Knabrock said:
I've come to a similar conclusion, and have ordered a Nanocom. As to knowing how to use it, that will be next weeks entertainment.
Click to expand...

Until you get used to it note EVERYTHING you change. First job is delete need for EKA and immobiliser. Go to Nanocom home page and use the emulator, go through all the different things so you know where stuff is. You will need BECM > Settings > Alarm > select to disable immobiliser then go down options and disable EKA then go back a page and select write settings. You will need to do this in BECM diagnostic mode. So with ignition OFF go to and select BECM, you will after a while get a message on dash "Diagnostic mode". Carry out the actions as described. Then switch ignition on, message will go off and you should be able to start engine. For your perusal. https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/
 
wammers said:
Until you get used to it note EVERYTHING you change. First job is delete need for EKA and immobiliser. Go to Nanocom home page and use the emulator, go through all the different things so you know where stuff is. You will need BECM > Settings > Alarm > select to disable immobiliser then go down options and disable EKA then go back a page and select write settings. You will need to do this in BECM diagnostic mode. So with ignition OFF go to and select BECM, you will after a while get a message on dash "Diagnostic mode". Carry out the actions as described. Then switch ignition on, message will go off and you should be able to start engine. For your perusal. https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/
Click to expand...
Diagnostic mode may also take a while to time out.
 
Even at £400+ the Nanocom is well worth the money. :D
I used mine to set all the options on my Rangie to what I had on the earlier one.
So far it has helped with an ABS fault and issues with security and RF remote enabling.
This might not have cost £400 at a main-stealers, but I own the Nanocom and its there whenever I need it and I have managed to help other folks local to me with a Motronic P38.
 
DanClarke said:
Even at £400+ the Nanocom is well worth the money. :D
I used mine to set all the options on my Rangie to what I had on the earlier one.
So far it has helped with an ABS fault and issues with security and RF remote enabling.
This might not have cost £400 at a main-stealers, but I own the Nanocom and its there whenever I need it and I have managed to help other folks local to me with a Motronic P38.
Click to expand...
It's strange, but since interacting on this forum, I feel as though I should treat my truck (for that is how its used) with a bit more tlc. I've had it 4 years and it's paid for itself in boat launch/end of season retrieve fees in that time, and the only expense until now was 2 new tyres this month, and a new battery due to the RFR issue. It's got a brand new MOT, so spending on the Nanocom is no more than it deserves, and hopefully, repay the generosity of this forum by helping others locally.
Can't wait to get my hands on it, battery is trickle charging to be ready, and I'll post my experiences to share the knowledge. Cheers.
 
@marjon and Gentlemen, I'm now the proud owner of a Nanocom Evolution for Motronic P38 kit, and a P38 that starts and runs! Hurrah!

On receipt of Nanocom I followed https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/nanocom-evolution-quick-setup-guide (included in Kit) connected to my Laptop, registered and obtained then stored my unlock codes.

Having played with the Web site Emulator, I referred to https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/p38-becm pages 16 and 17 for a description of the Alarm settings.

Having reconnected the battery, I waited 30 mins with bonnet down doors not locked until "Key code lockout" disappeared.

Having plugged in my Nanocom cable (unit end 1st, then OBD), I drilled down the menus to P38/Motronic/(scroll right) BECM/settings/Other and scrolled right to check the BECM status which is unsurprisingly LOCKED.

Because of this the Nanocom doesn't display my EKA code when I drilled up level and then into /Alarm.

So, the ONLY change I made was to set Immobiliser from Disabled to Enabled, I then ran through the EKA procedure with Key 1, to the sound of motor whirring and repeater lights flashing. Once door opened I put (same) key in ign and upon turning to pos 3 the display stated that "Engine immobilised press fob or enter code". I then pressed and held the fob buttons for about ten seconds each, alternating until display changed to "Start Engine" , which I did, and it started.

I repeated the entire EKA routine with Key 2 (noting that I started with the drivers door unlocked, and that the 1st left turn out of the 4 locked it) and same success was achieved.

I was going to disconnect the battery today, and repeat the EKA routine before I changed the immobiliser setting back to disabled but it's ****ing down in Mumbles, so another day.

My opinion of the original fault, is that somehow the Immobiliser setting got confused because I unintentionally used superlock, and although I'd used the fob to unlock and then find a flat battery (due to the RFR fault), then disconnect battery (that I'd done quite a few times before - to swap in a spare battery).

I feel that the micro-switches have proved to be ok, and it confirms that I'd used the correct EKA code.

Before changing any other setting, I'm inclined to run some other scenarios to try and further understand what works/doesn't work.

1) Disconnect battery and go through the EKA routine again, to see if I get "Key code Lockout" at all (but not attempting 3 bad EKA attempts).
2) Disconnect battery and go through the EKA routine again, using the generic EKA 1515.
3) Disable the immobiliser setting and see if that prevents it immobilising.
4) To address the RFR problem, I've disconnected the aerial connection from the unit (and YES, it was a green dot @mozz smith, I owe you a cake!). I'll test this by parking the car outside my man cave that has a recently installed WiFi extender in it, which appeared to exacerbate the battery draining issue since installation.

