Nodge68

Nodge68

Well-Known Member
I'm after your thoughts on what oil the Jatco Auto box can use as an alternative to the rather expensive (£13.68 per litre) Land Rover N 402.
I'v been doing a lot of research into this on various Rover forums but have found nothing definitive from the manufacturer. The factory fluid is Red so it looks like Dexron and the Jatco auto boxes in America used Dexron II D. Here that was'nt the case as Rover or Land Rover specify there own fluid, except for the KV6 powered Rover 800 with a Jatco in which Rover said Dexron II D for topping up.
I'm of the opinion that maybe there is an urban myth that the box will "blow up" if anything other than the factory fluid is used?? I can't get my head around why this Rover fluid is so special that nothing els will do.
There does seem to be a thought that the latest Dexron III G or H in synthetic does exceed the N 402 Spec by some way giving that the Jatco box is now over 15 years old it's likley the N402 fluid is now out dated anyway?
Maybe some of you with Jatco autos use another fliud in yours? Your thoughts would be helpfull on this.
Thanks
 
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id have thought dexron would have been fine as box only contains std parts that run okay in other boxes on dexron ,gears dont mind what oil is used,clutch packs dont ,spool valves dont ,but would change it regulary ,some oil specs are given so as to leave box serviceless (filled for life)or extra long intervals between ,the jatco box does have a weak clutch basket/piston housing that splits and leaks pressure burning out clutch pack or packs overtime but this is mechanical weakness not effected by oil useage ,imho
 
Opie oil lists quite a few alternatives starting at about £9 per litre, have a look on their website. I emailed them and they sent me a list complete with prices, handy for me as I live about 12 miles from their premises.
 
jamesmartin said:
id have thought dexron would have been fine as box only contains std parts that run okay in other boxes on dexron ,gears dont mind what oil is used,clutch packs dont ,spool valves dont ,but would change it regulary ,some oil specs are given so as to leave box serviceless (filled for life)or extra long intervals between ,the jatco box does have a weak clutch basket/piston housing that splits and leaks pressure burning out clutch pack or packs overtime but this is mechanical weakness not effected by oil useage ,imho
Click to expand...
Thanks for your thoughts. I'v been swapping out the engine so needed to drain the box to remove the IRD. The fluid that came out was black but doesn't seem to smell so i assumed the clutch's are ok? The car has only done 35K although it's now 12 years old, i'm guessing a couple of fluid changes even with a universal fluid type will do more good than harm? Sould i go for DII or D III as a good substitute?
Thanks
 
jamesmartin said:
black wouldnt indicate good clutches ,autos dont dirty the oil in the same way manuals do ,
Click to expand...
When i say black, i don't mean thick and tar like. But it's no longer red and clear!! The box seems work as it should. I dicovered yesterday that the engine oil cooler is blocked so very little water could flow through it. The box cooler is in the same water line so the box wouldn't have been coolled ether!!
So DII or DIII ?
Thanks
 
Aren't there bunches of fords as well using that same box? Check Mobil 3309 to see if it's suited. That works for many Japanese auto boxes
 
My Freelander is a manual but my XC90 is an Auto. I did loads of research into ATF when I changed it in that and went for the Amsoil ATF from Opie. It is JWS3309 compliant (which I needed) but also covers the Dexron stuff.

Take a look for yourself and see what other people say about it. BTW I don't think the Jatco box needs the JWS3309 spec oil - It's very expensive...

Here's the list of what the Amsoil covers (click on "specs" Tab) http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1052-amsoil-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid-atf.aspx

BTW from your OP all ATF is red!
 
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stewart09 said:
My Freelander is a manual but my XC90 is an Auto. I did loads of research into ATF when I changed it in that and went for the Amsoil ATF from Opie. It is JWS3309 compliant (which I needed) but also covers the Dexron stuff.

Take a look for yourself and see what other people say about it. BTW I don't think the Jatco box needs the JWS3309 spec oil - It's very expensive...

Here's the list of what the Amsoil covers (click on "specs" Tab) Amsoil Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF

BTW from your OP all ATF is red!
Click to expand...

+1 on the Amsoil. Used it in mine for 20k w/ no troubles. Went back to LR spec on the next dealer service.
 
ref jatco gear oil.
i did a lot of digging about this and found that the Rover 75 has the same gearbox, rover dealers (they are still around, my local one is also the land rover dealers) sell the same oil in 5 litres alot cheaper than if you bought 5 litres of the one with Land Rover written on the bottle. Go into your Rover dealer and ask for rover 75 auto gearbox oil. its the same oil.
 
