Datatek
Well-Known Member
Did you check the NRV seats?
8v_chris
Member
I’ve got spares and I’ve ordered a shut off valve but what I might do is get it up to pressure and then fire it into the bath, will wait for the missus and kids to go out for that one.
I had a look at them and they seemed ok, nothing obvious to me seemed wrong.
Pinhole in the line going to the airtank from an exhaust leak?
8v_chris
Member
I wondered that but I ran a new piece of 6mm hose from the air tank up to the valve block with the same result. If it’s reservoir related then I think it’s got to be the tank itself.
Or the airdryer?
8v_chris
Member
Does the system not shutoff the pathway to the air dryer when the system is off? When there’s no power I thought each element was isolated, my battery is disconnected at present and it’s still doing it
The air path to diaphragm & dryer should be blocked by NRV-1. Look at the diagram I put in post #9 again.
NRV-1 "should" be closed & holding air. A leak here will show at the exhaust port.
NRV-2 is open & passes air to the Inlet Valve.
Inlet valve "should" stop air getting to the main gallery. Take solenoid off, and check for leaks around the valve body.
First places to look (after airlines), are the valves & NRV's. If the inlet valve leaks internally to gallery, then check exhaust valve for leaks.
NRV-1 "should" be closed & holding air. A leak here will show at the exhaust port.
NRV-2 is open & passes air to the Inlet Valve.
Inlet valve "should" stop air getting to the main gallery. Take solenoid off, and check for leaks around the valve body.
First places to look (after airlines), are the valves & NRV's. If the inlet valve leaks internally to gallery, then check exhaust valve for leaks.
8v_chris
Member
Thanks, It was your suggestion that made me look at the NRVs but they look ok to me, beyond a visual inspection how do you tie a leak to a bad NRV in the case of NRV1? I am losing air through the exhaust port, *I think*, after putting a balloon on it and seeing a slight inflation in it over an evening with the EAS relay removed
So if it’s not leaking via exhaust then it’s getting out elsewhere. If NRV1 is leaking it can also then appear at dryer as well because the air goes via that to exhaust.
Start with inlet & exhaust valves. First get a cuppa. Take solenoids tops off & spray both with very soapy water. Then watch the valves for a bit while you drink the cuppa slowly.
If tank is leaking slowly the bubbles will take time to appear.
Beyond that it needs bench test so it can be pressurised & all ports accessible.
Start with inlet & exhaust valves. First get a cuppa. Take solenoids tops off & spray both with very soapy water. Then watch the valves for a bit while you drink the cuppa slowly.
If tank is leaking slowly the bubbles will take time to appear.
Beyond that it needs bench test so it can be pressurised & all ports accessible.
8v_chris
Member
I’ll try that over the weekend if I get my hvac problems sorted. My heads fried looking at both issues, I think it’s just testing me. Failing that a bench test would be good but no one local to me will touch it. In fairness I wouldn’t either.
I'm going the a very similar exercise myself. Did a full rebuild, o-ring set etc but still slow. leaks.
Putting the block on the bench, hooked up to an airline with a tap and gauge T-eed in as below, I can pressurise each bag line in turn.
Pressure up, soapy water, and the leak presents:
It's the thin o-ring at the bottom of the plunger!
Clean, refit with a dash of lube and it now holds pressure.
Putting the block on the bench, hooked up to an airline with a tap and gauge T-eed in as below, I can pressurise each bag line in turn.
Pressure up, soapy water, and the leak presents:
It's the thin o-ring at the bottom of the plunger!
Clean, refit with a dash of lube and it now holds pressure.
