mark666freelander
New Member
td4 is roughly the same mate. mines does lock up about 3 seconds after the change but in that 3 seconds the revs go up two about 2500 then once locked up sit a 2100. roughly 50 mph
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Hopefully someone will put up exact td4 rev v speed values so td4 owners can compare.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
You can measure resistance values of sensors and solenoids. Also auto oil change is known to work miracles on the jatco.
mark666freelander
New Member
thats the plan mate fluid change first to see how it goes. but resistance values of the sensors i wouldnt know there to start with that one
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Post 2 has the doc's with the resistance spec. Open up the 2 barrel connectors which connect the auto to the electrics (1 barrel for gear lever position and other for sensor/solenoid control if I remember correctly) and measure the correct pins to check if all is in tolerance. Just remember to check wire colours as you do it. I remember doing mine, left to right was right to left as you look at the pins if I remember correctly.thats the plan mate fluid change first to see how it goes. but resistance values of the sensors i wouldnt know there to start with that one
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-drive-1-4-only-192505.html#post2035235
mark666freelander
New Member
cheers for that mate am off for some reading now
mark666freelander
New Member
well after reading all that am even more paranoid now but am going to change the fluid first and take it from there. so worst case most of this gearbox work can be done in the car ?
but am going to change the fluid first and take it from there. so worst case most of this gearbox work can be done in the car ?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Most failure points can be done in the car. I don't think the temp sensor can though? iircwell after reading all that am even more paranoid now
mark666freelander
New Member
well thats not to bad then
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Is it not smooth from cold then?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Yes. I select drive or reverse and then apply revs after feeling it start to move. When you do this does it make yours smooth?
Was thinking about changing the oil in mine again as the smoothness of the auto down change has started to become noticeable sometimes. Like when your at 50mph and take your feet oft and decelerate to 10mph naturally as an example.
everton
Member
ive done three fluid changes since 2010 .
lr 402 first year then the other two with atf u . fluid now cherry red .
but gear change still the same .
i think its a little rough when cold but ok when warm .
i must say my mrs got a punto speedgear auto and the gear change is far better than our td4. and she did had a clio auto also better gear change .
but the freelander is a 4x4 and alot bigger .
i got a bit worried with the gear change on mine 2010 so took a td4 auto for test drive and the motor i drove was about the same
lr 402 first year then the other two with atf u . fluid now cherry red .
but gear change still the same .
i think its a little rough when cold but ok when warm .
i must say my mrs got a punto speedgear auto and the gear change is far better than our td4. and she did had a clio auto also better gear change .
but the freelander is a 4x4 and alot bigger .
i got a bit worried with the gear change on mine 2010 so took a td4 auto for test drive and the motor i drove was about the same
tacr2man
Well-Known Member
the two I have are running fine, on the ATFu the one with the FBH seems to be smoother quicker , but both are pretty good , not quite as good as the P38 but a bit better going up than the 300tdi 90 , not noticed any hard downchanges , have you checked your speed sensors readings (ie the gearbox ones ) might be a resistance variation causing them to not be synchronized quite right .
