I'm a bit far away for cake:(
Hi, was just about to order the Nanocom, so I thought I'd read the spec (to make sure I ordered the correct model) and came across "If the BeCM is Alarmed it will need to be unlocked by a specialist before any communication is possible. The Nanocom Evolution does not have the ability to unlock the BeCM."
Do you have any experience of this situation?
I've tried following the routine that @mozz smith kindly sent, but entering the EKA doesn't disable the Alarm (nor shows any indicator flash, or unlocking, whirring etc) , and thus opening the door to put key in ign, or (having climbed in through a rear window) turning the key to pos 1 both set off the alarm.
@mozz smith, am I supposed to ignore alarm (to the detriment of my neighbours) and continue the sequence with alarm going off?
My next move is to get at the drivers door microswitches to see if cleaning will enable input of the EKA.
I'm not beaten yet!!
 
Hi, was just about to order the Nanocom, so I thought I'd read the spec (to make sure I ordered the correct model) and came across "If the BeCM is Alarmed it will need to be unlocked by a specialist before any communication is possible. The Nanocom Evolution does not have the ability to unlock the BeCM."
Do you have any experience of this situation?
I've tried following the routine that @mozz smith kindly sent, but entering the EKA doesn't disable the Alarm (nor shows any indicator flash, or unlocking, whirring etc) , and thus opening the door to put key in ign, or (having climbed in through a rear window) turning the key to pos 1 both set off the alarm.
@mozz smith, am I supposed to ignore alarm (to the detriment of my neighbours) and continue the sequence with alarm going off?
My next move is to get at the drivers door microswitches to see if cleaning will enable input of the EKA.
I'm not beaten yet!!

You could always unplug the sounder.
 
Erm, there shouldn't be any key in the ignition when you enter the eka? Just make sure the key code lockout message has gone from the dash before you start
 
Hi, was just about to order the Nanocom, so I thought I'd read the spec (to make sure I ordered the correct model) and came across "If the BeCM is Alarmed it will need to be unlocked by a specialist before any communication is possible. The Nanocom Evolution does not have the ability to unlock the BeCM."
Do you have any experience of this situation?
I've tried following the routine that @mozz smith kindly sent, but entering the EKA doesn't disable the Alarm (nor shows any indicator flash, or unlocking, whirring etc) , and thus opening the door to put key in ign, or (having climbed in through a rear window) turning the key to pos 1 both set off the alarm.
@mozz smith, am I supposed to ignore alarm (to the detriment of my neighbours) and continue the sequence with alarm going off?
My next move is to get at the drivers door microswitches to see if cleaning will enable input of the EKA.
I'm not beaten yet!!
A BECM in an "Alarmed State" is not the same as a "Keycode Lockout" and is nothing to do with the actual alarm.
A BECM in an "Alarmed State" is locked out but I don't think that is your problem.
Difficult to clean the micro switches as they are sealed to IP65.
 
Erm, there shouldn't be any key in the ignition when you enter the eka? Just make sure the key code lockout message has gone from the dash before you start
Hi, yes, am waiting the 30 mins for message to clear. To avoid setting off alarm I've tried :-
1) Connect battery, wait 30 mins, enter EKA (no apparent indication of success or failure), open door = Alarm
2) Connect battery, wait 30 mins, enter EKA (no apparent indication of success or failure), climb through rear window (drivers window been dead for a while), insert into ign, press and hold fob unlock, lock (no apparent indication of success or failure), turn key to pos 1 = Alarm
3) Turn key 1 to pos 2 in ign, connect battery, wait 30 mins, enter EKA with key 2, climb in through rear window, press and hold fob lock/unlock (no apparent indication of success or failure), turn key to pos 1 = Alarm

As a newb I've been negligent in stating my P38 is 1999 Thor/Bosch 4.6L petrol vogue.

@wammers, I'd presumed the sounder would be buried to prevent disconnect in a theft scenario, I'll look to disable it.
 
Hi, yes, am waiting the 30 mins for message to clear. To avoid setting off alarm I've tried :-
1) Connect battery, wait 30 mins, enter EKA (no apparent indication of success or failure), open door = Alarm
2) Connect battery, wait 30 mins, enter EKA (no apparent indication of success or failure), climb through rear window (drivers window been dead for a while), insert into ign, press and hold fob unlock, lock (no apparent indication of success or failure), turn key to pos 1 = Alarm
3) Turn key 1 to pos 2 in ign, connect battery, wait 30 mins, enter EKA with key 2, climb in through rear window, press and hold fob lock/unlock (no apparent indication of success or failure), turn key to pos 1 = Alarm

As a newb I've been negligent in stating my P38 is 1999 Thor/Bosch 4.6L petrol vogue.

@wammers, I'd presumed the sounder would be buried to prevent disconnect in a theft scenario, I'll look to disable it.
If the car is wanting the EKA code then the alarm will sound in #1, #2 & #3. If turning the key in the drivers door lock does not produce any response, I expect the divers door latch micro switches are defective.
The alarm sounder is between the under bonnet fuse box and the ECU/battery box on the disel, I expect it will be the same on your car. If it has the BBus sounder, it may sound for a short while when you unplug it unless the internal battery has died of old age.
 
