Gents, If I change the standard air filter and box on my non cat 3.9 efi for a K&N high flow air filter will there be a need to adjust the CO2 and or the base tickover setting, or will the system automaticly adjust? Cheers Nick:confused:
 
Gents, If I change the standard air filter and box on my non cat 3.9 efi for a K&N high flow air filter will there be a need to adjust the CO2 and or the base tickover setting, or will the system automaticly adjust? Cheers Nick:confused:


no but if will be of no benifit and will need cleaned every 1500-2000 miles to keep the flow rate high.
 
not sure how much this matters, but some people have recommended not to go down the K&N route because it sucks in hot air from the engine bay rather than nice cool air from outside... now sure how much it matters though!
 
not sure how much this matters, but some people have recommended not to go down the K&N route because it sucks in hot air from the engine bay rather than nice cool air from outside... now sure how much it matters though!

Panel filters are fine.........cones only if you have a cold air feed and remember to remove it going off-road:p:p
 
it does not matter if you have the k&n because it sit in the same place where the original one is and that does not have a cold air feed!

but yes a cold air feed or boxing off the air filter area will improve things
 
Right then gents, I gather that K&N have a few issues!!! Plan will be to keep genuine filter and airbox and change filter on time every time. Thankyou for help and advice. Cheers Nick
 
they start off flowing more air than a paper one but due to the oil filtration design they clog up really really quickley. then lets not forget how hot an RV8 engine bay gets lol.

Oil filtration? - sorry if I'm being daft but I'm not sure I understand that. I thought K&Ns were paper. They are on my Jags
 
k&n are but they are impregnated with oil to catch the crap in the air but if you wash and oil them correctly once a year then all will be ok which what i do and am currently developing a cold air box to help combat the under bonnet heat
 
Mine runs fine with K&N inside original housing. Have attached home made snorkel so plenty cool air, no running issues at all.
 
Oil filtration? - sorry if I'm being daft but I'm not sure I understand that. I thought K&Ns were paper. They are on my Jags


oil impregnated gauze - you need to wash it out every 2k and then lightly oil it again. much better off with a pipercross foam filter. if I had an air box I would just use a paper element
 
I converted from standard to K&N cone last year.
Removed original air box and made an adapter rig to take a universal cone filter / sensor etc.

The filter is not shielded and has not presented a problem (fuel economy up approx 2mpg)

Mind you , cool air intake is better than hot for sure....reading this has given me an idea!

I sell Kydex (do a google) basically it is a thermoforming plastic you can make into virtually any shape, I sell it for making knife sheaths, prior to cutting it is in 2ft x 2ft sheets, with a hot air blower / paint stripping gun and a little care, should be able to at least make a surround so the only air is drawn in from below (Original intake hole) and the front area.
And just before the sweltering UK summer eh!! :rolleyes:

I'll keep you posted.

PS - the heat from the engine bay is not enough to cause it to reform.....
 
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sounds interesting

I converted from standard to K&N cone last year.
Removed original air box and made an adapter rig to take a universal cone filter / sensor etc.

The filter is not shielded and has not presented a problem (fuel economy up approx 2mpg)

Mind you , cool air intake is better than hot for sure....reading this has given me an idea!

I sell Kydex (do a google) basically it is a thermoforming plastic you can make into virtually any shape, I sell it for making knife sheaths, prior to cutting it is in 2ft x 2ft sheets, with a hot air blower / paint stripping gun and a little care, should be able to at least make a surround so the only air is drawn in from below (Original intake hole) and the front area.
And just before the sweltering UK summer eh!! :rolleyes:

I'll keep you posted.

PS - the heat from the engine bay is not enough to cause it to reform.....
 
I converted from standard to K&N cone last year.
Removed original air box and made an adapter rig to take a universal cone filter / sensor etc.

The filter is not shielded and has not presented a problem (fuel economy up approx 2mpg)

Mind you , cool air intake is better than hot for sure....reading this has given me an idea!

I sell Kydex (do a google) basically it is a thermoforming plastic you can make into virtually any shape, I sell it for making knife sheaths, prior to cutting it is in 2ft x 2ft sheets, with a hot air blower / paint stripping gun and a little care, should be able to at least make a surround so the only air is drawn in from below (Original intake hole) and the front area.
And just before the sweltering UK summer eh!! :rolleyes:

I'll keep you posted.

PS - the heat from the engine bay is not enough to cause it to reform.....

Kydex sounds like it could have a number of uses certainly interesting. Back on topic though, why would you remove the original filter housing - K&N make a replacement that just goes straight in. No need to fabricate adapters and housings I mean why make work for yourself if you don't have to.
 
im very happy with my k&n panel filter.

i went for the oiled filter design as i assumed it would help to stop the water which i often get down the snorkel. im talking splashes here, not bucket loads. but either way round its been spot on for about a year now.

might clean it out, might not :D
 

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