The question here is this, has the key ever worked on the car while you've owned it.

A lot of people buy a used fob from fleabay, change the blade & say it just needs batteries etc when they sell the car.

The fact that you have one working key means the lockset thats programmed in the becm is correct.

So it's either a corrupted / faulted key, or the key is not from the key set.

Another problem that commonly occurs is owners swap all the ecu's & door lock / ignition barrel over from another vehicle. This isn't one of the brightest moves to do, but the breakers need to make their money & sell stuff. The problem with this is when the car faults again, & if it's a key problem a key would be ordered on the original chassis number which would then produce an incorrect keyfob, & this is when the problems start.

If Marty has the equipment that can read the transmitted codes & verify them against the working key, this might shed some light on what's going on.
 
Rick-the-Pick said:
The question here is this, has the key ever worked on the car while you've owned it.

A lot of people buy a used fob from fleabay, change the blade & say it just needs batteries etc when they sell the car.

The fact that you have one working key means the lockset thats programmed in the becm is correct.

So it's either a corrupted / faulted key, or the key is not from the key set.

Another problem that commonly occurs is owners swap all the ecu's & door lock / ignition barrel over from another vehicle. This isn't one of the brightest moves to do, but the breakers need to make their money & sell stuff. The problem with this is when the car faults again, & if it's a key problem a key would be ordered on the original chassis number which would then produce an incorrect keyfob, & this is when the problems start.

If Marty has the equipment that can read the transmitted codes & verify them against the working key, this might shed some light on what's going on.
Click to expand...

As Rick says...

I (personally) hate it when people swap BECM's and bits over as it never seems to be done properly - at the very least making a note in the paperwork of the vehicle details it came from... i would hold off getting another key until at the very least someone has hooked the vehicle up to diagnostics. That way you can read the VIN number programmed into the BECM and then match this to the one in the windscreen on your vehicle. If it is original and they match, then buying a new key to your VIN number should come back and it all work with just needing to sync the new key.

If the VIN is different, then chances are the BECM has been swapped - but if you order a new key, then if it is ordered to the VIN of the BECM fitted, then you may need to just get a new key blade cut if the BECM only was swapped, and not the actual locks.
Another way of checking to see if the lockset is likely to be original (not 100% foolproof though) is to try the keys in the glove box lock. Nearly every replacement BECM lockset I see sold doesn't come with the glove box lock, or if it does, most people don't go to the hassle of changing it.... So if the keys you have fit the glove box lock, then at least the ignition, door lok etc are likely to be original.

I'd still get the VIN in the BECM checked before ordering anything as you don't want to spend the money on a new key, to then find out that it doesn't work...
I'm happy to have a look at the fobs when I get back and let you know if they are transmitting codes from the same lockset. That would at least potentially solve one mystery! and would give options then as to the easiest way of getting it all working as it should.

About 2 weeks until I'm back... not that I'm counting...
 
Thanks Martyuk and Rick the pic. I'm not sure where to go with this at the moment, it's been running rough with what appears to be air getting in the fuel line although I can be sure yet. It also has what seems to be oil around one of the injectors with no apparent leak. I say oil but it looks to thin to be oil but doesn't smell of diesel. One thing after another at the moment.
 
ocm1uk said:
Thanks Martyuk and Rick the pic. I'm not sure where to go with this at the moment, it's been running rough with what appears to be air getting in the fuel line although I can be sure yet. It also has what seems to be oil around one of the injectors with no apparent leak. I say oil but it looks to thin to be oil but doesn't smell of diesel. One thing after another at the moment.
Click to expand...

Anything around the injectors is diesel unless you have a cam cover leak. Number four injector can leak from the plastic top any other will be spill pipes.
 
Thanks Wammers, I was working towards that but as it didn't smell of diesel I wasn't sure. The same stuff is around the top of the oil filter so I'm guessing that air is getting in there too.
 
ocm1uk said:
Thanks Wammers, I was working towards that but as it didn't smell of diesel I wasn't sure. The same stuff is around the top of the oil filter so I'm guessing that air is getting in there too.
Click to expand...

You need to do a proper check. It maybe something leaking forward that is being blown back. Leaks are sometimes difficult to pin down.
 
ocm1uk said:
It's only around the front one, the one nearest front of the engine. The others are fine.
Click to expand...

That is the spill pipe leaking. More noticeable on number one as it is the only one with a well that can hold the leaking fuel. Others may leak but fuel runs down engine.
 
ocm1uk said:
Thanks Martyuk and Rick the pic. I'm not sure where to go with this at the moment, it's been running rough with what appears to be air getting in the fuel line although I can be sure yet. It also has what seems to be oil around one of the injectors with no apparent leak. I say oil but it looks to thin to be oil but doesn't smell of diesel. One thing after another at the moment.
Click to expand...
I've ordered 2 metres of 3mm ID silicone vacuum tubing off fleabay, will replace all!
 
Jake Hewitt said:
Really?

Use 3mm i/d silicone vacuum pipe available off Ebay for a few quid. Replace all spill pipes between injectors and back to pump.

That's a direct quote from you...
Click to expand...

It may well have been some time ago. And i have used it in the past BUT found that the chemicals in modern diesel cause it to degrade. Have an old diesel dumper that uses red diesel, it has had silicone on the spills for years with no problems. However when i fitted it on the P38 road diesel causes it to swell and degrade over time and give off fumes. It was mentioned at a later time and the advice withdrawn. ;)
 
ocm1uk said:
Yep same as. Just noticed it. New injector me thinks.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with injector. Bubbles are slight combustion gas leak past sealing washer. A 20p washer is a lot cheaper than an injector. All the others will be leaking slightly also, you just can't see it. ;)
 
wammers said:
It may well have been some time ago. And i have used it in the past BUT found that the chemicals in modern diesel cause it to degrade. Have an old diesel dumper that uses red diesel, it has had silicone on the spills for years with no problems. However when i fitted it on the P38 road diesel causes it to swell and degrade over time and give off fumes. It was mentioned at a later time and the advice withdrawn. ;)
Click to expand...

No worries! Just ordered the correct stuff.
 
wammers said:
Nothing wrong with injector. Bubbles are slight combustion gas leak past sealing washer. A 20p washer is a lot cheaper than an injector. All the others will be leaking slightly also, you just can't see it. ;)
Click to expand...
Do you happen to know the size off hand? I'd quite like to grab a few just in case.
 
wammers said:
Nothing wrong with injector. Bubbles are slight combustion gas leak past sealing washer. A 20p washer is a lot cheaper than an injector. All the others will be leaking slightly also, you just can't see it. ;)
Click to expand...

I did wonder that. I've replaced the pipes. I'll leave it a while and see what happens. My warning light keeps flashing and I lose power. I've replaced the in tank pump a couple of weeks ago thinking it might be that as it was not working. It only seems to happen in the first 10 miles or so, then it sorts itself out. Trouble is in those 10 miles you're sometimes wondering if your going to keep going.
 
Jake Hewitt said:
Do you happen to know the size off hand? I'd quite like to grab a few just in case.
Click to expand...

No not the seal washers you will have to ask at somewhere like diesel Jones they will have them. It is not those causing your loss of power problem. Put diag on it, could be injection pump could be number four injector. If it is failing engine will go into limp mode and struggle above 3000 RPM..
 
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