Not sure what Mozz or anybody else has sent you.
And door switches is sounding more likely your problem.

See this? I know you know how to put in your EKA code, but this was posted a long while ago by a member who added some useful info to the end. I have it safe for god forbid the day I need it.

Seeing as @DanClarke hasn't seen this thread yet.

Good luck. Oh and have plenty of sound muffling stuff around if you disconnect the BBUS if the battery is good in it it may go off for a while:eek:

J
 

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Hi, was just about to order the Nanocom, so I thought I'd read the spec (to make sure I ordered the correct model) and came across "If the BeCM is Alarmed it will need to be unlocked by a specialist before any communication is possible. The Nanocom Evolution does not have the ability to unlock the BeCM."
Do you have any experience of this situation?
I've tried following the routine that @mozz smith kindly sent, but entering the EKA doesn't disable the Alarm (nor shows any indicator flash, or unlocking, whirring etc) , and thus opening the door to put key in ign, or (having climbed in through a rear window) turning the key to pos 1 both set off the alarm.
@mozz smith, am I supposed to ignore alarm (to the detriment of my neighbours) and continue the sequence with alarm going off?
My next move is to get at the drivers door microswitches to see if cleaning will enable input of the EKA.
I'm not beaten yet!!

You need a Faultmate to unlock the BECM. Seriously silly money though and locked to VIN. Almost never needed in practice. Unlock it and some other stuff sometimes throws a wobbly. Best leave well alone.

Then there's EKA. That can be entered via Nanocom on later software models but only up to a point.
 
You could always unplug the sounder.
That was a lot easier than expected, not the highest security aspect of the car!.
The klaxon connection was under the engine bay fuse box, prise off the metal clip using flat blade screwdriver and then pull off the connector. Opening door (with battery now connected) set off the indicators and repeater lights but no alarm!
Feels like a win :)
20190523_110425[1].jpg
 
I now surmise that I wasn't superlocked as the rear doors can be opened from the inside?
Ok, so without upsetting the neighbours, I can now (after disconnecting, reconnecting the battery, bonnet back down, all doors locked and waiting for the Lockout message to disappear)
Entered my EKA code (no acknowledgement flashes, but it didn't flash when previous entries worked ok prior to this total failure)
Opened door which set off alarm indicators.
Inserted (same) key into ignition and turn to pos 2 (no 30mph limit spurious messages), after waiting for "window not set messages" to clear, turn key to pos 3.
To which I get the "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE", pressing and holding lock for about 10 secs and then same for unlock produces no change.
I also tried same sequence using the generic 1515 code jic, no difference.
so, next is Door card off......
 
I now surmise that I wasn't superlocked as the rear doors can be opened from the inside?
Ok, so without upsetting the neighbours, I can now (after disconnecting, reconnecting the battery, bonnet back down, all doors locked and waiting for the Lockout message to disappear)
Entered my EKA code (no acknowledgement flashes, but it didn't flash when previous entries worked ok prior to this total failure)
Opened door which set off alarm indicators.
Inserted (same) key into ignition and turn to pos 2 (no 30mph limit spurious messages), after waiting for "window not set messages" to clear, turn key to pos 3.
To which I get the "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE", pressing and holding lock for about 10 secs and then same for unlock produces no change.
I also tried same sequence using the generic 1515 code jic, no difference.
so, next is Door card off......

I don't know who is telling you to put key in ignition and press buttons. But if nothing happens when you do, your fob has obviously lost sync. I am really tired of typing this. But here goes again. You CANNOT sync fob unless EKA has been entered and accepted. If you have more than one fob use the same one all the time, don't keep swapping from one to the other.
 
I've heard lifting your kilt and inserting your todger in the tailpipe then pressing the remote can bring joy. We're in @holidaychicken territory here though!
 
I don't know who is telling you to put key in ignition and press buttons. But if nothing happens when you do, your fob has obviously lost sync. I am really tired of typing this. But here goes again. You CANNOT sync fob unless EKA has been entered and accepted. If you have more than one fob use the same one all the time, don't keep swapping from one to the other.
From my own experience of connect battery/enter EKA (no visual signs of key turn acknowledgement)/enter car/put key in ign/turn key to pos 3/receive message "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE", pressing and holding FOB unlock for about 10 secs and then same for lock worked for me and then message "Start Engine" would appear, which I did.
I'm only using Fob 1 now, after attempting the 2 Fob climb through rear window, amuse neighbours routine.
Are there any Landyzone members that can lend me a kilt, and I'll try that if there's a chance....
 
From my own experience of connect battery/enter EKA (no visual signs of key turn acknowledgement)/enter car/put key in ign/turn key to pos 3/receive message "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE", pressing and holding FOB unlock for about 10 secs and then same for lock worked for me and then message "Start Engine" would appear, which I did.
I'm only using Fob 1 now, after attempting the 2 Fob climb through rear window, amuse neighbours routine.
Are there any Landyzone members that can lend me a kilt, and I'll try that if there's a chance....

That is only good if EKA is live and fob is synced. You really do need someone with a Nanocom who knows how to use it.
 
I've come to a similar conclusion, and have ordered a Nanocom. As to knowing how to use it, that will be next weeks entertainment.
 

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