C

Countrymansussex

New Member
Gents, If I change the standard air filter and box on my non cat 3.9 efi for a K&N high flow air filter will there be a need to adjust the CO2 and or the base tickover setting, or will the system automaticly adjust? Cheers Nick:confused:
 
Countrymansussex said:
Gents, If I change the standard air filter and box on my non cat 3.9 efi for a K&N high flow air filter will there be a need to adjust the CO2 and or the base tickover setting, or will the system automaticly adjust? Cheers Nick:confused:
Click to expand...


no but if will be of no benifit and will need cleaned every 1500-2000 miles to keep the flow rate high.
 
not sure how much this matters, but some people have recommended not to go down the K&N route because it sucks in hot air from the engine bay rather than nice cool air from outside... now sure how much it matters though!
 
fishsponge said:
not sure how much this matters, but some people have recommended not to go down the K&N route because it sucks in hot air from the engine bay rather than nice cool air from outside... now sure how much it matters though!
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Panel filters are fine.........cones only if you have a cold air feed and remember to remove it going off-road:p:p
 
it does not matter if you have the k&n because it sit in the same place where the original one is and that does not have a cold air feed!

but yes a cold air feed or boxing off the air filter area will improve things
 
Right then gents, I gather that K&N have a few issues!!! Plan will be to keep genuine filter and airbox and change filter on time every time. Thankyou for help and advice. Cheers Nick
 
POAH said:
they start off flowing more air than a paper one but due to the oil filtration design they clog up really really quickley. then lets not forget how hot an RV8 engine bay gets lol.
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Oil filtration? - sorry if I'm being daft but I'm not sure I understand that. I thought K&Ns were paper. They are on my Jags
 
k&n are but they are impregnated with oil to catch the crap in the air but if you wash and oil them correctly once a year then all will be ok which what i do and am currently developing a cold air box to help combat the under bonnet heat
 
Mine runs fine with K&N inside original housing. Have attached home made snorkel so plenty cool air, no running issues at all.
 
MattMatt said:
Oil filtration? - sorry if I'm being daft but I'm not sure I understand that. I thought K&Ns were paper. They are on my Jags
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oil impregnated gauze - you need to wash it out every 2k and then lightly oil it again. much better off with a pipercross foam filter. if I had an air box I would just use a paper element
 
I converted from standard to K&N cone last year.
Removed original air box and made an adapter rig to take a universal cone filter / sensor etc.

The filter is not shielded and has not presented a problem (fuel economy up approx 2mpg)

Mind you , cool air intake is better than hot for sure....reading this has given me an idea!

I sell Kydex (do a google) basically it is a thermoforming plastic you can make into virtually any shape, I sell it for making knife sheaths, prior to cutting it is in 2ft x 2ft sheets, with a hot air blower / paint stripping gun and a little care, should be able to at least make a surround so the only air is drawn in from below (Original intake hole) and the front area.
And just before the sweltering UK summer eh!! :rolleyes:

I'll keep you posted.

PS - the heat from the engine bay is not enough to cause it to reform.....
 
Last edited:
sounds interesting

Mammoth said:
I converted from standard to K&N cone last year.
Removed original air box and made an adapter rig to take a universal cone filter / sensor etc.

The filter is not shielded and has not presented a problem (fuel economy up approx 2mpg)

Mind you , cool air intake is better than hot for sure....reading this has given me an idea!

I sell Kydex (do a google) basically it is a thermoforming plastic you can make into virtually any shape, I sell it for making knife sheaths, prior to cutting it is in 2ft x 2ft sheets, with a hot air blower / paint stripping gun and a little care, should be able to at least make a surround so the only air is drawn in from below (Original intake hole) and the front area.
And just before the sweltering UK summer eh!! :rolleyes:

I'll keep you posted.

PS - the heat from the engine bay is not enough to cause it to reform.....
Click to expand...
 
Mammoth said:
I converted from standard to K&N cone last year.
Removed original air box and made an adapter rig to take a universal cone filter / sensor etc.

The filter is not shielded and has not presented a problem (fuel economy up approx 2mpg)

Mind you , cool air intake is better than hot for sure....reading this has given me an idea!

I sell Kydex (do a google) basically it is a thermoforming plastic you can make into virtually any shape, I sell it for making knife sheaths, prior to cutting it is in 2ft x 2ft sheets, with a hot air blower / paint stripping gun and a little care, should be able to at least make a surround so the only air is drawn in from below (Original intake hole) and the front area.
And just before the sweltering UK summer eh!! :rolleyes:

I'll keep you posted.

PS - the heat from the engine bay is not enough to cause it to reform.....
Click to expand...

Kydex sounds like it could have a number of uses certainly interesting. Back on topic though, why would you remove the original filter housing - K&N make a replacement that just goes straight in. No need to fabricate adapters and housings I mean why make work for yourself if you don't have to.
 
im very happy with my k&n panel filter.

i went for the oiled filter design as i assumed it would help to stop the water which i often get down the snorkel. im talking splashes here, not bucket loads. but either way round its been spot on for about a year now.

might clean it out, might not :D
 
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