Peeps should post their revs v speed to compare so they know if their auto is slipping or lockup is happening.

v6 in 5th gear when up to running temp:

50mph = 2100revs
60mph = 2500revs (about 2700revs when cold then 2500 when lockup occurs)
70mph = 2900revs
 
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Peeps should post their revs v speed to compare so they know if their auto is slipping or lockup is happening.

v6 in 5th gear when up to running temp:

50mph = 2100revs
60mph = 2500revs (about 2700revs when cold then 2500 when lockup occurs)
70mph = 2900revs
td4 is roughly the same mate. mines does lock up about 3 seconds after the change but in that 3 seconds the revs go up two about 2500 then once locked up sit a 2100. roughly 50 mph
 
td4 is roughly the same mate. mines does lock up about 3 seconds after the change but in that 3 seconds the revs go up two about 2500 then once locked up sit a 2100. roughly 50 mph
You can measure resistance values of sensors and solenoids. Also auto oil change is known to work miracles on the jatco.
 
You can measure resistance values of sensors and solenoids. Also auto oil change is known to work miracles on the jatco.
thats the plan mate fluid change first to see how it goes. but resistance values of the sensors i wouldnt know there to start with that one :(
 
thats the plan mate fluid change first to see how it goes. but resistance values of the sensors i wouldnt know there to start with that one :(
Post 2 has the doc's with the resistance spec. Open up the 2 barrel connectors which connect the auto to the electrics (1 barrel for gear lever position and other for sensor/solenoid control if I remember correctly) and measure the correct pins to check if all is in tolerance. Just remember to check wire colours as you do it. I remember doing mine, left to right was right to left as you look at the pins if I remember correctly.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-drive-1-4-only-192505.html#post2035235
 
Post 2 has the doc's with the resistance spec. Open up the 2 barrel connectors which connect the auto to the electrics (1 barrel for gear lever position and other for sensor/solenoid control if I remember correctly) and measure the correct pins to check if all is in tolerance. Just remember to check wire colours as you do it. I remember doing mine, left to right was right to left as you look at the pins if I remember correctly.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-drive-1-4-only-192505.html#post2035235http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-drive-1-4-only-192505.html#post2035235http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-drive-1-4-only-192505.html#post2035235
cheers for that mate am off for some reading now :)
 
well after reading all that am even more paranoid now :( but am going to change the fluid first and take it from there. so worst case most of this gearbox work can be done in the car ?
 
well after reading all that am even more paranoid now :( but am going to change the fluid first and take it from there. so worst case most of this gearbox work can be done in the car ?
Most failure points can be done in the car. I don't think the temp sensor can though? iirc
 
My Carlube Atf-u has arrived and on the back of the bottle it lists Texaco N402 which is what the LR stuff is!! So i'm more than confident that this is a good quality alternative!!
20121023_175848.jpg
 
Has anyone asked ashcroft transmissions what oil their fitters use in the recon units they supply/fit?
 
*cough*

Just wondering if anyone's got any updates after using aft-u? Is gear selection up and down perfectly smooth and nearly unnoticeable?
 
i use atf u in the auto.the gear change is ok after 5 min when fluid is warm i also use a tunning boxand its set high and on all the time.td4 revs slightly higher on the gear change but work well when towing the caravan,
 
i use atf u in the auto.the gear change is ok after 5 min when fluid is warm i also use a tunning boxand its set high and on all the time.td4 revs slightly higher on the gear change but work well when towing the caravan,
Is it not smooth from cold then?
 
not smooth from cold .dont feel right but fine when warm

i use manual gear change for first few miles then put it back in auto when warm all ok fine

is your smooth when cold then
 
not smooth from cold .dont feel right but fine when warm

i use manual gear change for first few miles the put it back in auto

is your smooth when cold then
Yes. I select drive or reverse and then apply revs after feeling it start to move. When you do this does it make yours smooth?

Was thinking about changing the oil in mine again as the smoothness of the auto down change has started to become noticeable sometimes. Like when your at 50mph and take your feet oft and decelerate to 10mph naturally as an example.
 
ive done three fluid changes since 2010 .
lr 402 first year then the other two with atf u . fluid now cherry red .
but gear change still the same .
i think its a little rough when cold but ok when warm .
i must say my mrs got a punto speedgear auto and the gear change is far better than our td4. and she did had a clio auto also better gear change .
but the freelander is a 4x4 and alot bigger .
i got a bit worried with the gear change on mine 2010 so took a td4 auto for test drive and the motor i drove was about the same
 
the two I have are running fine, on the ATFu the one with the FBH seems to be smoother quicker , but both are pretty good , not quite as good as the P38 but a bit better going up than the 300tdi 90 , not noticed any hard downchanges , have you checked your speed sensors readings (ie the gearbox ones ) might be a resistance variation causing them to not be synchronized quite right . :confused:
 

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