the received signal to serial data packets then the KVM compares it to expected rolling code range, I haven't looked at KVM data for a long time - from what I remember the code table and expected / actual result were only visible with a FSE login, which is as long winded way of saying 'yes & no - but output functions could be seen'.
Maybe then I've pressed the button a few times that's sent either a partial or corrupted signal due to low power and that's locked the KVM, which is why it works after so many hours again.. hmm.. that sounds plausible to to the point on Friday when the spare key didn't work.. but maybe i need to keep an eye on the idea
Not seen anything like that. Yet.
I'm still going to go thru the CCF and reload it. It does complain about inconsistencies (5)
See if i can see what doesn't line up. I know from the bmw i had that for example of you wanted DRL turned on, you had to be consistent across different options (i don't plan to change anything)
See if i can see what doesn't line up. I know from the bmw i had that for example of you wanted DRL turned on, you had to be consistent across different options (i don't plan to change anything)
aj1954
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I didn't think it through before posting........as usual.
Graculus
Well-Known Member
It would need over 250 presses to exceed the range of stored codes, it may be worth leaving the battery out of one key and using the other for a period of time to see if one key or the other is 'spamming' the car - none of which would explain the DTC you had for loss of comms to the RF receiver though. The receiver is LR012398 and doesn't need coding, maybe see if you can get a cheap one and swap it over once you've checked the wiring? unfortunately there's no real tests you can do with it not working as intermittently as yours - and TBH, it could still be wiring or KVM...
Update: so far, it's not happened again, so i am following the logic that disconnecting the battery has cleared any bogus data and allowed all the modules to reset (turn it off and on again)
Both keys still work so leaving the battery in the wrong way around overnight didn't cause any issue
Both keys still work so leaving the battery in the wrong way around overnight didn't cause any issue
Bumping this thread as my fathers 2014 Freelander is experiencing similar issues
Background - battery kept draining. would jump start just fine and drive but wouldn't hold charge for very long
Battery was removed from the car and tested, given the all clear
Battery installed again to the car however, keys are no longer working and cannot get any response from the car
Diagnostics from 3rd party told us the RF in the roof was at fault. New RF purchased and attempted at coding done today but no luck at all
I am getting hold of Autel AP200 this evening and going to install the old RF to try work it out myself but any ideas or pointers for this?
We are in a bit of a panic as my parents are away in their touring caravan 60 miles from home, they have my kids for Easter, its now Easter holidays here in Northern Ireland so everything is shut and they go to France next Thursday hopefully with the Freelander and caravan.
Thanks for any help and advice
Background - battery kept draining. would jump start just fine and drive but wouldn't hold charge for very long
Battery was removed from the car and tested, given the all clear
Battery installed again to the car however, keys are no longer working and cannot get any response from the car
Diagnostics from 3rd party told us the RF in the roof was at fault. New RF purchased and attempted at coding done today but no luck at all
I am getting hold of Autel AP200 this evening and going to install the old RF to try work it out myself but any ideas or pointers for this?
We are in a bit of a panic as my parents are away in their touring caravan 60 miles from home, they have my kids for Easter, its now Easter holidays here in Northern Ireland so everything is shut and they go to France next Thursday hopefully with the Freelander and caravan.
Thanks for any help and advice
I don't know about the Freelander, but the range rover and Evoque use the same system. The receiver in the roof connects to the kvm which then connects to the bcm and also the 'immobiliser' module/steering column lock.
The receiver does not need to be coded. What did you do, did it wipe any keys not present, as in my case?
The receiver does not need to be coded. What did you do, did it wipe any keys not present, as in my case?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Might be better in the Freelander section?
Yes but i expect it's similar in that the receiver doesn't need coding
I am just the messenger currently as i havent worked on the car so just what my dad has said - it seems the keys will not do anything for the car. Not even sure if they will lock it but they will 100% not start it
Having had a chat with a fellow owner, he told me removing the battery can kick in the immobuliser and needs to be cleared to get past it first
I will get plugged into it tomorrow once its recovered and see but any further info will be greatly appreciated thanks
Having had a chat with a fellow owner, he told me removing the battery can kick in the immobuliser and needs to be cleared to get past it first
I will get plugged into it tomorrow once its recovered and see but any further info will be greatly appreciated thanks