Thanks to everyone who gave of their time, especially @mozz smith who managed to translate what I was saying from Welsh.

To be continued ....
 
Knabrock said:
@marjon and Gentlemen, I'm now the proud owner of a Nanocom Evolution for Motronic P38 kit, and a P38 that starts and runs! Hurrah!

On receipt of Nanocom I followed https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/nanocom-evolution-quick-setup-guide (included in Kit) connected to my Laptop, registered and obtained then stored my unlock codes.

Having played with the Web site Emulator, I referred to https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/p38-becm pages 16 and 17 for a description of the Alarm settings.

Having reconnected the battery, I waited 30 mins with bonnet down doors not locked until "Key code lockout" disappeared.

Having plugged in my Nanocom cable (unit end 1st, then OBD), I drilled down the menus to P38/Motronic/(scroll right) BECM/settings/Other and scrolled right to check the BECM status which is unsurprisingly LOCKED.

Because of this the Nanocom doesn't display my EKA code when I drilled up level and then into /Alarm.

So, the ONLY change I made was to set Immobiliser from Disabled to Enabled, I then ran through the EKA procedure with Key 1, to the sound of motor whirring and repeater lights flashing. Once door opened I put (same) key in ign and upon turning to pos 3 the display stated that "Engine immobilised press fob or enter code". I then pressed and held the fob buttons for about ten seconds each, alternating until display changed to "Start Engine" , which I did, and it started.

I repeated the entire EKA routine with Key 2 (noting that I started with the drivers door unlocked, and that the 1st left turn out of the 4 locked it) and same success was achieved.

I was going to disconnect the battery today, and repeat the EKA routine before I changed the immobiliser setting back to disabled but it's ****ing down in Mumbles, so another day.

My opinion of the original fault, is that somehow the Immobiliser setting got confused because I unintentionally used superlock, and although I'd used the fob to unlock and then find a flat battery (due to the RFR fault), then disconnect battery (that I'd done quite a few times before - to swap in a spare battery).

I feel that the micro-switches have proved to be ok, and it confirms that I'd used the correct EKA code.

Before changing any other setting, I'm inclined to run some other scenarios to try and further understand what works/doesn't work.

1) Disconnect battery and go through the EKA routine again, to see if I get "Key code Lockout" at all (but not attempting 3 bad EKA attempts).
2) Disconnect battery and go through the EKA routine again, using the generic EKA 1515.
3) Disable the immobiliser setting and see if that prevents it immobilising.
4) To address the RFR problem, I've disconnected the aerial connection from the unit (and YES, it was a green dot @mozz smith, I owe you a cake!). I'll test this by parking the car outside my man cave that has a recently installed WiFi extender in it, which appeared to exacerbate the battery draining issue since installation.

Thanks to everyone who gave of their time, especially @mozz smith who managed to translate what I was saying from Welsh.

To be continued ....
Click to expand...
With the car now working, if you turn off the EKA and immobilizer you should never need to use EKA again and in my experience never get the engine immobilised message again. I have 2 P38's running like this.
You should not have needed to do the EKA routine with the second key, the FOB just needed syncing.
 
Mozz is a legend.

Think chocolate cake might be his favourite. Prefer Victoria sponge myself. In fact I have 2/3rds of one sat here now, although it'll be 1/3rd very shortly.
 
Datatek said:
With the car now working, if you turn off the EKA and immobilizer you should never need to use EKA again and in my experience never get the engine immobilised message again. I have 2 P38's running like this.
You should not have needed to do the EKA routine with the second key, the FOB just needed syncing.
Click to expand...
Great, that's my intended end game. Ah!, another thing learned, didn't try just the sync, assumed the worst. Cheers.
 
Glad to hear you are sorted. Probably the best investment (Nanocom) you made:)
There was a lot of advise from some great guys.
Enjoy:)

J
 
Nanocom is next on my tool checklist! But from what you've said, do you require a Windows laptop to use it? That would have to be another purchase 'just for the p38'
 
kermit_rr said:
Nanocom is next on my tool checklist! But from what you've said, do you require a Windows laptop to use it? That would have to be another purchase 'just for the p38'
Click to expand...

It is standalone. The unit itself is something like an Arduino running Linux with the Nanocom software loaded on it. Nothing too complex and cheap as chips to build, really. You're paying for the knowledge and development in hacking Land Rover's protocols.
 