If you want cheap autobox oil. Try ringing your main dealer and see if they have it in bulk and will sell it you by the litre.

If they will, take an old clean container down and get a few litres.

Might work out a few £ per litre, since they buy it 1,000 litres at a time.

They also wont be selling alot anymore and so might want to get shut. I think its worth a try.
 
GSF sell ATF-U its listed as compatible and is working fine in my two TD4 Auto's and is about £24 for 4.55ltrs HTSH
 
Main dealers only buy LRN402 FL1 Jatco oil in 1L bottles. I've asked before. My local dealer is quite big and rarely has any in stock.
 
Well after doing lots of research into this I think i'v answered my own question!!
The 402 stuff that Rover and Land Rover dealers sell seems to be Dexron II with some long life additives added as the box is basically a sealed for life unit. From what i'v found out a quality Dexron III exceeds the Rover specs by some margin and is miles better than having filthy old fluid in there anyhow!!
So what will work? Lots actually.
Texaco N402 has now been replaced with Texamatic 7045E. This was introduced after Rover specked the fluid and is considered a superior.
There are lots of vehicles thay use Texamatic 7045E or equivalents of it so there is a wide range of quality fluids available at sensible prices!! This stuff is in BMW, VW, Ford and Nissan and many more!!
I believe it's even available at halfrauds!!

I've been thinking about changing the stuff completely rather than this half hearted half fluid change that seems to happen with these boxes.
I am going to try a different way, mirroring the way I did it an the trade some years ago.
This method i'm hoping will drain 90% of the old oil but should only use 10 or so litres of new!!
First off drain the trany in the normal way and refill with the same quantity of fresh fluid. Next undo the oil cooler pipe and fit a suitable sizes pipe to the pump side so it can be poured into a container. The next bit is a bit tricky and needs a helper. The engine is started and the pump in the box will pump out the old fluid in the box and replace it with the fresh than was put in. When the oil flowing into the bucket changes to red the engine must be stopped. The cooler pipe can be refitted and the box topped up with the same quantity that is now in the bucket minus the bit of red that would come out too. Warm up the box and check the level!! Job done box filled with 90 odd % new fluid without wasting gallons of the stuff!!
 
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Nodge68 said:
Well after doing lots of research into this I think i'v answered my own question!!
The 402 stuff that Rover and Land Rover dealers sell seems to be Dexron II with some long life additives added as the box is basically a sealed for life unit. From what i'v found out a quality Dexron III exceeds the Rover specs by some margin and is miles better than having filthy old fluid in there anyhow!!
So what will work? Lots actually.
Texaco N402 has now been replaced with Texamatic 7045E. This was introduced after Rover specked the fluid and is considered a superior.
There are lots of vehicles thay use Texamatic 7045E or equivalents of it so there is a wide range of quality fluids available at sensible prices!! This stuff is in BMW, VW, Ford and Nissan and many more!!
I believe it's even available at halfrauds!!

I've been thinking about changing the stuff completely rather than this half hearted half fluid change that seems to happen with these boxes.
I am going to try a different way, mirroring the way I did it an the trade some years ago.
This method i'm hoping will drain 90% of the old oil but should only use 10 or so litres of new!!
First off drain the trany in the normal way and refill with the same quantity of fresh fluid. Next undo the oil cooler pipe and fit a suitable sizes pipe to the pump side so it can be poured into a container. The next bit is a bit tricky and needs a helper. The engine is started and the pump in the box will pump out the old fluid in the box and replace it with the fresh than was put in. When the oil flowing into the bucket changes to red the engine must be stopped. The cooler pipe can be refitted and the box topped up with the same quantity that is now in the bucket minus the bit of red that would come out too. Warm up the box and check the level!! Job done box filled with 90 odd % new fluid without wasting gallons of the stuff!!
Click to expand...
sounds like just the ticket mate will be giving this a go my self also :)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
before yu touch the gearbox check the FAQ in the, erm, FAQ section. or yu might just regret it :(.
Click to expand...
every time i try looking up something in the FAQ mate i can never find what am looking for. i must be doing something wrong ? i have read alot of posts on the fluid change of these boxes in regards to taking out the wrong bolt/ over filling / under filling etc. what else could possably wrong :)
 
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