Hello Everyone, I'm very surprised to be contributing to this tread, one year on, but here I am.
For the last 11 months, 2 weeks, my P38 has covered 1150 extra miles (now 98,387) with EKA and immobiliser disabled, access by key in lock that opens all locks (sometimes) and engine starting using key without fob use at all. Pretty much, 12 months trouble free motoring.
So because of lockdown, I've only used it infrequently, so disconnect -ve battery snap connector to isolate battery.
Spending a lot of time in the garden I plugged in a wifi extender (https://www.edimax.com/edimax/merch...bal/wi-fi_range_extenders_n300/ew-7438rpn_v2/) to ensure the wifi is strong throughout the garden. (Last year I believed the extender was the culprit for draining my battery by waking up the EMS constantly)
So last week I used the truck, and knowing I was going to use it the following day, left the battery connected, locked it with key as normal.
Jumped in the following morning, turning key to be greeted with the "Engine disabled press remote or enter key code" message.
Tried pressing fob to no avail.
So tried the EKA entry (multiple times), to no avail.
Disconnected battery to fully charge (desperate JIC), waited 30 mins for the Key code lockout to time out, ran the EKA sequence, no difference,Engine disabled message.
Connected my Nanocom, and it was displaying an incorrect VIN, mileage, date of build, BECM displaying as Unlocked. It did not display "Diagnostic Mode Enabled" at any time.
There was a lot of "Unable to communicate with EMS" whilst trying to access different functions.
At that stage there was nothing the Nanocom would do.
So I disconnected the battery completely held both the terminals together and left it for a couple of days.
This sequence was repeated a number of times.
So, after SORNing the truck last Thursday, having a quick look on Gumtree for suitable replacements, I had time to have another go today.
Obviously the wifi extender was donated to a friend (who doesn't have a P38), battery was fully charged.
On connecting the Nanocom, no message to indicate Diagnostic mode, and I'm not aware that VIN, Mileage, DOB were corrected, but, when I entered menu BECM/Utility (probably for the 1st time ever) I saw the DISARM button above EKA (and empty data field).
Nothing to lose, I entered my EKA, hit DISARM, and to my amazement motors whirred as all doors unlocked, turned the key further to Pos 3 and bingo engine started.
I then checked all the data, and everything was as should be, I didn't need to change anything as both Immobiliser and EKA now showing as disabled.
Ran through the routine of engine off, locking up, unlocking, start engine.
Battery disconnected, reconnect, key started engine.
So, I'm back in the running, just got to tax it now after waiting a few more days for web access to allow.
Anyway, hope you're all safe and well.
Cheers!
 
Knabrock said:
Hello Everyone, I'm very surprised to be contributing to this tread, one year on, but here I am.
For the last 11 months, 2 weeks, my P38 has covered 1150 extra miles (now 98,387) with EKA and immobiliser disabled, access by key in lock that opens all locks (sometimes) and engine starting using key without fob use at all. Pretty much, 12 months trouble free motoring.
So because of lockdown, I've only used it infrequently, so disconnect -ve battery snap connector to isolate battery.
Spending a lot of time in the garden I plugged in a wifi extender (https://www.edimax.com/edimax/merch...bal/wi-fi_range_extenders_n300/ew-7438rpn_v2/) to ensure the wifi is strong throughout the garden. (Last year I believed the extender was the culprit for draining my battery by waking up the EMS constantly)
So last week I used the truck, and knowing I was going to use it the following day, left the battery connected, locked it with key as normal.
Jumped in the following morning, turning key to be greeted with the "Engine disabled press remote or enter key code" message.
Tried pressing fob to no avail.
So tried the EKA entry (multiple times), to no avail.
Disconnected battery to fully charge (desperate JIC), waited 30 mins for the Key code lockout to time out, ran the EKA sequence, no difference,Engine disabled message.
Connected my Nanocom, and it was displaying an incorrect VIN, mileage, date of build, BECM displaying as Unlocked. It did not display "Diagnostic Mode Enabled" at any time.
There was a lot of "Unable to communicate with EMS" whilst trying to access different functions.
At that stage there was nothing the Nanocom would do.
So I disconnected the battery completely held both the terminals together and left it for a couple of days.
This sequence was repeated a number of times.
So, after SORNing the truck last Thursday, having a quick look on Gumtree for suitable replacements, I had time to have another go today.
Obviously the wifi extender was donated to a friend (who doesn't have a P38), battery was fully charged.
On connecting the Nanocom, no message to indicate Diagnostic mode, and I'm not aware that VIN, Mileage, DOB were corrected, but, when I entered menu BECM/Utility (probably for the 1st time ever) I saw the DISARM button above EKA (and empty data field).
Nothing to lose, I entered my EKA, hit DISARM, and to my amazement motors whirred as all doors unlocked, turned the key further to Pos 3 and bingo engine started.
I then checked all the data, and everything was as should be, I didn't need to change anything as both Immobiliser and EKA now showing as disabled.
Ran through the routine of engine off, locking up, unlocking, start engine.
Battery disconnected, reconnect, key started engine.
So, I'm back in the running, just got to tax it now after waiting a few more days for web access to allow.
Anyway, hope you're all safe and well.
Cheers!
Click to expand...

Result. You not got the gen 3 RF receiver then? @martyuk does a cheaper filter fix if not.
 
Hi @Grrrrrr , nope, green dot (V1?), but aerial disconnected as a result of earliest issue with WiFi extender. My fob buttons have disintegrated now, so quite happy turning key in lock, rather than spend out on new ones. Theft opportunities not an issue here, as we're up a disguised unmade dead-end lane, also there's never much more petrol in her to get to the nearest fuel station, thus thief would have to be flush to fill her up to get anywhere, lol.
Main reason for my continuing story is my surprise that the EMS can get scrambled by the close proximity of WiFi, and thankful that the Nanocom will eventually get one out of the poo.
 
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